Need to get thin (4-7mm) spacers. Any advice?
06-07-2006, 12:32 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
ok, just as a follow up, I took some measurements on my hub and wheel today. I'll post this info for posterity. 
I measured 5.6mm of good solid contact on the centering flange. So going beyond 3mm and you lose most of the contact surface. 5mm non-hub-centric spacer would definitely be out. I believe the 964 guys have come to the same conclusion, although it might be coincedence for all I know...
I measured 5.6mm of good solid contact on the centering flange. So going beyond 3mm and you lose most of the contact surface. 5mm non-hub-centric spacer would definitely be out. I believe the 964 guys have come to the same conclusion, although it might be coincedence for all I know...
06-07-2006, 01:53 AM
#17
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Yep, you are correct, my bad. The rotor hat does chew-up some of that distance..
Wheel studs are easy to replace, but some like to knock the old one out. I dont care to pound on the flanges like that. Best would be to utilize some sort of press much like a toe-link or tie-rod splitter.
Wheel studs are easy to replace, but some like to knock the old one out. I dont care to pound on the flanges like that. Best would be to utilize some sort of press much like a toe-link or tie-rod splitter.
06-07-2006, 12:02 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eric,
I use 5 mm spacers that are flat. I got them from Performance Products, and needed them to clear the return line on my Big Reds. The wheels are "17 Kinesis K27. There is no movement between the wheel and the spacer. The wheel stud holes have no play. The wheel doesn't attach to the spacer anyway, it attaches to the studs. The holes in the wheel are hubcentric.
To replace the front studs with bolts that are long enough to use this spacer, I had to remove the hub and bearings and replace the bearings. I could not fit the longer ones in without removing the hub.
The rule of thumb that I have heard is that you must engage the nut with bolt length that is equal to the width of the bolt. So, it is not necessary to have extra threads protruding beyond the nut. It is nice though, and I now do have that in the front. The rears are flush.
These are my experiences, anyway, and seem to differ from others who have written here... just my $.02
I use 5 mm spacers that are flat. I got them from Performance Products, and needed them to clear the return line on my Big Reds. The wheels are "17 Kinesis K27. There is no movement between the wheel and the spacer. The wheel stud holes have no play. The wheel doesn't attach to the spacer anyway, it attaches to the studs. The holes in the wheel are hubcentric.
To replace the front studs with bolts that are long enough to use this spacer, I had to remove the hub and bearings and replace the bearings. I could not fit the longer ones in without removing the hub.
The rule of thumb that I have heard is that you must engage the nut with bolt length that is equal to the width of the bolt. So, it is not necessary to have extra threads protruding beyond the nut. It is nice though, and I now do have that in the front. The rears are flush.
These are my experiences, anyway, and seem to differ from others who have written here... just my $.02
