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Need Help: DIY SAI Flush Problem

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Old 08-31-2005, 03:48 AM
  #31  
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An alternative to the J&B is BG-44K. My local P-car store carries it. Its a little spendy at $15/can but it is a great fuel system cleaner.

Similar warnings.... Don't get on paint, don't let is touch your skin very long, etc.

I used it for my cleanout and it worked great.

Kelly, congrats on #6!!
Old 08-31-2005, 09:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by tom97c4s
It would be great if you do do a DIY on Pcar
Kelly -

Have you considered doing a full play-by-play DIY with pictures, steps, etc.? I realize this thread is close, but it would be awesome to see it from start to finish with as much detail as you can provide to help some of us burgeoning DIYs.
Old 08-31-2005, 03:34 PM
  #33  
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Kelly,

Thanks for the additional info and the photos. Now I "GET IT". Those straps are an excellent solution for plugging the exhaust ports.

I'll be assembling a package containing the crowsfoot wrench, five plugs, five straps, ten nuts, and an air source fitting. When I complete the SAI cleanout (hopefully this weekend), I'll be glad to loan out my kit.

Scott
Old 08-31-2005, 04:20 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by campbesl
Kelly,

Thanks for the additional info and the photos. Now I "GET IT". Those straps are an excellent solution for plugging the exhaust ports.

I'll be assembling a package containing the crowsfoot wrench, five plugs, five straps, ten nuts, and an air source fitting. When I complete the SAI cleanout (hopefully this weekend), I'll be glad to loan out my kit.

Scott
Scott,

What are your ideas on an air source fitting? I'm thnking of having an air line connector welded into the opened up SAI valve bottom.
Old 08-31-2005, 04:32 PM
  #35  
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Kelly,

I like your idea of a weldment for an air source connector. I was going to use the rig described in the other active SAI cleanout thread - the one where the Porsche Addict used PVC pipe, heater hose and some pipe clamps. Your's is certainly more elegant, durable and probably airtight. Maybe I'll try that route although, given the potential differences in materials (brass connector and aluminum valve body) it may have to be brazed versus welded.

Scott
Old 08-31-2005, 04:49 PM
  #36  
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Scott,

I'll let you know how it turns out. I was going to take the parts to work and ask the welder there to figure out what needs to be done.

Reason I'm thinking of welding is anything less than an airtight fit can really get messy when you start pressurizing the system w/ a blocked passage and the air starts leaking back through the fittings, especially if they are press fit. Vaporized cleaning agent, no matter what you use, cannot be healthy to inhale.
Old 08-31-2005, 05:00 PM
  #37  
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Kelly,

Excellent thinking! I got a face full of carb cleaner. I had goggles on but it was still pretty unpleasant! Let me tell you, I had to flush a lot of beer through my system to be sure that toxins didn't do damage.

Tonight I'm taking another look at my parts with your approach in mind.

Scott
Old 08-31-2005, 05:05 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by campbesl
Let me tell you, I had to flush a lot of beer through my system to be sure that toxins didn't do damage.
I've heard flushing from the body cannot be accomplished in a day, so you might have to continue for days or even weeks to rid your body of evil toxins using your beer method.

I'll let you know on the welded fitting.
Old 08-31-2005, 07:31 PM
  #39  
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Nice going Kelly, great write-up, congrats on getting that cleared up! Definitely will keep this thread in mind, I'm < 5K miles away from 57, hopefully I won't need this. Aloha!
Old 09-01-2005, 12:29 AM
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Troy,

I used to be a naysayer and looked at shops that promoted early changing out of SAI valves as conservative estimates. After what I've been through at 62k miles, I'd suggest a regular changing of the SAI valve at half that interval or 30k miles, from what I've seen of mine... and if you are going to change the SAI valve, you might as well flush the ports at the same time. I would be very leery of waiting till the CEL light came on. To me, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" that thing will go off. It's just a **** poor design.

Aloha, dude!
Old 09-02-2005, 12:15 PM
  #41  
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In the continuing path to SAI cleanout, yesterday I 'rigged' a system for pressurizing the SAI system. Following the lead of the other SAI cleanout thread I got a piece of PVC pipe and threaded it into the SAI inlet port. I then used fittings to connect a couple of feet long piece of air hose and terminated the air hose with a male quick disconnect. Now I can shoot solvent into the system then supply air simply by plugging the female quick disconnect of the compressor air hose to the SAI hose. This has the added benefit of no splashback.

Kelly - how did your weld project go?

Scott
Old 09-02-2005, 05:01 PM
  #42  
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It was just completed last night at work and I haven't had time to try it yet. Will post a pic of the "tool" this evening or tomorrow.
Old 09-02-2005, 05:20 PM
  #43  
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As soon as I get done with my "chores" on the '84 Merz 300SD (biodiesel) daily driver I'll be doing the SAI flush. A thousand thanks to those that have led the way! I guess Darwin was a Porsche owner as the techniques keep evolving and getting better and better.
Got a question though. Are the deposits the result of oil,or are they just the normal byproducts of combustion that are finding their way into the ports. If the latter is the case is the faulty check valve to blame as it is letting this "backflow" occur.
We know the symptoms, but what is the cause?
Old 09-02-2005, 07:09 PM
  #44  
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Book marked this thread for my winter car project..
Old 09-03-2005, 07:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Reynard38
Are the deposits the result of oil,or are they just the normal byproducts of combustion that are finding their way into the ports. If the latter is the case is the faulty check valve to blame as it is letting this "backflow" occur.
We know the symptoms, but what is the cause?
In my case, the blockage in the passage was at least a couple of inches up from the SAI port in the exhaust port. It is indeed black, hard, crusty stuff. FWIW, the original valve that I removed and that is seen in the photos cut in half, was still operating as a one way valve when I removed it.

The pictures show the bottom portion of the cut SAI valve w/ an air line fitting welded into it. The other pictures show how I intended to connect the air line directly to the valve once the valve has been reinstalled. Hope it works... haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
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