Anyone has DIY procedure for checking and changing front control arm bushes?
#31
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Originally Posted by bdf
Hi,
I noticed sort of a delayed turn in response entering high speed sweepers at my last track event. Checked my bushings this past weekend and there is a lot of movement with hardly any pressure on the control arm. I was thinking of ERP monoballs as a replacement but the car stills sees some street duty. The Powerflex option seems like a better solution.
The instructions I have read seem way too easy. Tips from anyone who has actually done the job would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Brian
I noticed sort of a delayed turn in response entering high speed sweepers at my last track event. Checked my bushings this past weekend and there is a lot of movement with hardly any pressure on the control arm. I was thinking of ERP monoballs as a replacement but the car stills sees some street duty. The Powerflex option seems like a better solution.
The instructions I have read seem way too easy. Tips from anyone who has actually done the job would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Brian
I'm snow bound for another month ....and have no track comparison - which would be far more reliable than street experience.
#32
jam a pry bar between the control arm and the body, see how flex you get and how easily. mine were so bad the control arm moved enought to tell they were done. replcaed with ERP inserts no more rubber.
#33
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Originally Posted by AndyT
jam a pry bar between the control arm and the body, see how flex you get and how easily. mine were so bad the control arm moved enought to tell they were done. replcaed with ERP inserts no more rubber.
Andy,
How much were the ERP bushings and who did you get them from?
Also is the ride significantly harsher with them vs. the stock ones?
Thanks
#34
Geoff - Did you use the cut the metal sleeve and punch out method?
Garth - I saw that thread. Sounds interesting but I don't have enough time between now and my next track event to test it.
Andy - Did the crowbar test. The right front was so bad I could have got movement with a toothpick stuck in there! I was originally going to put in monoballs but I have read that even limited street use would quickly destroy them.
Garth - I saw that thread. Sounds interesting but I don't have enough time between now and my next track event to test it.
Andy - Did the crowbar test. The right front was so bad I could have got movement with a toothpick stuck in there! I was originally going to put in monoballs but I have read that even limited street use would quickly destroy them.
#36
I saw those also but looks like they only make them for the rear of the arm.. If they had something for the fronts I would have went with them. I believe they are from the same guys who make the replacement control arms for 944s.
The fronts were actually a lot worse than the rears on my car.
The fronts were actually a lot worse than the rears on my car.
#37
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I am in the process of writing a comprehensive DIY on changing these lower front A-arm bushings. For the time being, anyone is welcome to contact me and I will walk you through the process. Or send me the a-arms, and I will do it for you.
I think many will be amazed at the difference this makes to the car, mostly while on the brakes!!
I think many will be amazed at the difference this makes to the car, mostly while on the brakes!!
#39
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
I am in the process of writing a comprehensive DIY on changing these lower front A-arm bushings. For the time being, anyone is welcome to contact me and I will walk you through the process. Or send me the a-arms, and I will do it for you.
I think many will be amazed at the difference this makes to the car, mostly while on the brakes!!
I think many will be amazed at the difference this makes to the car, mostly while on the brakes!!
#40
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When I sorted out the removing method for the standard bushes it came down to getting the rubber center out first. On some bushes the rubber center just falls out and others need to have the rubber drilled through the void holes and then the rubber rips out.
To get the steel sleeve thats left out seems to be best if two cuts are done about 120 degrees apart. Be careful not to go through the steel into the wishbone. I used a variety of punch/drifts to get the 120 degree sleeve section out and the rest falls out.
The best approach is not to hurry . After a few wishbones I reckoned an hour for front and rear per wishbone.
Phil Raby and I did an article in 911 and Porsche World which gives the pictures.
Maybe the write up by Chris will get into a lot more detail .
Geoff
To get the steel sleeve thats left out seems to be best if two cuts are done about 120 degrees apart. Be careful not to go through the steel into the wishbone. I used a variety of punch/drifts to get the 120 degree sleeve section out and the rest falls out.
The best approach is not to hurry . After a few wishbones I reckoned an hour for front and rear per wishbone.
Phil Raby and I did an article in 911 and Porsche World which gives the pictures.
Maybe the write up by Chris will get into a lot more detail .
Geoff
#41
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This idea might be a little far out - I replaced the factory rubber and steel sleeved bushings on 924 Turbo A-arms years ago. If the 993s are similar, my method might work - although it's unorthodox.
I cut each side of the steel sleeve, then took a butane torch and lit the rubber on fire. After about thirty seconds, I was able to sling off the whole melted gooey bushing.
No, I'm not kidding. Went very quickly.
I cut each side of the steel sleeve, then took a butane torch and lit the rubber on fire. After about thirty seconds, I was able to sling off the whole melted gooey bushing.
No, I'm not kidding. Went very quickly.
#42
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Originally Posted by black ice
This idea might be a little far out - I replaced the factory rubber and steel sleeved bushings on 924 Turbo A-arms years ago. If the 993s are similar, my method might work - although it's unorthodox.
I cut each side of the steel sleeve, then took a butane torch and lit the rubber on fire. After about thirty seconds, I was able to sling off the whole melted gooey bushing.
No, I'm not kidding. Went very quickly.
I cut each side of the steel sleeve, then took a butane torch and lit the rubber on fire. After about thirty seconds, I was able to sling off the whole melted gooey bushing.
No, I'm not kidding. Went very quickly.
#43
I used the torch method on a 73 911. The arms are steel so I wasn't too concerned about heating them. The rubber gave up long before the arms got hot enough to do any damage. I don't kow what, if anything, the torch would do to aluminum.
Anybody?
Anybody?
#44
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Originally Posted by bdf
I used the torch method on a 73 911. The arms are steel so I wasn't too concerned about heating them. The rubber gave up long before the arms got hot enough to do any damage. I don't kow what, if anything, the torch would do to aluminum.
Anybody?
Anybody?
Sitting at an airport at 5 in the morning - -maybe I'll start writing that DIY
#45
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Gas torches and burning rubber in an aluminium arm that your life depends on !!!!!!!!!! Not recommended under any circumstances , ever, at all .
Geoff
Geoff