Mark in Baltimore

What the?!

Sorry to hear of your travails, Tom. Hope the wallet hit isn't too bad.

mooty

ugly...
very sorry to see that hole in the case, tom.
i guess this pretty much ends the season for you as i assume it will take 2 months or so to wrap it up and then we'll hit rain season again. i hope to see you and the turtle as soon as you have it patched up.

good luck.

viperbob

So Tom, should I send that 997S engine back then? I thought that is what you asked for today....

Flying Finn

Sorry to hear Tom.

As soon as I saw you post I though TT motor (to "spice up" things a bit) but since you're staying stock, that's out of the picture.
Good luck with the re-build.

Chuck W.

Steve...If you do not track your 993 is this still an issue.

ventoGT

Steve I would also like to know what the story is on the 3.6 and oiling issues at higer RPMs....I tend to operate my car at higher RPMs once the motor is warmed up and don't need my only car's engine to go ka-boom on me

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Chuck:

Not to worry, sir. This is no issue for street use.


Cole:

This is a somewhat complex subject and many things can be taken out of context. If one operates these engines within their design parameters without overrevving the motor, they are VERY durable.

Some people can run into trouble when missing a shift (where the rev limiter is useless) or using the engine as a brake to slow the car down. That puts very high loads into the rods and rod bolts.

For cars that see a great deal of track use (whether its DE or competition), we like to perform some upgrades strictly for the sake of durability under those kinds of circumstances.

Please feel free to call me for more information, if you need it.

infinii

Would you not recommend downshifting (for purpose of engine braking) during normal daily driving?

nman413

Tom, saw your car yesterday. Sorry to see it such condition. I feel for you. On the upside you could turn the car into a 3.8 RS monster now

the_buch

I am also very interested in this aspect of the topic ... and I'm sorry about the failure Tom - keep us posted once you have a diagnosis

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

LOL,..I recommend using the engine to accelerate the car out of a corner and beyond. I think one uses the brakes to slow the car to the corner entry speeds that you are comfortable with.

Brake pads/rotors, etc are really far cheaper than engine parts,....

Tom W

I took the car to Jerry Woods last night. They also said that the #5 rod bearing failure is usually due to insufficient oiling. The bearing burns and seizes then the rod breaks and all hell breaks loose (as in ka-boom). They will begin tearing the engine down in the next day or two to see if they can determine the exact cause and determine what course to pursue for the rebuild/replacement. (I had full oil and good pressure when it died.)

Mark in Baltimore

The brakes should be used for slowing the car down. Clutch and gears are used to propel the car. A clutch job is ten times more expensive than replacing pads.

If you're going to downshift, you should learn how to heel-and-toe so that you can be as gentle as possible with the car.

Fred R. C4S

I once did a DE at Road America with Derek Bell as one of the instructors. Part of the program consisted of him driving your car, showing you the line and proper technique. When we reached the braking zone for corner 5, Derek skip shifted from 5th directly to either 2nd or 3rd under HEAVY braking. When I asked why he didn't go down the box gear by gear, he pointed out the brake pads were by FAR the cheapest, most reliable, and fool proof way to slow a car. Particularly a street car with a nonprofessional driver.

Cheers,

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Fred:

Great advice from one of THE all-time pro's.

Although thats what I've done for many years, I'd just caution anyone that going from 5th to 2nd (or 3rd) does increase the risk of selecting the wrong gear, particularly when one is not paying close attention or suffering from a slight bout of the "Red Mist",......... One must ensure that the shifter and all its components are in perfect shape to prevent an expensive overrev.

Thats what really places huge tensile loads on the connecting rods and bolts.