Sumtoc

Have a red 1995 C2, body is straight, interior in great shape, leaks no oil (at all), runs well. But the paint is fading, has lots of very fine scratches, and someone apparently used a bra for some time since there is a visible difference in that area. There a several small light white stains, one near the windshield, almost like an unfriendly liquid on the car. Need to clean all this up, so a couple of questions:

- It appears that there is no clear coat on this car, is this the old style straight paint?
- Thought about using polishing compound but not very confident in my ability to do the entire car without screwing up. Are there any tips or gotchas? It may not be enough in any case.....
- Spoke with my paint and body guy. Been using him for about 15 years. He also does a lot of show cars, etc. He suggested that the car be wet sanded and resealed, cost of about $500. Anybody every have this done? Sounds like a deal if I can get back to good clean paint then lay on multiple coats of Zaino...

Thanks

Arena993

I have detailed numerous cars. The pigment in the paint is fading. I would try a body shop or high end detailer that has the 3M Trizact System. This is a system that uses a DA (Dual Action) sander with 3000 grit paper. Wet sand the whole car to remove any top layer dead paint. If the car is clear coat and the paint has faded underneath the clear coat there isn't much you can do. An easy way to tell if the car has a 2 stage paint (clearcoat) is when they wet sand it you will see a milky substance, that is the clear coat. If it is red than you have the single stage. I would try this approach first. IMHO I use the Trzact systtem here it makes for a much better and even job.

Ron

I had a 1983 MB that was that burgundy color, not red though, it was single stage paint, i.e., no clearcoat. The car was wet sanded and their was no way to bring the shine back and keep it shiny for more than a day or so. I was told the paint was dead, whatever that means. The car was 15 years old when I started having the problem with the paint.

Before I did that 3M Trizact System I would have them just try a small area and see how long it stay shiny. It been my understanding that red paint oxidizes more readily that most other colors.

BS911

My Guards Red 95 has the same problem. Most noticeable on the front hood and upper fender areas. It is a single stage paint - as indicated by the red on the polishing cloth. With a very fresh coat of wax it looks fantastic but as soon as the wax starts wearing, it has almost a cloudy appearance to it. I've tried on some discreet areas everything from polishing compound, to rupping compound, to light wet sanding and repolishing. It all only helps AFTER the last coat of polish or wax goes on. The cloudiness always comes back though. Here is one tip I found to REALLY help in longevity of the shine - courtesy of Zaino Bros wax. When your car is clean and well waxed you should have a better shine than normal, of course. When you wash your car, unless it is filthy, only use water and a VERY wet, white, pure cotton towel. Keep the towel good and sopping wet and just lightly use it while spraying in front of the towel to just rinse/wash your car. It is all you need to get the little bit of grime and dirt off but won't wash away so much wax as soap does. This helps me go at least a little bit longer before it looks dull again. Hope this helps.

But of course, I also think the only way to get it back is to get it resprayed or otherwise handled professionally.

Monique

I use Meguiar Deep Crystal Polish followed by Deep Crystal Carnauba wax.

But the garage queen is also in her own pyjamas.

The_Phantom

I've never tried this, but Zymol makes a wax that has either red or black pigment in it for paint that is faded. Has anyone here tried it? You might consider trying it as it would be a harmless experiment.

http://www.calcarcover.com/product.aspx?id=451&cid=110

901aero

The new clearcoat sounds like the way to go - especially for the $$. But that just sounds too cheap to me. I have a shop, mostly high end street rods, customs, restos, etc. I can hardly provide quality materials (we use Sikkens exclusively) for the cost your shop quoted. This is a question we get asked often when the customer's favorite car's finish begins to lose it's original luster. "Can you just clearcoat it again?" Truth is when it's all said and done, a clearcoat job is almost, if not just as involved, as a complete color and clear respray. By the time you disassemble the car, mirrors, door handles, trim, etc. you might as well start with a fresh base coat to assure the results you're expecting. If the car is not disassembled I don't think you are going to be happy with the job.

Sumtoc

No, the sealer was not a clearcoat, did not mean to imply that. It is like a base polish. They did say that for the wet sanding they would be removing some parts, trim, etc. But no spraying of anything like a clearcoat.

Suspect the $500 is still a pretty good deal but have done lots of business with him in the past due to 2 teenagers and a few mishaps by the wife. Might be cutting me a bit of a break on this since it is out of pocket and not insurance work like the rest.

FlyYellow

often times paint can be brought back to a vibrant shine. i wouldn't try to mask it with a sealer or anything of the sort. Rather i would look for a real high end detailer that knows how to machine polish correctly with the proper products.

i suspect if you tell us your location someone may be able to guide you to a great place.

I had a similar problem with my car when i first bought it. The guy i brought it to transformed the car back to an impecable shine. It cost $250.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Boris

amfp

I recall a similiar question from the PCA web site. Below is the answer as it relates to a 944, which is same for 993's single stage paints. To me, P21S cleaner or 3M cleaner with Blue Magic is the best way to aggressively polish paint. I am not smart enough to use a buffer properly without burning edges of paint, so using this combination shown below with cotton towel strips in a very small area - like 8" by 8". Doing small area a little at a time works wonders - compared to panel by panel.

To do this job properly it takes maybe 12-20 hours of labor. After completion would need to the wax car. I personally found final treatment with P21 wax to be the best based on my 993 concours and recent Parade win.

From PCA Q&A website:

"The guards red on your 944 if all original is now 20 years old. The paint is single stage baked enamel, it will respond to polishing if original. I use a combination of P21S paintwork cleanser and a bit of Blue Magic polish. This combination will also work on refinished panels that have faded or have water spot damage. When the refinished panels are rebuffed to original lustre you must avoid long term exposure to sun and rain. the heat from your engine will also hasten the fade. If the color fades back in 2 weeks of use it may be time to refinish. Original paint will hold a gloss much longer but tiny surface spiderwebing will signal the end of your paints lifecycle."

Monique

If you use an orbital polisher such as Porter Cable 7424 or a Bosch 400 AE, you'll be fine.

IMO, the choice of the product is individual. It is the process which is important.

Use a polish then a Carnauba wax.

TAKE YOUR TIME... and unless you die on top of an orbital polisher, you will do a fine job. If the surface gets warm, then you are not moving enough. Start east/west then go north/south.

amfp

"IMO, the choice of the product is individual. It is the process which is important"

Well said. These high line products are all very close. It is the preparation and process that is always most important.

901aero

Sorry I got it all wrong!! Sounds like the other guys all gave good advice. Good luck. IMO the most important factor is that you trust your guy and have had good results in the past.

Monique

Nah.. you didn't get it all wrong. Some folks just have different views.

If you want to do your detailing don't hesitate... just go slow and light and use a very mild polish.

Red rooster

Guards Red , the best fading paint ever used.I went through this PIA , buffed and sweated for hours .Car looked good for about a week.Sure if its kept in the dark, the color stays good but in the real world ? In the end a total paint job with some modern " this wont happen again " paint and all was fixed.
I would advise against spending more than $10 on any other magic fix !Save your dough for a repaint!!
Geoff