Anti-seize on Lug Nuts?
05-23-2006, 01:03 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Maybe I was wrong about comments on chrome lug nuts not galling. Check out this thread:
http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:g...ient=firefox-a
There are a few references to the the debate on to use antiseize or not......
Seems like antiseize can be used on the threads but you need to use a lower torque than the 92-94 factory spec torque since it assumes dry clean threads...
Sorry for reiterating what may have been already said above. Next time the wheels are off, ill put it on the faces only and keep the threads clean and dry.
Thanks for the useful thread!!
http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:g...ient=firefox-a
There are a few references to the the debate on to use antiseize or not......
Seems like antiseize can be used on the threads but you need to use a lower torque than the 92-94 factory spec torque since it assumes dry clean threads...
Sorry for reiterating what may have been already said above. Next time the wheels are off, ill put it on the faces only and keep the threads clean and dry.
Thanks for the useful thread!!
05-23-2006, 02:26 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Hmmm, everything I have heard is that it goes on the threads.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
LOL,..I put it on the ball face of the nuts that rest against the wheel, not on the studs.
If you put it on the stud threads, you can inadvertenly overtorque the wheels and sometimes it can feel just like a warped rotor.
If you put it on the stud threads, you can inadvertenly overtorque the wheels and sometimes it can feel just like a warped rotor.
05-23-2006, 05:29 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Baggerdude
.....Now, I don't torque my lug nuts to some spec.... perhaps I should. I was brought up doing things "by hand"... (don't go there, guys!). Like just "this tight", then a bit "more". Hard to explain, but I've done this on many vehicles and always with the oil filters.....
Pink, red and blue depending on the strain in your face
05-23-2006, 08:39 PM
#19
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Thanks Steve & Garth for your thoughts. I've never used a lubricant on the threads for the reasons they discussed. I've always thought that was Porsche's recommendation. I'd be interested in reading anything from PAG to the contrary.
On the subject of which is preferable for my nuts: lubed or dry, I'll defer to my wife, although I think it's really a question of intended use & I'm more comfortable with them dry.
On the subject of which is preferable for my nuts: lubed or dry, I'll defer to my wife, although I think it's really a question of intended use & I'm more comfortable with them dry.
Last edited by STLPCA; 05-29-2006 at 01:26 AM.
05-23-2006, 09:25 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by STLPCA
On the subject of which is preferable for my nuts: lubed or dry, I'll defer to my wife, although I think it's really a question of intended use & I'm more comfortable with them dry.
I'm with you . . . last thing you want is any stretching or snapping from lube-enduced over-torquing, cranking, or rotating.
Kind regards,
05-23-2006, 09:40 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by STLPCA
I'm more comfortable with them dry.
Last edited by Mark in Baltimore; 05-23-2006 at 10:37 PM.
05-23-2006, 10:32 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Your method is known as colored torque.
Pink, red and blue depending on the strain in your face
Pink, red and blue depending on the strain in your face
I guess if I had to choose, I'd pick a stale puce. Well, that ain't zackly correct either. One has to have "the hands" to appreciate what I'm talkin' about, eh.
Anyway.... I think that placing some grease, or some such... not much.... on the wheel bolttz will make removal of same somewhat EZr.
Now, I prefer KY on my nuts with the torque specs within normal limits... if necessary.... but I prefer no wrenches or mechanical devices, eh.
05-23-2006, 10:45 PM
#23
Phlat Black Guru
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Originally Posted by Baggerdude
That's pretty funny Monique.
I guess if I had to choose, I'd pick a stale puce. Well, that ain't zackly correct either. One has to have "the hands" to appreciate what I'm talkin' about, eh.
Anyway.... I think that placing some grease, or some such... not much.... on the wheel bolttz will make removal of same somewhat EZr.
Now, I prefer KY on my nuts with the torque specs within normal limits... if necessary.... but I prefer no wrenches or mechanical devices, eh.
I guess if I had to choose, I'd pick a stale puce. Well, that ain't zackly correct either. One has to have "the hands" to appreciate what I'm talkin' about, eh.
Anyway.... I think that placing some grease, or some such... not much.... on the wheel bolttz will make removal of same somewhat EZr.
Now, I prefer KY on my nuts with the torque specs within normal limits... if necessary.... but I prefer no wrenches or mechanical devices, eh.
05-23-2006, 11:25 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
you should get some better rubber.......before worrying about nut grease!!!
You are correct, sir. I spent some time speaking with a fellow at Wheel Enhancement in CA about new sneakers and new wheels, as well.
The cost of the new wheels was a bit more than I suspected ... and I usually think "HIGH". Some new Turbo twists with polished lips (no KY) and black painted spokes/centers and cleared are $3920 (+$230 shipping)... USDs. And this does not include the Sport Pilot Ribs either ... which I suspect are around another $1500 with shipping.
Sooooooooo.... we would be looking at over $5500 for new Turbo twists and new sneakers.... all mounted, balanced, tax, shipping and such.
OUCH..!!
He did say that it would only take SIX WEEKS to get this done! Like I'm gonna do this in prime driving season, eh.
At $275 per wheel (my wheels), they could do the same/same deal... add $230 for shipping... and (again..) 6 weeks. So, my car is on jack stands for a couple months?
I think I'll just buy some new tires and be done with thewholeshebang. Maybe next tire change I'll have my wheels "redone" locally ... but, the cost at Wheel Enhancement is just tooooooo damn much IMO. Plus, what if I don't like the combo wheel/tires? Then I can use the KY that I brought myowndamnswelf on the lug nutz to prevent galling, eh?
05-23-2006, 11:35 PM
#26
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lol.....
I have a set of track wheels......for sale.....2750 plus shipping.......BBS mag wheels......all you will need is one rear mpcs..........on the rear
I have a set of track wheels......for sale.....2750 plus shipping.......BBS mag wheels......all you will need is one rear mpcs..........on the rear
05-24-2006, 04:11 AM
#27
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by TomF
Steve, thanks for the tip about the "warped rotor feeling." I have been having subtle symptoms of warped rotors, but in a cursory look have found no evidence that they are warped. I bet that I overtorqued my wheels. (I do it by feel, and I tend to overdo it.) They are new rotors from Suncoast BTW. If I remove the wheels and torque them to spec, will this help, or have I possibly bent the rims?!
FWIW, one cannot accurately "torque" wheels on these cars by feel,...
Back in the old days with drum brakes, steel wheels, and steel lugs, one simply tightened things up with a 4-way or impact gun and watched the nut rotate til tight: they would not fall off. If you overtightened them a bit, it had no impact on braking feel & performance and the only drawbacks were the failure to break them loose by the side of the road when changing a flat,...
Now, if you overtighten the hubs/bearing carriers, you distort the whole alloy assembly that can make the rotor wobble a bit by creating some axial runout. That feels just like warped rotors.
Its not very likely that you hurt anything. I'd simply re-torque the wheels to spec and test it again. If you have some shake when you apply the brakes, I'd have a shop check the rotor & hub runout with a magnetically-mounted dial indicator out at the edges.
05-24-2006, 06:43 PM
#29
Poseur
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Porsche has always said no Anti-Seize thread lubricants for lub nuts/bolts. Particularly on the threads. I've used taht stuff in mostly exhaust applications but will not with wheel bolts/nuts.
Dan
Dan
