Update: B&M SSK, Gear Oil, etc.
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Update: B&M SSK, Gear Oil, etc.
So a few weeks ago, I installed my new B&M short shift kit (see one of my previous posts about some of this at the time of install) and it went well and all except:
1- I noticed that I had a slight leak at the shifter rod input seal (at the snout of the gearbox),
2- I still had some sloppiness in my shifter assembly,
3- first to second gear and third down to second sometimes crunched (very rare)
I decided the following:
1- I had to change that seal and ordered it from my local dealer (cheap part, $16.00 I think)
2- I had to find that play in the shifting mechanism although everything seemed visually fine (and I compared my car to other 993s and they have the same play and slop),
3- This concerned me although I realize that whatever the problem is probably didn't rear its ugly head until the short shifter was installed (additional stress on the gearbox due to increased leverage on the shifter assembly, etc).
Here's what I've done so far:
1- Changed the seal (easy to remove and replace)
2- I noticed that the forward shifter support rod connected toward the front of the car and terminated at a ball and socket mount that could cause some movement (play) but that felt solid and intact so I moved to the other rod, the one that most people replace with the Carrera RS shift rod. That had all the play thanks to a crappy rubber isolator that connected two shift rod halves. I decided that I would do away with the rubber isolator and replace it with some solid shims made from steel instead. I used washers and metal discs about 10mm thick drilled out to fit over the stock rubber isolator mounting bolts and connected the two ****er rod halves to create one solid rod (at far less cost than the RS shifter rod). WOW! What a difference! This is the way the car should have come from factory. Shifts are more precise, solid and more easily managed under hurried shifting. There is no additional vibration or noise caused by this mod. Unfortunately, I didn't have a camera handy but I'll go back in this week and snap some pics.
3- As stated in my previous post, I replaced whatever gear oil was in there with Motul synthetic (my friend is the local distributor) and that rare gear crunch into second is far more frequent. I might try a different gear oil and see if it helps.
1- I noticed that I had a slight leak at the shifter rod input seal (at the snout of the gearbox),
2- I still had some sloppiness in my shifter assembly,
3- first to second gear and third down to second sometimes crunched (very rare)
I decided the following:
1- I had to change that seal and ordered it from my local dealer (cheap part, $16.00 I think)
2- I had to find that play in the shifting mechanism although everything seemed visually fine (and I compared my car to other 993s and they have the same play and slop),
3- This concerned me although I realize that whatever the problem is probably didn't rear its ugly head until the short shifter was installed (additional stress on the gearbox due to increased leverage on the shifter assembly, etc).
Here's what I've done so far:
1- Changed the seal (easy to remove and replace)
2- I noticed that the forward shifter support rod connected toward the front of the car and terminated at a ball and socket mount that could cause some movement (play) but that felt solid and intact so I moved to the other rod, the one that most people replace with the Carrera RS shift rod. That had all the play thanks to a crappy rubber isolator that connected two shift rod halves. I decided that I would do away with the rubber isolator and replace it with some solid shims made from steel instead. I used washers and metal discs about 10mm thick drilled out to fit over the stock rubber isolator mounting bolts and connected the two ****er rod halves to create one solid rod (at far less cost than the RS shifter rod). WOW! What a difference! This is the way the car should have come from factory. Shifts are more precise, solid and more easily managed under hurried shifting. There is no additional vibration or noise caused by this mod. Unfortunately, I didn't have a camera handy but I'll go back in this week and snap some pics.
3- As stated in my previous post, I replaced whatever gear oil was in there with Motul synthetic (my friend is the local distributor) and that rare gear crunch into second is far more frequent. I might try a different gear oil and see if it helps.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
By the way, someone mentioned Redline Shockproof as an alternative to the Motul (to help with second gear crunching) but that it might be too heavy for climates that get cold. If I am not going to winter drive my car, do you think that it would be an issue?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I know most people use that Mobile 1 75/90 but do we know that it will help the 2nd gear crunch? I'll give it a try if I can't find the Redline locally.
Yes, that mod with the washers/shims is easy and makes a world of a difference.
Do it.
Yes, that mod with the washers/shims is easy and makes a world of a difference.
Do it.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I would recommend you try the Mobil 1 gear oil. I have it in now and compared to the Redline 75-90 that it replaced, I like it a lot better for smoothness and "cushiness" w/ regards to the shifting feel.
Please post some pics of your washer fix... sounds like something I need to try.
Thanks for sharing.
Please post some pics of your washer fix... sounds like something I need to try.
Thanks for sharing.
#6
Addict
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
I have tried both the Motul and Mobil One tranny fluids. Very similiar, the Mobil One is very slightly better in preventing the first to second gear crunch for those first few miles when cold, but a one Mississippi count is the best prevention.
It sure is nice that they do not have that sulfur stink!
It sure is nice that they do not have that sulfur stink!
#7
Alon,
Sounds like eliminating the rubber isolator did the trick. I think it was you I had discussed about replacing the ball and socket rod with a rod-end joint too. Sounds like that was unnecessary for you in removing the slop. I'll have to give your shims/washer trick a try also. Another concern I noticed with the B&M SSK was that after inverting the shift sliding mechanism I noticed there's some slight rubbing between the new shifter assembly and a hose/line that runs along side the shift tube (looks like maybe a vacuum line to the brake booster). Nothing major but I'm wondering over time if it could develop into a wear problem on that line. Did you notice this in your install?
Sounds like eliminating the rubber isolator did the trick. I think it was you I had discussed about replacing the ball and socket rod with a rod-end joint too. Sounds like that was unnecessary for you in removing the slop. I'll have to give your shims/washer trick a try also. Another concern I noticed with the B&M SSK was that after inverting the shift sliding mechanism I noticed there's some slight rubbing between the new shifter assembly and a hose/line that runs along side the shift tube (looks like maybe a vacuum line to the brake booster). Nothing major but I'm wondering over time if it could develop into a wear problem on that line. Did you notice this in your install?
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Pete: Thanks but I might try this Redline Shockproof and see what happens. As it is, I'm planning to tear down the gearbox this coming winter and throw in a set of euro-spec gears, fresh synchros and an RS lightweight flywheel (hopefully, if budget allows).
Chris: Yes, that was the conversation you and I were having in that other thread. I still love your idea and will probably do it one of these spare days but the shims/washer mod is fantastic and easy to do. I don;t remember the shifter assembly coming close to anything in the tunnel and I remember making sure of two things when I was under there:
1- that nothing hit anything else throughout the entire shift range of gears,
2- that the large rubber boot concealing everything still fit and stayed in place
Chris: Yes, that was the conversation you and I were having in that other thread. I still love your idea and will probably do it one of these spare days but the shims/washer mod is fantastic and easy to do. I don;t remember the shifter assembly coming close to anything in the tunnel and I remember making sure of two things when I was under there:
1- that nothing hit anything else throughout the entire shift range of gears,
2- that the large rubber boot concealing everything still fit and stayed in place
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I made the shims out of large nuts. I was away for the wekend so I'll try to take some pictures and document details this coming wekend for those who are interested. It's not fancy but it's solid and it works very well.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Alon
I was away for the wekend so I'll try to take some pictures and document details this coming wekend for those who are interested. It's not fancy but it's solid and it works very well.