temperature guage - what's too hot
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dave,
I have used 2 small Mocal coolers coolers mounted in the front bumper area and have been pleased with the performance. I'm not sure if they are as effective as Mark's setup, but my temps stay about the 9:00 postion even during a 90 minute enduro in 80+ temps.
I bought mine through a Rennlist connection in Florida who designed a kit around the solution with instructions, all the mounting parts, and hoses for quite a bit less than the Cargraphic solution. If you are interested send me a PM and I'll connect you with the guy. He treated me very well because one of the hoses started leaking after about 3 months or so and he immediately replaced it and I have had no problems since then.
-Skip
I have used 2 small Mocal coolers coolers mounted in the front bumper area and have been pleased with the performance. I'm not sure if they are as effective as Mark's setup, but my temps stay about the 9:00 postion even during a 90 minute enduro in 80+ temps.
I bought mine through a Rennlist connection in Florida who designed a kit around the solution with instructions, all the mounting parts, and hoses for quite a bit less than the Cargraphic solution. If you are interested send me a PM and I'll connect you with the guy. He treated me very well because one of the hoses started leaking after about 3 months or so and he immediately replaced it and I have had no problems since then.
-Skip
#18
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: California (Hillsborough)
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Can oil 'weight' affect the temperature? I have no basis for saying this, but it seems that maybe a more viscous oil will heat up more than a heavier oil...just a thought.
AC
AC
#20
Dave,
Before considering unplugging the temp sending unit on the oil cooler, mounting a manual switch, or mounting an auxillary oil cooler, have you tested your oil cooler resistor? The resistor controls low and high-speed oil cooler fan operation. If the resistor is blown then the fan will only come on at the high-speed fan actuation temperature, which is approximately 248. Therefore, maintaining temperatures around 248 could mean the resistor is gone causing your oil temps to bounce off the high-speed fan operation temperature.
The test just requires 4 or 5 inches of reasonable gauge wire to jumper the points in the fuse box and can be done start-to-finish in less than 5 minutes. And while you're in the fuse box you should also check the a/c condensor resistor. You can cause some costly damage to the a/c system if that overheats, and of course, you have no gauge to inform you of the temperature at which the a/c condensor is operating.
Both of these ceramic resistors are common failures. In fact, I just replaced both of my resistors 3 months ago. And my oil temperatures were similar to yours. Subsequent to the replacement the oil temperature is down significantly (and the a/c is much better!).
Follow the first link provided by Kelly to p-car.com (can we ever thank Robin enough!!) to get the specifics on the relays to test, the points to jump, and, if necessary, replacement of the resistors.
Regards,
Before considering unplugging the temp sending unit on the oil cooler, mounting a manual switch, or mounting an auxillary oil cooler, have you tested your oil cooler resistor? The resistor controls low and high-speed oil cooler fan operation. If the resistor is blown then the fan will only come on at the high-speed fan actuation temperature, which is approximately 248. Therefore, maintaining temperatures around 248 could mean the resistor is gone causing your oil temps to bounce off the high-speed fan operation temperature.
The test just requires 4 or 5 inches of reasonable gauge wire to jumper the points in the fuse box and can be done start-to-finish in less than 5 minutes. And while you're in the fuse box you should also check the a/c condensor resistor. You can cause some costly damage to the a/c system if that overheats, and of course, you have no gauge to inform you of the temperature at which the a/c condensor is operating.
Both of these ceramic resistors are common failures. In fact, I just replaced both of my resistors 3 months ago. And my oil temperatures were similar to yours. Subsequent to the replacement the oil temperature is down significantly (and the a/c is much better!).
Follow the first link provided by Kelly to p-car.com (can we ever thank Robin enough!!) to get the specifics on the relays to test, the points to jump, and, if necessary, replacement of the resistors.
Regards,
Last edited by Cy; 11-17-2005 at 08:54 PM.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Skip - I'll send you a PM.
AC - You're right. I'm using Mobil 1 20/50. Or is it 10/50.
Ray - Couldn't agree more.
