After a search still questions about the Immobilizer?
06-05-2006, 11:00 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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After a search still questions about the Immobilizer?
After a day at the track and after the last run I went to unlock the car and nothing happened when the remote button was pressed. So at this point I manually unlocked the door and the alarm started sounding. Nothing would stop this so I had the car brought home on the flat bed. At this stage both seats are out Nothing seems to be wrong with the Alarm Module and I’m leaning towards the Immobilizer module ( 993 618 159 02). I know the key switch contact for the chimes ( 911 613 125 00) could also be at fault but I could use some help with this. I also do not have the 4 digit code for the remotes. I was told that this code was on the bottom of the immobilizer? Do I need to drill the four rivets that hold the plate over the immobilizer? Any help would be appreciated on how to diagnose this problem.
jv
jv
06-05-2006, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by John Velasco
After a day at the track and after the last run I went to unlock the car and nothing happened when the remote button was pressed. So at this point I manually unlocked the door and the alarm started sounding. Nothing would stop this so I had the car brought home on the flat bed. At this stage both seats are out Nothing seems to be wrong with the Alarm Module and I’m leaning towards the Immobilizer module ( 993 618 159 02). I know the key switch contact for the chimes ( 911 613 125 00) could also be at fault but I could use some help with this. I also do not have the 4 digit code for the remotes. I was told that this code was on the bottom of the immobilizer? Do I need to drill the four rivets that hold the plate over the immobilizer? Any help would be appreciated on how to diagnose this problem.
jv
jv
06-05-2006, 11:16 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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I have new batteries in the remotes and the car. I have gone through most all the threads in this forum and my concern is not having definitive evidence of an immobilizer failure. A new immobilizer module is about 1100.00 even from Pelican. I’m about to take it to the dealer and hope for the best. Like I said the seats are out, it wouldn’t be a stretch to put the new module in and program remotes. I still need to know if I need to drill the rivets or am I missing something?
06-05-2006, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by John Velasco
After a day at the track and after the last run I went to unlock the car and nothing happened when the remote button was pressed. So at this point I manually unlocked the door and the alarm started sounding. Nothing would stop this so I had the car brought home on the flat bed. At this stage both seats are out Nothing seems to be wrong with the Alarm Module and I’m leaning towards the Immobilizer module ( 993 618 159 02). I know the key switch contact for the chimes ( 911 613 125 00) could also be at fault but I could use some help with this. I also do not have the 4 digit code for the remotes. I was told that this code was on the bottom of the immobilizer? Do I need to drill the four rivets that hold the plate over the immobilizer? Any help would be appreciated on how to diagnose this problem.
jv
jv
Do you think it would be possible to take a snap shot of the passenger under seat area? My car has a huge amp under the passenger seat and the immobilizer was way back loose under the rear floor mat. It had major water damage to it and I bought a used one from someone on here. I'm interested in putting it back in the stock location. I would be greatful if you can post a picture of whats under the passenger seat. Thank you,
dave
06-05-2006, 11:21 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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When the light is better tomorrow I will post a pic. I have the factory amp., alarm module
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
06-05-2006, 11:24 PM
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here's a photo to show you exactly how the immobilizer module looks.. I have a spare FS still if you need one.
NOTE I have photos here of 2 (One is OEM original from the car and the other is brand new replacement part)
NOTE I have photos here of 2 (One is OEM original from the car and the other is brand new replacement part)
06-05-2006, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by John Velasco
When the light is better tomorrow I will post a pic. I have the factory amp., alarm module
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
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06-05-2006, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by John Velasco
I have new batteries in the remotes and the car. I have gone through most all the threads in this forum and my concern is not having definitive evidence of an immobilizer failure. A new immobilizer module is about 1100.00 even from Pelican. I’m about to take it to the dealer and hope for the best. Like I said the seats are out, it wouldn’t be a stretch to put the new module in and program remotes. I still need to know if I need to drill the rivets or am I missing something?
Programming those remotes are not that easy..at least for myself and several others. I got my code on Friday and spent a great part of Saturday without success. Tomorrow I'll be going to a different dealer to see if the first dealer gave me the correct code. Either the code is incorrect or my immobilizer is not the original.
I have searched here and other sites for info' on the immobilizer and I have not seen anywhere mentioned, where if you drill the rivets you can get the code. Some folks have mentioned disconnecting the horn while you try and reset it etc. This way it is not as annoying while you work on it.
06-05-2006, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ceboyd
here's a photo to show you exactly how the immobilizer module looks.. I have a spare FS still if you need one.
NOTE I have photos here of 2 (One is OEM original from the car and the other is brand new replacement part)
NOTE I have photos here of 2 (One is OEM original from the car and the other is brand new replacement part)
06-05-2006, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
I will wait and here what others have to say before rushing off the dealer.
Programming those remotes are not that easy..at least for myself and several others. I got my code on Friday and spent a great part of Saturday without success. Tomorrow I'll be going to a different dealer to see if the first dealer gave me the correct code. Either the code is incorrect or my immobilizer is not the original.
I have searched here and other sites for info' on the immobilizer and I have not seen anywhere mentioned, where if you drill the rivets you can get the code. Some folks have mentioned disconnecting the horn while you try and reset it etc. This way it is not as annoying while you work on it.
Programming those remotes are not that easy..at least for myself and several others. I got my code on Friday and spent a great part of Saturday without success. Tomorrow I'll be going to a different dealer to see if the first dealer gave me the correct code. Either the code is incorrect or my immobilizer is not the original.
I have searched here and other sites for info' on the immobilizer and I have not seen anywhere mentioned, where if you drill the rivets you can get the code. Some folks have mentioned disconnecting the horn while you try and reset it etc. This way it is not as annoying while you work on it.
06-05-2006, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by John Velasco
When the light is better tomorrow I will post a pic. I have the factory amp., alarm module
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
And another module that I have know idea of it’s function.
06-05-2006, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by hidden
Is it possible to yank a fuse for the horn without it affecting anything else you need for programming?
06-05-2006, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
I'm not sure, do a search on 'fuse 11', someone mention they had a faulty fuse that was affecting things....I'll do a search also..
06-05-2006, 11:53 PM
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The immobilizer code is programmed into your ECU and NOT the lock/unlock module IIRC (someone else can correct me if I'm wrong).. but in my case I could plug-n-play all 3 modules I had and all worked fine