In living color...
G50 Shifting Mechanisim Internal Trans Setup
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From: Home of Little League!
Chris,
The reinforcement bars are on all of them, I removed mine (transmission)this winter. If you are going to rebuild it let me know I'd love to lend a hand here as I am eager to see one of these in person opened up. I'm up in Williamsport, not far away, so I lend a helping hand anytime for a Rennlister (once you join) Hah!
Let me know,
Andy
The reinforcement bars are on all of them, I removed mine (transmission)this winter. If you are going to rebuild it let me know I'd love to lend a hand here as I am eager to see one of these in person opened up. I'm up in Williamsport, not far away, so I lend a helping hand anytime for a Rennlister (once you join) Hah!
Let me know,
Andy
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From: Kauai, Hawaii
Originally Posted by vuugti
I'm up in Williamsport, not far away, so I lend a helping hand anytime for a Rennlister (once you join)
Sounds like too good an offer to pass up.
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OK, now what :)
Listers,
I've got the trans up on the workstand, and started basic disassembly. So far only the front nose has been removed. The news is _good_ so far, I guess, the gears and synchros look fine and the needle/roller bearings here are still intact. So next step is to get my hands on the special tools needed to go further. These appear to be input shaft locker 9253, two different pullers 9251/9284 (I might have something comparable to this in the toolbox now), an "assembling sleeve" 9255 and the "pressure piece" 9256. Anyone willing to rent these? I am willing to pony up the rental fee!
The obligatory images follow.
Chris
I've got the trans up on the workstand, and started basic disassembly. So far only the front nose has been removed. The news is _good_ so far, I guess, the gears and synchros look fine and the needle/roller bearings here are still intact. So next step is to get my hands on the special tools needed to go further. These appear to be input shaft locker 9253, two different pullers 9251/9284 (I might have something comparable to this in the toolbox now), an "assembling sleeve" 9255 and the "pressure piece" 9256. Anyone willing to rent these? I am willing to pony up the rental fee!
The obligatory images follow.
Chris
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The problem you have here is not normal. There are 7 needle roller bearing assemblies in the transmission. Each 'gear' is made up of a gearset consisting of a gear splined onto a shaft, and a gear that rolls independently of its shaft by means of the needle roller bearings. So you have 6 needle bearings plus 1 for reverse.
In the pix you see reverse, 5th, and 6th starting from the nose end of the trans. The reverse needle bearing has a metal cage so I very seriously doubt it is bad. 2nd gear also has a metal cage while the others are plastic cages which can fail.
The thing is though that the plastic cage needles don't fail for no reason. The fail only if they get no oil or if the trans oil gets so hot the cages melt. The trans oil is NEVER going to get that hot unless there is something very wrong. Your next step should be to remove the side cover and differential. Then you can see if the ring and pinion is hurt. That is the only way the generate the heat needed to melt the cages.
If the ring and pinion looks good, then check the plastic oiling tray which is just above the differential inside the large part of the case. If it is broken or gone, then the 3rd or 4th gear needle bearings are the problem. Either way you are going to need some special tools to disassemble the trans enough to fix it.
Hope that helps,
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
In the pix you see reverse, 5th, and 6th starting from the nose end of the trans. The reverse needle bearing has a metal cage so I very seriously doubt it is bad. 2nd gear also has a metal cage while the others are plastic cages which can fail.
The thing is though that the plastic cage needles don't fail for no reason. The fail only if they get no oil or if the trans oil gets so hot the cages melt. The trans oil is NEVER going to get that hot unless there is something very wrong. Your next step should be to remove the side cover and differential. Then you can see if the ring and pinion is hurt. That is the only way the generate the heat needed to melt the cages.
If the ring and pinion looks good, then check the plastic oiling tray which is just above the differential inside the large part of the case. If it is broken or gone, then the 3rd or 4th gear needle bearings are the problem. Either way you are going to need some special tools to disassemble the trans enough to fix it.
Hope that helps,
Chris Cervelli
Premier Motorsports
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From: yorba linda, ca
I have to agree with Mr. Cervelli. Remove the diff and have a close look at that bofore diving into the next section of trans. You may find more 'bits' at the bottom of the diff 'cavity' for the lack of a better term. Good your making progress!
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Chris C - thanks VERY much for your excellent reply, I really appreciate all the info there.
At this point I am now sending this trans off to the local shop for the rest of the job. I have only so much time for car "fun", and since I just scored a set of 3.8 p&c's on ebay I think I will take that time to remove the '87 3.6, disassemble and "upgrade" it with a modest boost in displacement and some streetable cams. New thread beckons!
Cheers,
Chris
At this point I am now sending this trans off to the local shop for the rest of the job. I have only so much time for car "fun", and since I just scored a set of 3.8 p&c's on ebay I think I will take that time to remove the '87 3.6, disassemble and "upgrade" it with a modest boost in displacement and some streetable cams. New thread beckons!
Cheers,
Chris
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Update: Spider gears on differential failed. Damage seems confined to R&P. Used Diff $400 from local shop, plus bolts, bearings etc. Net OOP will be close to $2K 
Chris
P.S. Joined Rennlist this weekend, but Jen has not updated my user status here yet. FWIW, I was a "founding" paid member back when porschelist converted.
Chris
P.S. Joined Rennlist this weekend, but Jen has not updated my user status here yet. FWIW, I was a "founding" paid member back when porschelist converted.
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From: Austin TX
Call Brian Copans in Cincy and get a better diff, he often has motorsport or guard diffs that he has rebuilt. Or get a new Torsen diff from Guard. Why take chances with another factory street car diff?
