Miller_arch

My front brakes pads are not that bad; the rotors are not worn either. I have inspected the rotors and can determine the exact point that the rotor grabs the pads as you turn the rotor. The grab point on the rotor is about the size of the pad. And it’s only the driver’s side rotor that grabs.

It just seems like a waste of money to trash these rotors. I have clean out of the holes, driving with your foot on the brake to help grind down the high spot...all the stuff the search feature revealed.

Before I shell out the cash for OE rotors, is someone in the KC area able to "turn" these rotors for me? Or does someone, anyone, have a pair of slightly used front rotors they want to sell; if in fact these rotors turn out to be trash?

The steering wheel shake is getting a bit too much and its getting worse, I need to take some kind of action on this...maybe its buy the new OE rotors and move on…it just seems like a shame to do that.

chris walrod

This is more than likely just a pad depostion problem rather than a warped rotor. Best way to determine is to run a dial indicator on the friction surface of the rotor to check for any runout.

Otherwise, best would be to install an agressive pad into the calipers, go out and bed them suckers in. Once complete, replace the original pads and see if the problem has been fixed. This is probably your problem.

I have a set of knarly PFC race pads that I could send you just for this purpose. Just return them once complete

Don Plumley

Rotors are easy to pull, there are probably a 100 machine shops in KC that can do runout and/or turn them. As a trusted mechanic to whom they send their rotors to for machining. Probably less than $20 each. You should bring the min thickness/machining spec with you (32mm nominal, 30.6 min machining, 30mm min wear). They can measure runout and see if it really is a deposition problem. And probably about the same to ship the PFC pads to/from So Cal. Just a thought...

Miller_arch

Thanks for the good/quick advice and very kind offer. I think I will pull the rotors off in the morning and see if I can find a Saturday shop that can work me in. I have not measured them but I doubt seriously they are below minimum, they show no wear at all. If I can get this done tomorrow I will be a happy camper.

Terry Adams

Chris is right about the pad depostion problem. I had it once on a new set of pads and rotors. Took them back, the shop turned them "lightly", and no problem since.

Miller_arch

Followup. Took the rotors to a machine shop. The meat left on the rotors is too little to machine. I am amazed at what little it takes to reduce the rotors to replacement status. Learning everyday. Sunset Porsche to the rescue...

kkim

What were the readings on the thickness of the rotors?

Miller_arch

I don't remember exactly but when looking at the book I had less than 1/16" before I got to min machine thickness. The tech said that was almost his finish pass. The lift rotor had a "heat sink" if you will and it was collecting pad material in this area so it was thicker in the area (about a third of rotor circumference). It would have taken a lot of machining to get below the damaged rotor area into good rotor material thus reducing the thickness of the entire rotor. At that point it would have been well below minimum rotor thickness.

The front rotors came with the car, the rear brakes were replaced when I bought the car. I figure I should bit the bullet and replace the fronts and be done with it. Rotors are $106 each.