1st DIY Oil Change & Ramps
08-26-2006, 06:41 PM
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1st DIY Oil Change & Ramps
Did my first DIY oil change on the Cab this weekend. Just in case there’s anyone else left to tackle it for the first time, here’s a few comments to add to the wealth of forum and p-car.com info.
First, having the car 8” off the ground with my “new” drive-on ramps made the task a heck of a lot easier. Took std plastic ramps and built them up with ¼” plywood steps so I can drive off the front set onto home-made platforms (2”x8” joists & 5/8” plywood). Once the front wheels are on the flat you can drive up the back ramps until you reach the top of those (then stop!) Chock the wheels, take the front ramps and extra platforms away and you have great access underneath. It even made taking a wheel off easier.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/from_back1.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/front_wheel1.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/rear_wheel1.jpg
Interesting learning from the intense R&D that went into this! A car does not like to be climbing 2 independent gradients (one front, one back) at the same time. I guess it’s all about the weight on the driving wheels not acting perpendicular to the plane. Also, definitely a 2-person job to get car into position and yes, I need to add “stops”.
Back to the oil change…
1) Loosened the 2 drain plugs and 2 filters (left them hand-tight) when the engine was cold – Less fumbling around later when the engine is hot.
2) ALMOST overflowed the top of the black plastic oil collection pan (type with hole in center of lid) when draining the tank, especially when the dropped drain plug wanted sit on top of the drain hole. Be prepared for oil to splatter everywhere.
3) The small filter is a cinch providing you take off the long orange heater hose and ventilation door … and use a three prong filter wrench (slide it in from the side then turn with a 10” socket
extension from below. This enables you not to have to remove the oil return line.
4) Next time I’ll put a diaper around the oil-filler neck!
Question?
What tool set-up can get a torque wrench in place to tighten up the engine drain plug without removing the left heat exchanger?
Cheers,
First, having the car 8” off the ground with my “new” drive-on ramps made the task a heck of a lot easier. Took std plastic ramps and built them up with ¼” plywood steps so I can drive off the front set onto home-made platforms (2”x8” joists & 5/8” plywood). Once the front wheels are on the flat you can drive up the back ramps until you reach the top of those (then stop!) Chock the wheels, take the front ramps and extra platforms away and you have great access underneath. It even made taking a wheel off easier.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/from_back1.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/front_wheel1.jpg
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/rear_wheel1.jpg
Interesting learning from the intense R&D that went into this! A car does not like to be climbing 2 independent gradients (one front, one back) at the same time. I guess it’s all about the weight on the driving wheels not acting perpendicular to the plane. Also, definitely a 2-person job to get car into position and yes, I need to add “stops”.
Back to the oil change…
1) Loosened the 2 drain plugs and 2 filters (left them hand-tight) when the engine was cold – Less fumbling around later when the engine is hot.
2) ALMOST overflowed the top of the black plastic oil collection pan (type with hole in center of lid) when draining the tank, especially when the dropped drain plug wanted sit on top of the drain hole. Be prepared for oil to splatter everywhere.
3) The small filter is a cinch providing you take off the long orange heater hose and ventilation door … and use a three prong filter wrench (slide it in from the side then turn with a 10” socket
extension from below. This enables you not to have to remove the oil return line.
4) Next time I’ll put a diaper around the oil-filler neck!
Question?
What tool set-up can get a torque wrench in place to tighten up the engine drain plug without removing the left heat exchanger?
Cheers,
08-26-2006, 11:31 PM
#3
Seared
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Tony,
Great idea - good job on the platforms. Rhino ramps are so much nicer than the old clangy, rusting steel beasts.
As for the case drain plug, I just tightened mine 'snug'. No need to reef on it. I presume the proper crow's foot head may work?
Andreas
Great idea - good job on the platforms. Rhino ramps are so much nicer than the old clangy, rusting steel beasts.
As for the case drain plug, I just tightened mine 'snug'. No need to reef on it. I presume the proper crow's foot head may work?
Andreas
08-26-2006, 11:53 PM
#4
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I have changed my oil 4 times now. I do not remove the right rear wheel nor do I put it on ramps. I'll jack up one side to get under it to remove the small filter and engine oil plug, then let in down to drain.
