993 starter replacement
#1
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993 starter replacement
We had a discussion couple weeks ago regarding the procedure on how to replace a 993 starter, sorry I couldn't find the original thread so here is a new post on that subject. Thanks for everyone's input I completed this DIY recently, I didn't take any pics of the process as it was very frustrating and I wasn't sure if I could ever have completed it.
I will posted pictures of the tools I ended up using, pretty much basic tools just need to get creative and extended the handle of a ratchet to be able to get leverage.
This DIY was totally major PITA, took me about 4 hours from start to finish. Here are some input for others in the future.
(1). No need to lower the transmission.
(2). Need to remove the heater piping on both sides
(3). Need to disconnect the half shaft on the left side
If you have really short and fat arms, forget it about doing this then. Basically you have to hug the transmission from underneath and get your hands to reach over the top of the transmission in front of the clutch slave cylinder to get the the top starter bolt. And for some reason (I am guessing the heat over time), that bolt is welded on there.
Once that bolt is removed everything else is pretty simple....
I will post some pictures of the tools I used to remove the top lug tomorrow.
I will posted pictures of the tools I ended up using, pretty much basic tools just need to get creative and extended the handle of a ratchet to be able to get leverage.
This DIY was totally major PITA, took me about 4 hours from start to finish. Here are some input for others in the future.
(1). No need to lower the transmission.
(2). Need to remove the heater piping on both sides
(3). Need to disconnect the half shaft on the left side
If you have really short and fat arms, forget it about doing this then. Basically you have to hug the transmission from underneath and get your hands to reach over the top of the transmission in front of the clutch slave cylinder to get the the top starter bolt. And for some reason (I am guessing the heat over time), that bolt is welded on there.
Once that bolt is removed everything else is pretty simple....
I will post some pictures of the tools I used to remove the top lug tomorrow.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Hey Robin!
Great to see a post from you. Many of the new kids over here probaly dont know the time and effort you put into helping 993 owners work on/modify their cars! Still making the great mufflers??
One thing I dont miss about the 993 is the cramped engine space, working on that sucker was a nightmare (6 hours to change the spark plugs!!!)
With the 944, most work is a breeze. Starter took me all of 10 min. to change. I repack the CV's for fun in less that 45 min. (not rubbing it in, just remembering the nightmares and busted knuckles of the 993)
Great to see a post from you. Many of the new kids over here probaly dont know the time and effort you put into helping 993 owners work on/modify their cars! Still making the great mufflers??
One thing I dont miss about the 993 is the cramped engine space, working on that sucker was a nightmare (6 hours to change the spark plugs!!!)
With the 944, most work is a breeze. Starter took me all of 10 min. to change. I repack the CV's for fun in less that 45 min. (not rubbing it in, just remembering the nightmares and busted knuckles of the 993)
#4
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Eric,
I did however receive a DIY write up from somone who actually also did the starter replacement and he took some pictures so I will be posting that soon on p-car.com.
Yes, I did finally break loose that welded nut but not without breaking couple of knockles and bruzsing some finger nails.
Makes me wonder why Porsche don't have an open access panel from the cabin of the car to get to the hard to reach places like starter and clutch slave cylinder. Almost makes me want to make an open access panel on my own....
I did however receive a DIY write up from somone who actually also did the starter replacement and he took some pictures so I will be posting that soon on p-car.com.
Yes, I did finally break loose that welded nut but not without breaking couple of knockles and bruzsing some finger nails.
Makes me wonder why Porsche don't have an open access panel from the cabin of the car to get to the hard to reach places like starter and clutch slave cylinder. Almost makes me want to make an open access panel on my own....
#5
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Originally Posted by Robin 993DX
Eric,
I did however receive a DIY write up from somone who actually also did the starter replacement and he took some pictures so I will be posting that soon on p-car.com.
Yes, I did finally break loose that welded nut but not without breaking couple of knockles and bruzsing some finger nails.
Makes me wonder why Porsche don't have an open access panel from the cabin of the car to get to the hard to reach places like starter and clutch slave cylinder. Almost makes me want to make an open access panel on my own....
I did however receive a DIY write up from somone who actually also did the starter replacement and he took some pictures so I will be posting that soon on p-car.com.
Yes, I did finally break loose that welded nut but not without breaking couple of knockles and bruzsing some finger nails.
Makes me wonder why Porsche don't have an open access panel from the cabin of the car to get to the hard to reach places like starter and clutch slave cylinder. Almost makes me want to make an open access panel on my own....
#7
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I too thought about that, I also have a plasma cutter so it wouldn't be hard for me to make an access panel from under the rear seat. But from looking all the rubber hose under where the cut would take place I would probably prefer to use a cut off wheel and do it slowly and have someone watch over the process from below just to make sure I am not cutting any vitals.
