Chassis Lift Point Pad - Repair
#1
Chassis Lift Point Pad - Repair
It may be worth checking your front lift pads for broken welds ...
It has been difficult to locate and use the left front jack point/chassis lift point on my car as it was recessed slightly above the plastic body work. The first time a small jack was used vs a large floor jack or a hoist, I noticed the pad buckle and move ... not a good sign!
When inspected, it was clear that the primary spot welds holding the pad to the body had separated some time ago, and as a result, the pad was progressively collapsing on itself - so we repaired it today to be better than new. Due to the abysmal weld quality from manufacture, it may well worth checking yours too.
The repair involved getting the car on a hoist and then supporting the LF suspension with a transmission jack to allow the hoist arm to swing away. We then unbolted the plastic body parts and drilled out the remaining spot welds. With a vise, hammer (BFH ), and pry bars, the pad was restored to correct configuration and prepared for welding. Disconnecting the battery to protect the computers, we also hung heat shields over the aluminium AC lines and MIG'ed it back in place. With some rust protective paint to close the surgery, all plactic screwed back into place ... done!
Absolutely a relief to have this corrected, as we count on this piece to keep the car safely in the air ...
It has been difficult to locate and use the left front jack point/chassis lift point on my car as it was recessed slightly above the plastic body work. The first time a small jack was used vs a large floor jack or a hoist, I noticed the pad buckle and move ... not a good sign!
When inspected, it was clear that the primary spot welds holding the pad to the body had separated some time ago, and as a result, the pad was progressively collapsing on itself - so we repaired it today to be better than new. Due to the abysmal weld quality from manufacture, it may well worth checking yours too.
The repair involved getting the car on a hoist and then supporting the LF suspension with a transmission jack to allow the hoist arm to swing away. We then unbolted the plastic body parts and drilled out the remaining spot welds. With a vise, hammer (BFH ), and pry bars, the pad was restored to correct configuration and prepared for welding. Disconnecting the battery to protect the computers, we also hung heat shields over the aluminium AC lines and MIG'ed it back in place. With some rust protective paint to close the surgery, all plactic screwed back into place ... done!
Absolutely a relief to have this corrected, as we count on this piece to keep the car safely in the air ...
#3
Originally Posted by 993inNC
Pics?
The bracket is not as big as your fist - and is welded to a rounded front corner of the rocker panel just behind the front wheel: a pretty Mickey Mouse affair IMHO, for the rear tab is only 22 ga. metal.
#4
Originally Posted by Garth S
a pretty Mickey Mouse affair IMHO