DIY front plate bracket (was ticket in CA)
03-01-2006, 11:58 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
DIY front plate bracket (was ticket in CA)
Hi all - I recently got a zix it ticket in CA for no front plate. I made a bracket that requires no drill holes, can be easily removed installed (with no tools) and fits under the front bumper. I made my bracket temporary, if you want, you can use longer screws that compress the bottom lip of the bumper or even drill the bottom of the bumper so its permanent.
What you need are 2 speed nuts (I included a pic of the bag) from Lowes, aluminum angle iron, 3 or 4 nuts and bolts and finally pipe insulation. First drill 4 holes in the angle iron. 2 of the holes will be spaced to accept the plate, the other 2 holes (on the other angle iron face must be big enough to allow the speed nut to be inserted. I placed the speed nut holes close to the sides of the plate so that I can manipulate them. If they are inboard, if they lock, they are hard to get off. I hope the pics are self explanitory.
Anyway, the only two points that touch the underside of the bumper are the speed nuts. They will scratch the bottom lip of the bumper. This is where holes would be drilled with mounts anyway so I feel this is low impact. The only way the scratches can be seen is if you are under the car.
If you are constantly, taking the plate on and off, you may elect to unscrew the bracket from the speed nuts. That way you are not scratching the bumper. The speed nuts minus the bracket are small and black and discreet.
BTW, I added insulation on the back of the plate to protect the bumper in case the plate is vibrating.
I have not tested this at > highway speeds. I assume you can add more speed nuts or drill holes for permanent fixture. My purposes are to resolve the fix-it ticket.
What you need are 2 speed nuts (I included a pic of the bag) from Lowes, aluminum angle iron, 3 or 4 nuts and bolts and finally pipe insulation. First drill 4 holes in the angle iron. 2 of the holes will be spaced to accept the plate, the other 2 holes (on the other angle iron face must be big enough to allow the speed nut to be inserted. I placed the speed nut holes close to the sides of the plate so that I can manipulate them. If they are inboard, if they lock, they are hard to get off. I hope the pics are self explanitory.
Anyway, the only two points that touch the underside of the bumper are the speed nuts. They will scratch the bottom lip of the bumper. This is where holes would be drilled with mounts anyway so I feel this is low impact. The only way the scratches can be seen is if you are under the car.
If you are constantly, taking the plate on and off, you may elect to unscrew the bracket from the speed nuts. That way you are not scratching the bumper. The speed nuts minus the bracket are small and black and discreet.
BTW, I added insulation on the back of the plate to protect the bumper in case the plate is vibrating.
I have not tested this at > highway speeds. I assume you can add more speed nuts or drill holes for permanent fixture. My purposes are to resolve the fix-it ticket.
03-01-2006, 01:07 PM
#2
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle
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Nice work.
Looks alot better than the plate affixed to the nose of the car. If only you could legally reduce the dimensions of the plate to just show the numbers/letters.
Jeff N.
Looks alot better than the plate affixed to the nose of the car. If only you could legally reduce the dimensions of the plate to just show the numbers/letters.
Jeff N.
03-01-2006, 01:37 PM
#5
The ability (based on where state name, stcikers, etc) and the "legality" of tweaking the plate varies state-to-state, but here's what it looks like if you are able to reduce the height of the plate to about 4.75" - it does not hang down below bumper. In my case, I bent the top and fastened it up into the bumper (holes not visible). 1/4" black foam tape on the back of the plate across the bottom prevents it from hitting the paint.