faster

any of you that have replaced the rear suspension lately had a problem with the rear left lower eccentric bolt. i have it rotated to the greatest clearance and have the engine raised as high as i think its safe to do, but still need some more clearance. anybody run into the same issue? any creative solutions? hate to indent that exhaust to get the job done. thanks

Robin 993DX

On few occasion I have noticed that there is a hammered in area near the heat exchanger body in order to clear the bolt.

yeah, the Irish screw driver.... "Hammer"

ppressle

Have you loosened the engine mounts? I had to do that to get that bolt out. Didn't need to dent anything.

Brave Heart

All the guys (including myself) that were part of the recent Suspension GB would have run into this ( If they did the work themselves ) I remember Jeff ( Intheair) gave a tip about this in his fantastic instruction sheet

Quote --- Remove the 19mm eccentric bolt (see picture above) described above using a 19mm socket on the eccentric bolt to prevent rotation and a 18mm wrench on the opposing 18mm nut (see picture below). This 18mm nut will require a lot of force to loosen in most cases. As you can see below, the 19mm bolt includes a fixed eccentric washer, a removable eccentric washer, and the 18mm nut. Note that both the fixed eccentric washer and removable eccentric washer are captured between small walls formed on the vehicle cross-member. These washers will need to fit back within these small walls during reassembly.

TIP: Some say that it is difficult to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt from the vehicle cross-member and lower suspension arm on the left side of the vehicle due to the heat exchanger being in the way. For some, this leads them to suggest lifting the engine a few millimeters using the floor jack to provide additional room. However, I found that if you simply rotate the eccentric bolt so that the fixed eccentric washer points downward, there is sufficient room to remove the 19mm eccentric bolt completely.

Hope this helps !

TRINITONY

After several attempts, I gave up and gave the heat exchanger a whack with a 2 by 4. Gentle whack that is..lol....I attached a pic of it in a previous thread, it was just so so close...but still couldn't clear the heat exchanger.

faster

Mark, yep, i referenced Jeff's info, but still cant get it out. i am going with ppressle's tip and loosen the 2 engine mount bolts and go from there, if that doesnt get it i'm sure i'll have to go along the lines of trinitony's method. thanks

InTheAir

Best of luck to ya. If you end up doing something creative, I could add it to the DIY.

wayne325

I put a jack on my jack mounting point to get the engine up just a mm or so. The nut is off, right?
You just rotate the bolt until it is at the narrowest and wiggle it and it will finally come out. It was
a bit difficult but mine came out with no banging. You probably are wondering what I mean
by jack mounting point - I have a billet aluminum block that mounts onto the rear part
of the engine casing and you can jack on that. Since you probably don't have one, just jack
on the engine case at the rear in the middle. I use a hockey puck to cushion.

faster

wayne, not my first day out.... nut is off....... the bolt is out enough to see the flat spot in bolt shank, but its hard up against exchanger. i have jacked engine and exchanger itself, no avail, i will try the motor mount loosening tonight. thanks

Jeff, thanks, i'll let let you know.

epj993

If the motor mount trick doesn't work, removing the heat exchangers is not a big deal. I tried all of the suggestions listed here, but still couldn't get it out. It just seems that there is some variation in the build of each car. On the upside, it would also give you a chance to check out your exhaust valves & SAI ports for carbon build up, albeit on just one side.

wayne325

shoot, too bad it's not coming out. I was swearing at mine for maybe 10 minutes then I finally
got it rotated just right and it came out. I used a mallet to knock it back in - but with no
damage to the heat exchenger. It's definitely a tough operation. I guess mine has just a mm or
so more clearance than your car. Sorry dude..... W.

gordo993

My heat exchanger has that same dent.

TRINITONY

Laid the the 2 by 4 or any scrap piece of wood on trouble spot, then using a hammer I hit the 2 by 4..this way the dent ended up being smooth and shallow ..

Someone said they had success by jacking the engine further forward, almost like tilting it somewhat..

InTheAir

Boy, I guess I lucked it. I didn't have to jack the engine or anything. Just turn the eccentric and pull out.

Other than engine mounts, I'm surprised there is that much tolerance buildup to account for such variations amoung 993s.

chris walrod

These LHS bolts are generally tricky to get out, but doable. Just need the right combination of position and clocking. Also helps to (once the bolt is out as far as possible) use the 'flat' to your advantage by moving the toe-link downwards.