AOW162435

Thanks for all of the prompt back-office responses! (Mark - I'll deal with you later.)

I've done my share of wrenching over the years and am certainly not green to proper torque values, but I grabbed the info from Robin's site before tackling the job. I also thumbed through the shop manual while waiting for the red phone to ring and could not find a spec for that bolt. 15 - 20 ft.lbs certainly seems sufficient.

It all worked out fine and the car has a fresh fill of Mobil1, both filters, a few o-rings, and some new crush washers. I am convinced that the small filter I removed last saw daylight in Stuttgart back in '94..... Also, the small filter came off without fanfare, using the trusty Lisle filter wrench I've been using for years. All in all, it felt great getting the oil change done properly. Maybe the next time I can shorten the evolution to 2 hours

I also fitted the new brake fluid reservoir cap and associated bits and intend to do a proper flush this week.

And to finally put the confusion regarding a front jacking point to rest, here is what I did. I rolled the front wheels up on a set of 2x6 scraps, jacked under the engine case (w/ hockey puck), placed a set of AC stands under the rear points, and then jacked the front using a 2' piece of 2x6 covered with an old towel. I had previously removed the spare tire in order to shed a few pounds. I located the board directly under the foremost portion of the spare tire well - at the point where the bumper cover ends. The car lifted effortlessly and simply pivoted on the rear stands. It worked perfectly and the soft towel served to eliminate any possibility of damage under the pan. Two more flat-top AC stands under the front lift points and the car sat rock solid. So, two lifting actions and no need for multiple lifts from one side of the car to the other. The AC stands are peerless.

Andreas

viperbob

Eric - Here are the bolts that are referred to at the bottom of the torque spec sheet. The first pic is the left hand side and the item is #20 with a 52 lb/ft torque requirement. In the second pic this is the right side of the engine and it is #12 with a 66 lb/ft requirement.

chris walrod

Cool, I guessed closely Small short bolts like these, especially into aluminum dont stretch a lot. I am always weary when I wrench those little things

AOW162435

Bob,
I don't think those represent the bolt in question. It's only a bolt that secures the flange at the end of the oil return tube shown on Robin's site. I'm sniffing through the PET at the moment and will post a pic if I find something.

Andreas

AOW162435

Bingo - found it. The tube in question is referred to as: 'oil pipe', 993.207.260.01, and the bolt that started the controversy is: 'bolt, hex head' M8 x 16, 900.075.087.02. For clarification:



Andreas

epj993

Andreas, sorry for the mis-info. I would have really felt bad if you had used it. Glad everything worked out, though. I am still curious what parts those last two entries on the torque sheet refer to

viperbob

Andreas, you are correct that is the bolt Mark had posted you were have issues with on your car. The post I made with the other pics of the engine block were in answer to Eric's question on what were the bolts that need the 66 and 52 lb/ft of torque. Sorry for the confusion.

epj993

Thanks Bob, I see you clearly labeled your post with the diagram. I seem to be having a hard time with my reading comprehension