nile13

I need to program an alarm box to work with a non-immobilizer drive block enabled car. A local dealer wants an hour labor to program the box. Which is $120, which I find ridiculous.

Can someone tell me from experience whether Bosch Hammer is the tool that's needed for programming and if the independents will have the right tool. If someone knows an independent with the right tools in Boston area, please let me know.

JasonAndreas

If you were about 3 hours west I could do it but seeing how you're closer to Boston I would try Jerry @ EPE in Natick about 20 minutes from the Newton tollbooths. If you do hit him up please say hi! for me.

nile13

I'll actually be visiting my sightly nose-rearranged autocross car tomorrow... about 100 ft from Jerry's shop. I'll stop and ask him. Will try to say hi.

Jason, what do you thik teh charge be for something like this? Half and hour?

JasonAndreas

I really don't know what they will charge but I can tell you that it will take 45 seconds for the Bosch Hammer to interrogate all the control units and then an additional (maybe) 30 seconds to go through the menus and select the vehicle type, country code and then turn off the remote (immobilizer) function.

nile13

Jason, thanks.

Out of curiosity, where does Hammer connect to the car? Do you think that the OBD boards that are flying around would actually have the functionality to programm the central locking/alarm box?

Thnaks in advance!

JasonAndreas

The 19-pin circular connector in the earlier models is located on the passenger (right) side footwell, hidden behind a plastic cap right near the door. The rectangular OBD2 connector on the later models is on the drivers side under the dash located on the center console (behind a plastic cap).


Doug's software doesn't support it but could very easily.

nile13

OK, thanks again, Jason!

I'll try Jerry tomorrow. Have to get the clutch estimate anyway (with or without LFW, more decisions).

nota_troll

This won't do the trick?

Remote DIY

JasonAndreas

Porsches uses the same replacement alarm control unit for the 964 and 993 and for different countries. The two models and the different countries all have different requirements so when you buy a new alarm control unit you have to program in the vehicle type, country code and whether or not the immobilizer is used before it will function properly. The p-car link is just for programming the remote.

nile13

What I find interesting is that my car (April 94 bult) appears to have drive block and no immobilizer. I believe that the other alarm box I got is from a 95 model year as well, but probably have no drive block functionality set (my car doesn't start with that box installed).

Am I assuming correctly that my car indeed has drive block? Is Hammer the only way to set the drie block ON in the new box?

Lorenfb

"What I find interesting is that my car (April 94 bult) appears to have drive block and no immobilizer"

Drive Block functionality requires an immobilizer! The immobilizer not only interfaces with alarm unit
(locks the doors, activates the horn & lights) but disables the starter & DME ECM.

nile13

Wait, wait, wait. I do not have immobilizer in my car. However, when the alarm box is removed from my car, the car cranks but does not start. How would that be explained?

nile13

Jason, we tried to use Hammer today with Jerry. The alarm functionality is a little criptic. We could nto make the second box to work.

Could I bug you to, perhaps, tell me the exact settings that I need?

Lorenfb

"Wait, wait, wait. I do not have immobilizer in my car. However, when the alarm box is removed from my car, the car cranks but does not start. How would that be explained?"

1. And the car is what??????
USA, ROW
2. Factory alarm alone or with another alarm?
3. Has the wiring been changed?
4. The alarm unit PN? There's a 3 different units.
5. What's the DME ECM PN in the vehicle? Bosch PN please.
6. Modified DME?

Bottom line: If your tech is competent it's a trivial effort to do the setup!

"A local dealer wants an hour labor to program the box. Which is $120, which I find ridiculous."

A bargain, especially when those involved lack the expertise which could result
in damaged ECUs.

nile13

The car is a '95 993 built in April of 94. The car was sold and is used in US, so I'm assuming it's not a ROW car.

The alarm box I have is a 01 part number. The second box I'm trying is a 00 part number. The no-start condition exists when I take my 01 box out. It is the same condition, whether the 00 box is connected or not.

There is only factory alarm, no aftermarket alarms.

The DME, I believe is a 163.

The wiring has not been changed other than the standard 993 harness recall was performed some years ago.