dhicks

Don't very often use my cruise control, but its starting to bug me that when I want to, sometimes it works, sometimes it does not.....I have been told it is probably the clutch deactivation switch.....so this weekend I will lift the carpet and take out the wooded floor...this still makes me laugh....and try and fix.....does anybody have a good description or a picture of where to find the offending switch.

Thanks guys

ColoradoMark

The first symptom of my clutch master cylinder/kinematic lever going out was the cruise control not always working. I discovered that the pedal was not fully returning - try lifting on the pedal when it is not working and see if will then engage.

dhicks

Thanks Mark....that did work at one time but now that no longer does the trick......but thats good advice for anybody else.......by the by I am going to change the clutch cylinder within the next few weeks

AOW162435

David,
I think the clutch deactivation switch is located on the third floor joist over once you've lifted off the wooden floor.














Andreas


P.S. Slave cylinder? It's getting warmer....

dhicks

Thanks Andreas

Edgy01

If they haven't relocated this thing the usual culprit is the clutch switch that is telling the Tempomat (CruiseControl) that the clutch is depressed. What happens generally is as the clutch cable stretches over time that switch may need adjusting. Unfortunately, it is a bugger of a spot,--down there near the center control cable tunnel underneath the center console next to the accelerator pedal. You will have to do some disassembly to get to it. I had repeated problems with my cruise on a 77 car when I later discovered it was that switch. I had rarer issues with my 81 car (brought on to myself by using a Carrera RSR pressure plate that would stretch the cable a lot). Good luck. I don't envy you that 'little' project.

Dan

Peter S 993tt

Edgy01 the 993's and 964's had hydraulic clutches.

Edgy01

oops. am I out of date.

Dan

Sumtoc

I had this problem/symptom for months and tested the brake and clutch switches several times with a meter, hoping it was one of them. (Mine worked fine but an easy fix if that is the cause...) Pretty easy to get too after you remove the wooden floorboard and you will want to check them with a meter, don't rely on the clicking noise or absence of it.

Having done the easy check I took it to a local shop who found a dirty connector in the engine compartment. Mine is an early '95 and the offending connector is located in the bottom left side of the engine, easily accessable from the top of the engine. Believe it was the green one but there are about 4-5 connectors in that same area. Wouldn't hurt to check and clean them all.

Might save you some time and $$, good luck.

viperbob

Just to make sure it is clear, there are two swiches in the pedal box area. One if for the brake lights and other microswitch is for the clutch deactivtation of the cruise control. They are clearly visible, and the operation evident when you get off the wooden floor board. As mentioned, the cruse control not working in most cases is a sign that the clutch is not fully returning and contacting the microswitch to enable operation. The switch does go bad, but the other issues associated with the clutch slave cylinder / kinematic lever are much more probable. Also easy to see and diagnose with the floor board off.

Just as an aside, if you are down there anyway it is a simple matter to move the height of the brake pedal. Most drivers find a lower height (closer to the floor) much more desirable. Espeically for any type of DE activity. You will be able to see the threaded rod that controls the height on the brake pedal. Loosen this and just let the height move down towards the floor board.. You will have to then readjust the stop light switch. THis is the limiting factor. You will have to just srew this towards the stop on the adjusted brake pedal. Make sure you get this right so your brake lights come on properly. With a 5 minute adjustment, you can get the brake pedal over an inch lower with no loose or concerns on braking function.

dhicks

Bob/Sumtoc...thanks for the posts...I had fully intended to do it this w/e but just got caught up in other things...glad I did not get to it as your posts are useful insights....I have never taken the wooden floor boards out beofre but have been advised there are two ways to release the "go faster" pedal....one...just pull the ball connector out but can be difficult to get resited and two undo the screw rod that holds it in place but this means you have to adjust correctly when you put it back together.....which do you advise???

viperbob

Just pull and pop out. When reinserting, make sure that the carpet and such is not in the way so that it can pop back into place.

Sumtoc

I did what Bob says. When popping it back in I recall that it requires a bit of force so I tried to offload that by immoblizing the linkage with a strong pair of pliers (not on the nut/connector). Sharp pop with the heel of your hand should do it.

AOW162435

I used Vice Grips on the linkage to hold the rod steady while I pulled back on the Go-pedal. Snapping it back into place proved most frustrating, so I took the pedal out, checked the exposed thread on the rod, and then snapped the ball socket back in after undoing the connection. I also put a small dab of grease into the dry socket. Threading the linkage back together was easy.

Andreas

hamsterbunny

Thanks to the excellent information pn this post, my cruise control was not working, adjusting the microswitch position fixed it. Thought I'd include a pic for people coming across this post.