CAR WON'T START!!!
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Well, it didn't start with the push start, which I suppose is a good thing - I think I can eliminate the starter/solenoid from the equation. Problem is, can't figure out the easiest way to access the ignition switch, and I really don't want to pull apart the dash if I don't have to... any ideas?
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From: Los Angeles, CA
You may find the answers to your questions regarding the location of parts, etc. here:
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
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From: Shrewsbury MA
If you have the factory immobilizer, you should have an idiot light in your clock.
When the light is out, the car will start. ( I doubt anyone has the immobilizer with having become aware of its nagging Arming/Disarming procedures.)
See below:
ARMED
DISARMED
When the light is out, the car will start. ( I doubt anyone has the immobilizer with having become aware of its nagging Arming/Disarming procedures.)
See below:
ARMED
DISARMED
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah, try a voltmeter. You should have 12V at the starter connections.
When I bought my 914 it would sometimes not start either. It turned out that one of the starter connections was a solid, flat piece of copper. I couldn't see it right away, but the piece was actually broken, and sometimes the car would be sitting in such a position that there was no connection made.
If the car will not start on with a push, however, it is a sign that you are not getting any juice to the plugs (or the starter). Did you check the DME relay?
good luck!
When I bought my 914 it would sometimes not start either. It turned out that one of the starter connections was a solid, flat piece of copper. I couldn't see it right away, but the piece was actually broken, and sometimes the car would be sitting in such a position that there was no connection made.
If the car will not start on with a push, however, it is a sign that you are not getting any juice to the plugs (or the starter). Did you check the DME relay?
good luck!
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Thanks guys, appreciate the input! I'll try the hairdryer idea tomorrow morning (thanks Eric!), that sounds like a damn good idea... anyway, I definitely don't have the factory immobilizer (thanks Dave!)
I'll also see if I can pick up a cheap volt meter tomorrow morning, probably good thing to have anyway...
I'll also see if I can pick up a cheap volt meter tomorrow morning, probably good thing to have anyway...
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Originally Posted by fbfisher
You may find the answers to your questions regarding the location of parts, etc. here:
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
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I am no expert on 911's and their electrical challenges, but if it is something that happens when it's cold and many of the other electrical related components have been checked, I'd check the battery terminals. If the terminals are corroded (doesn't have to be much to create a high resistance connection) in combination with the colder temperatures which will also make it more difficult on the battery, you may not be able to start the car, even with a good battery and good components (cables, solenoids, starter, etc). May seem trivial, but I have had this happen a couple times.
One approach I have used was to remove the battery cable clamps and used steel wool (alternatively: scotch brite, SOS or any abbrassive pad) to clean and remove all oxidation from the cable ends and battery terminals, making sure to tighten the cable clamps snug. The second approach is to use baking soda and water to remove oxidiation if you can't remove the cables.
Maybe you already thought of this and maybe I am way off base, but I thought I'd share just in case.
One approach I have used was to remove the battery cable clamps and used steel wool (alternatively: scotch brite, SOS or any abbrassive pad) to clean and remove all oxidation from the cable ends and battery terminals, making sure to tighten the cable clamps snug. The second approach is to use baking soda and water to remove oxidiation if you can't remove the cables.
Maybe you already thought of this and maybe I am way off base, but I thought I'd share just in case.
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Originally Posted by MrClean
I am no expert on 911's and their electrical challenges, but if it is something that happens when it's cold and many of the other electrical related components have been checked, I'd check the battery terminals. If the terminals are corroded (doesn't have to be much to create a high resistance connection) in combination with the colder temperatures which will also make it more difficult on the battery, you may not be able to start the car, even with a good battery and good components (cables, solenoids, starter, etc). May seem trivial, but I have had this happen a couple times.
One approach I have used was to remove the battery cable clamps and used steel wool (alternatively: scotch brite, SOS or any abbrassive pad) to clean and remove all oxidation from the cable ends and battery terminals, making sure to tighten the cable clamps snug. The second approach is to use baking soda and water to remove oxidiation if you can't remove the cables.
Maybe you already thought of this and maybe I am way off base, but I thought I'd share just in case.
One approach I have used was to remove the battery cable clamps and used steel wool (alternatively: scotch brite, SOS or any abbrassive pad) to clean and remove all oxidation from the cable ends and battery terminals, making sure to tighten the cable clamps snug. The second approach is to use baking soda and water to remove oxidiation if you can't remove the cables.
Maybe you already thought of this and maybe I am way off base, but I thought I'd share just in case.
Thanks everyone for the input! I tried the hairdryer this morning but no dice. I'll let you know what the problems ends up being as soon as I get it fixed.
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
Originally Posted by pcar964
Well, it didn't start with the push start, which I suppose is a good thing - I think I can eliminate the starter/solenoid from the equation. Problem is, can't figure out the easiest way to access the ignition switch, and I really don't want to pull apart the dash if I don't have to... any ideas?
Good luck!
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Originally Posted by epj993
Be sure to use some gel and/or moouse 
knew I forgot something...I unscrewed the ring around the ignition, but it's still mounted very tightly (the ring is purely aesthetic) I'll dig around and see if I can figure it out.
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From: London, UK
i am not an electrical guru but
about a year a go my car had a similar issue.
It turned out to be the cable from the alternator to the battery apparantly 911s are prone to this wearing out due to the rocking motion of the engine - well thats what they told me.
Just something else to consider.
Good luck
Tito.
about a year a go my car had a similar issue.
It turned out to be the cable from the alternator to the battery apparantly 911s are prone to this wearing out due to the rocking motion of the engine - well thats what they told me.
Just something else to consider.
Good luck
Tito.
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Thanks Tito, but this appears to definitely be a problem with the connection between ignition switch and starter itself, as power is good to my stereo and lights. I'm no electrical guru either, but it's definitely an area I want to learn more about 
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On the watercooled VW's, the ignition switch is a set of contacts housed in a plastic capsule. Over time the capsule cracks and arks between contacts. The remedy is to replace the capsule. Havent looked in my manuals (to late tonight), but that might possibly be the culprit. I'll pull out the volumes tomorrow if you hadn't figured it out by then.