ceboyd

o.k. My car is a 1996 993 (so it has the stupid drive block crapola)


Anyway, this morning I was parked at the McDonalds for breakfast before a day at the track and when I pressed the button, the doors wouldn't unlock.. I heard a slight sound that sounded a lot like the start of the door lock/unlock sound I hear but it was incomplete/weak...

I eventually got into the car after the alarm stopped (because initially using the key was worthless and would NOT even unlock the door while the alarm was going off)... I also eventually pressed the button enough times to get the alarm to disarm and allow me to start the car...

Needless to say, i've left my key IN the ignition since this morning since I am afraid I won't be able to get into or get the car started again.


I also noticed that the door lock/unlock button on the center console will NOT function at all (no sound at all... NOTHING)... this is the same if the car is running (and in park) or while driving.. and I know I've locked the car while moving before and this time It does nothing...

So I wonder what the exact issue is... since the button doesn't work, could it be a relay or fuse? I just don't know where to start looking??

Anyone????

cabrio993

How old is your car battery? (not the remote's)... I heard that a weak battery can make the immobilizer and the drive block system do weird stuff like that.

fbfisher

If you push the button on the fob and the red LED on the fob lights and the red LEDs in the door flash then the remote is communicating with the imobilizer. If the remote works but the LED in the doors don't then the remote is not communicating with the imobilizer.

My similar problem turned out to be a problem with the key switch - it "thought" the key was in the ignition when it wasn't - or vice-versa, I forget. Hard to diagnose but the finally figured it out after replacing all of the obvious expensive electronic parts under the passenger seat first - thankfully under extended warranty.

kkim

Chris,

Sounds like your car's locks won't opererate if you use the remote or the center console lock switch, is that correct?

MrRoboto

I had the same thing happen to me. I changed the alarm brain unit under the passenger seat and everything works fine now. good luck.

willisit

Mine is doing something similar. It will unlock on the fob - but not lock or alarm. I have to use the keys to lock the car up.. it's confusing but I've yet to get it looked at.

Eric in Chicago

A low car battery (less than 10V) will cause this to happen. A weak key fob battery could also cause this but my money is on the car battery. In any case, I would always carry a fob remote battery and a small screw driver in my glove box because when this battery goes, your really screwed.
I once had the same problem Chris had, gone to a party,did not know the battery was weak, could not open the door. Used the key, set off the alarm which proceded to drain the battery even more. Got the car started and charged the battery over night, problem went away. (bought a new battery to put my mind at ease) While your at it, check your alt. belt tension to make sure your elect. system is charging your battery

ceboyd

YES!! That is correct!!!

ceboyd

...except I don't understand how the 'alarm brain' would be connected to the door lock/unlock feature????

....since the problem is definately related to locking and unlocking the doors considering the center console lock/unlock button will NOT function at all (so it will obviously NOT light up red when locked).. and makes NO SOUND at all when pressed...


So is a weak car battery possibly related to the door lock/unlock feature as well?????????

kkim

Perhaps the lock module is going bad? Past thread from Chuck A.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=lock+module

Try to PM him and see how he resolved his problem.

Good luck....

PS- Have you measured your battery voltage? I do seem to remember posts about low battery voltage causing such problems as Eric has described.

ceboyd

o.k. well, My optima battery is 3 years old... and seems strong but I have NOT measured the actual voltage on it either...

Anyway, I found part number 928 018 260 03

I hope that is the lock control module!!! I'm going to find out how much a new one costs (holding my breath)...

ceboyd

o.k. I'm going to check the voltage on the battery tonight.. but I seriously doubt the battery is causing the problem since it is a stong optima... and the car started just fine without hesitation.... ...but I want to rule it out before spending the money...

ceboyd

o.k. well now that my car has been sitting over 24 hours with the key in the ignition in the garage, I tested the volts on the battery just minutes ago... it showed 12.35 ..so it isn't below 10....


..and one of the junkyards by me just sold one of those modules for just $35 + tax last week.. ARG!!! I missed out... but I located one (I HOPE) so keeping my fingers crossed that it will work out..

..this being unemployeed and getting these kind of surprises is no fun

Chuck A.

Ditto for me.

FlyYellow

i would consider taking the central locking brain and troubleshooting it. if you read a post from nile13 he documented what pulses create the lock and unlock triggers on the brain. use a multimeter and see if it works. if it doesn't at least you know that you must replace the brain. if it does work then you know you have a different problem.

hope that helps.

cheers,
boris