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A newbie's faith in a PPI

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Old 11-27-2005, 01:56 PM
  #16  
chris walrod
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Wow, this is a bummer.
First, ask the place who PPI'd this car for a list of items they check. Dont let them say, 'well, everything.'

At that point, make a list of everything you have found wrong. Compare notes with the ma'najer.
Like others have already said, most of what you see on the bottom of your engine is just cosmoline. Valve cover leaks are common, as are leaks or weeping from the oil level sendor.

Dont want to kick you while your down, but it appears at least one of your rear shocks are leaking. Use this when talking with this PPI place. Tell them now you are facing $2K in suspension work based on items THEY missed during the PPI.

Dont sweat the front end scrapes, it is quite common to find these. My car appeared to have been really well taken care of, and it has scrapes on the front lower corners. Exhaust tips are also very common to be scraped up.

You may want to remove the front plastic cover under the power steering rack and pinion. Look for leaks there as well.

A thorough PPI should also include going over the list of updates recommended by Porsche like the alt/fan pulleys, engine loom (if applicable), steering rack brace if 18" wheel are used, clutch pedal lever update, headlight bulb retainer update etc.
Old 11-27-2005, 02:26 PM
  #17  
Dan V
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FWIW I had my PPI done at a dealer: mckenna. Before I decided to use them I called and asked exactly what they check for. The service advisor read off the check list they use: the "pre-owned inspection checklist", part # PNA 000151, which is a 2 page official Porsche form.

The tech at mckenna checked everything on the list, and I didn' find anything wrong with the car that they hadn't disclosed on their inspection -- I was lucky and I got what I paid for. In retrospect I wish I had used an independent for the PPI rather than a dealer, but in any case when dealing with an 'unknown' shop it's important to have something in writing (i.e. a checklist) to make sure you're getting the service you're paying for.
Old 11-27-2005, 03:33 PM
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Gregory993
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Originally Posted by BobbyT

Here is a great PPI guide by our late friend Paul Lighthill. You will pay a bit more for a PPI this thorough, but it is money well spent, and you will know what you are buying (or not):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...repurchase.htm
Thanks Bobby, I actually found that thru a link on this site 2 months ago, I really have been lurking here for a while. That's what I thought I was getting at the dealer. Live and learn. Just went out into the driveway and saw a few oil spots again...hmm, I suspect it's coming from the oil level sending unit on the tank, I tightened it up last night when I did the oil change. I bet a new gasket or o-ring is in order.
Old 11-27-2005, 04:38 PM
  #19  
viperbob
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Just as an FYI, the part number for the gasket on the sending unit is 993 207 226 00.

Good luck...
Old 11-27-2005, 06:26 PM
  #20  
JasonAndreas
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Originally Posted by Gregory993
Just went out into the driveway and saw a few oil spots again...hmm, I suspect it's coming from the oil level sending unit on the tank, I tightened it up last night when I did the oil change.
You have way too much oil in the tank, by at least 1-2 quarts. If the engine was cold the oil level shouldn't be anywhere near the oil level sender opening on the oil tank. The next time you change your oil just dump in 8-9 quarts and then let the car idle for 10-15 minutes until its warm and the oil temperature reaches the 194F mark. Then start pouring in oil slowly, pausing every 1/4 - 1/2 quart for 30 seconds. While your doing this watch the oil level gauge on the dashboard through the rear window. You don't want the level to reach more than halfway on the gauge while at a temperature of 194F. If the tank is filled any higher at that temperature you will end up with oil in the intake manifold when the oil gets hotter. The dash gauge is just as accurate as the dipstick, they are located right next to each other in the oil tank. Usually owners misread the dipstick, not waiting for the oil to reach proper temperature or reading the wrong side of the stick (i was guilty of this). They have the opposite problem that you have, they're probably running one-two quarts too low.
Old 11-27-2005, 09:20 PM
  #21  
Gregory993
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
You have way too much oil in the tank, by at least 1-2 quarts. If the engine was cold the oil level shouldn't be anywhere near the oil level sender opening on the oil tank...
Yup, sounds like you've nailed it. We were at the shop and looked online briefly at "oil capacity" and read 12qts...that's what I put in. Got to 10qts and it was at the top of the filler neck. I figured it had to be bled or run through the system for the extra 2 quarts. I had the lower spark plugs out anyhow so I cranked it over until I got pressure and the level went down, then put the last two quarts in. I'm over filled for sure then.

I guess I need to suck out some oil now.



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