Cy - I'll do that. Thanks. I suppose those might be more relevant for around town driving ... there was certainly lots of air getting to the one oil cooler on the track ... but it was still getting too hot ... and that's why I was interested in asking guys that drive a lot on the track if they've mounted 2nd coolers. But even around town, I've thought it was running a bit too hot (around 9 o'clock), so I'm glad you pointed me in the direction of testing the resistors.
Thanks guys.
AC - You're right. I'm using Mobil 1 20/50. Or is it 10/50.
Ray - Couldn't agree more.
Cy - I'll do that. Thanks. I suppose those might be more relevant for around town driving ... there was certainly lots of air getting to the one oil cooler on the track ... but it was still getting too hot ... and that's why I was interested in asking guys that drive a lot on the track if they've mounted 2nd coolers. But even around town, I've thought it was running a bit too hot (around 9 o'clock), so I'm glad you pointed me in the direction of testing the resistors.
Thanks guys.
#22
Rennlist Member
If you can manage a bit of wrenching and fabrication on your own call Elephant Racing and ask them about the parts you need to make your own cooler. They can give you everthing you need for about $700. That includes a factory oil cooler.
Tasks you will have to accomplish:
1. Fabricate your own tray adapter
2. Cut the hoses to length
3. Fit the ends into the hoses and mark thier locations
4. Take the hoses with the markings to a hydraulic shop and have the fittings crimped onto the hoses.
5. Install the hoses, tray and cooler
6. Pat yourself on the back and pocket the better part of a new set of Hoosiers.
Time? One weekend well spent.
Tasks you will have to accomplish:
1. Fabricate your own tray adapter
2. Cut the hoses to length
3. Fit the ends into the hoses and mark thier locations
4. Take the hoses with the markings to a hydraulic shop and have the fittings crimped onto the hoses.
5. Install the hoses, tray and cooler
6. Pat yourself on the back and pocket the better part of a new set of Hoosiers.
Time? One weekend well spent.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
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Dave: If the car's a long term keeper I'd use an extra cooler for Florida driving even if I wasn't tracking. The auxillary cooler made a large difference in my track only 993. We can compare reading the next time we're together.
Jack
Jack
Last edited by pedsurg; 11-17-2005 at 11:58 PM. Reason: spelling
#24
Rennlist Member
Oil Cooler
I installed the Cargraphic last year...on a very hot I can get the needle a wee bit past the 9:00 o'clock mark on a short track...but let's remember, this is a somewhat sloppy analog gauge. I have not had it calibrated. And, I am not out there any longer than 20 to 30 minutes
If it is a long track such as California Speedway...no worries. The needle is below the 9:00 o'clock mark.
The beauty to the Cargraphics unti, it comes in a kit, ready to go. Everything bolts in. My mechanic recomended the aluminum crush washers for the oil lines when installing the unit. Remember you have to take the front bumper cover off the car to install the cooler...you don't want to install the cooler and then see some oil weeping a few weeks later. Don't ask me why I know this.
This means the bumper cover has to come off AGAIN and the lines retightened.
If you want a clean easy solution...the Cargraphics should do the trick! Good luck with the project.
If it is a long track such as California Speedway...no worries. The needle is below the 9:00 o'clock mark.
The beauty to the Cargraphics unti, it comes in a kit, ready to go. Everything bolts in. My mechanic recomended the aluminum crush washers for the oil lines when installing the unit. Remember you have to take the front bumper cover off the car to install the cooler...you don't want to install the cooler and then see some oil weeping a few weeks later. Don't ask me why I know this.
This means the bumper cover has to come off AGAIN and the lines retightened.
If you want a clean easy solution...the Cargraphics should do the trick! Good luck with the project.
#25
King of Cool
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dave,
Where in Florida you live?
As you can see I'm in South Florida and if you're close you're welcomed to take a look at my set-up, ask questions etc.
Where in Florida you live?
As you can see I'm in South Florida and if you're close you're welcomed to take a look at my set-up, ask questions etc.
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Alan. Thanks Martin. I'll do a little more research and decide which way to go. This thread has been very helpful to me ... I've pretty much confirmed that these cars need additional cooling when driven hard on the track (which I suppose any idiot would have known). And I've gotten some valuable recommendations.
Again, my thanks to all.
Jack - See you next time at Sebring and we can compare temps.
Again, my thanks to all.
Jack - See you next time at Sebring and we can compare temps.