Ballast resistors
#1
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Ballast resistors
I've been chasing a hot running condition and have narrowed the culprit to the Oil cooler fan ballast resistor.
While I'm in there, I thought I would replace the AC condenser ballas resistor as well.
Are these two parts identical?
I've checked PET and a part number shows (993.616.521.00) up for the Oil cooler resistor but not the AC resistor. Since they are both 0.45 ohms, I can assume they are interchageable..... I'd like to be sure before I order two of these bad boys.
Anybody else see this?
Thanks in advance!
Scott
While I'm in there, I thought I would replace the AC condenser ballas resistor as well.
Are these two parts identical?
I've checked PET and a part number shows (993.616.521.00) up for the Oil cooler resistor but not the AC resistor. Since they are both 0.45 ohms, I can assume they are interchageable..... I'd like to be sure before I order two of these bad boys.
Anybody else see this?
Thanks in advance!
Scott
#3
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Scott
BTDT. The resistors are indeed identical. There are many threads in the archives including some in the past week. There's also a long write-up at p-car.com. A Rennlist search would have been faster & better than the PET.
BTW, unfortunately there's no "while I'm in there," since the oil & AC resistors are in, respectively, the R & L fenders & involve totally separate jobs.
BTDT. The resistors are indeed identical. There are many threads in the archives including some in the past week. There's also a long write-up at p-car.com. A Rennlist search would have been faster & better than the PET.
BTW, unfortunately there's no "while I'm in there," since the oil & AC resistors are in, respectively, the R & L fenders & involve totally separate jobs.
#4
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If you're going to replace both I would suggest that you remove the bumper cover and clean both the oil cooler and the AC condenser at the same time. I've had to do that to replace a leaking AC condenser and found an astounding amount of rubbish (leaves, road litter, twigs and a very dried out dead bird) up against the oil cooler and condenser. There's a good DIY on p-car.com.
Last edited by Felix; 07-03-2005 at 11:58 AM.
#5
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Thanks guys!
Dan, I had a hard time deciphering the resistor quagmire in search....... And many thanks for the picture.
BTW, the "While I'm in there" is a tongue in cheek comment as the P-car writeup clearly explains how much a PITA this is going to be. I thought I would use some levity to convince myself to get started sooner rather than later.
Phelix, thanks for the tips. I'll keep my eye open for the dead bird.
Dan, I had a hard time deciphering the resistor quagmire in search....... And many thanks for the picture.
BTW, the "While I'm in there" is a tongue in cheek comment as the P-car writeup clearly explains how much a PITA this is going to be. I thought I would use some levity to convince myself to get started sooner rather than later.
Phelix, thanks for the tips. I'll keep my eye open for the dead bird.
#6
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I just did both a few nights ago. Took about 2.5 - 3 hours total to do both sides, no bumper removal. To be honest, I couldn't see how pulling the bumper would have made it easier. I'm sure it must, somehow, but I couldn't see it.
#7
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Pulling the bumper cover means you can get at things from the side and not just through the opening created by removing the liner. But I agree it's not a requirement
And cleaning the ducts can only be done with removing the bumper cover.
And cleaning the ducts can only be done with removing the bumper cover.
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#8
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I've done it too and think the bumper cover removal makes a major PITA just a bit of a chore (ie, it's much easier to get at everything with it off). I started my replacement without removal and after deciding I didn't want to lose all the skin on my hands, I pulled the cover and it became relatively easy.