As for the panel idea, I was thinking that in order to maintain structural integrity I would making a new panel out of new steel which is larger and thicker than the hole that I cut, this way I can bolt the new cover back on to maintain strength, instead of just use hinges. I was also thinking that I could use bolts with square seat so that i can install the bolt from the bottom of the access hole so when I place the new panel on I can secure it with a hex nut from above and the bolt would remain in place.
Anyways.... just ideas.... not enough time....
As for the panel idea, I was thinking that in order to maintain structural integrity I would making a new panel out of new steel which is larger and thicker than the hole that I cut, this way I can bolt the new cover back on to maintain strength, instead of just use hinges. I was also thinking that I could use bolts with square seat so that i can install the bolt from the bottom of the access hole so when I place the new panel on I can secure it with a hex nut from above and the bolt would remain in place.
Anyways.... just ideas.... not enough time....
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#9
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Yeah! :P
I don't mind doing this to my 993, just don't have the time and the person that I can stick underneath the car while I make the cut..........
Anyone?
I don't mind doing this to my 993, just don't have the time and the person that I can stick underneath the car while I make the cut..........
Anyone?
#11
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Robin,
While your thoughts regarding an access panel may offend some purists, I think it's sound. The 911 body structure is so rigid that I doubt a cutout the size of a standard tissue box would cause any measurable flex. If one were to do this properly, with a clean cut, protected metal and a door with gasket, it would be supremely useful.
I for one intend to keep my 993 for a hell of a long time - something like this would not phase me. In fact, it would be great to have an access panel right now so that I could change my bloody slave cylinder without too much fanfare...
I actually intend to do something very similar to my '01 4Runner, as the top shock mounting points were designed by the same genius who penned the slave cylinder location on the 993!
Andreas
While your thoughts regarding an access panel may offend some purists, I think it's sound. The 911 body structure is so rigid that I doubt a cutout the size of a standard tissue box would cause any measurable flex. If one were to do this properly, with a clean cut, protected metal and a door with gasket, it would be supremely useful.
I for one intend to keep my 993 for a hell of a long time - something like this would not phase me. In fact, it would be great to have an access panel right now so that I could change my bloody slave cylinder without too much fanfare...
I actually intend to do something very similar to my '01 4Runner, as the top shock mounting points were designed by the same genius who penned the slave cylinder location on the 993!
Andreas
#12
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As promised here is the picture of the tools I used in sequence to loosen the top starter bolt. Didn't need complicated universal or swivel as told to me previously.
This DIY is where the quality of Snap on tools really came in handy, the clicks on the Snap on ratchet were finer than the ones on the Sears craftsman ratchet which given the limited space (About 30 degree) of movement this made a night and day difference.
The top tool is a Snapon 3/8 drive bar (Don't know what you call it) - I used this bar to break the nut loose as this tool have the least amount of play when tensioned up.
Next is a Snap on 1/2 drive extension with a socket (I used this to gain leverage to break loose the nut) in conjunction with the above tool.
Next is a 3/8 extension which is used in conjunction with the 10mm 3/8 allen driver and the drive bar
Next is a 3/8 drive Snap on ratchet, this was used to replace the drive bar after the nut had broke loose
Next is a 3/8 10mm hex drive
This DIY is where the quality of Snap on tools really came in handy, the clicks on the Snap on ratchet were finer than the ones on the Sears craftsman ratchet which given the limited space (About 30 degree) of movement this made a night and day difference.
The top tool is a Snapon 3/8 drive bar (Don't know what you call it) - I used this bar to break the nut loose as this tool have the least amount of play when tensioned up.
Next is a Snap on 1/2 drive extension with a socket (I used this to gain leverage to break loose the nut) in conjunction with the above tool.
Next is a 3/8 extension which is used in conjunction with the 10mm 3/8 allen driver and the drive bar
Next is a 3/8 drive Snap on ratchet, this was used to replace the drive bar after the nut had broke loose
Next is a 3/8 10mm hex drive
#13
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Yessir Robin, there is a difference <-- Snap-On slogan They are great tools, but pricey. Typically tool quality is not obvious until one faces a tight situation much like this one. There is a difference, when it counts!
Robin,
You are not too far from me. Please let me know if you ever need to borrow tools or need a helping hand. I can screw up anything
Robin,
You are not too far from me. Please let me know if you ever need to borrow tools or need a helping hand. I can screw up anything
#14
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Chris,
Thank you so much for your offer, I will definitely look you up on this one day soon....
What do you think about an engine drop in my garage? :P
Thank you so much for your offer, I will definitely look you up on this one day soon....
What do you think about an engine drop in my garage? :P
#15
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Hi Robin,
And if Chris is not available, I'd love to come by and give you a hand ...if even just to watch and hold a wrench during surgery.
Edward
And if Chris is not available, I'd love to come by and give you a hand ...if even just to watch and hold a wrench during surgery.
Edward