993 (964 ,968 ) Odometer Repair DIY
#76
Thanks for the tips - I'll resolder the joints & try blowing it out again.
One thing I noticed with the new gears & the old gears is that they don't sit tight on the spindle - is this right?
When you push the large gear onto the motor spindle it is quite free to move up & down. I would have thought it should be a very tight fit so that the motor forces it to turn.
Similar with the little gear - this moves freely on the little plastic spindle that is part of the large gear.
The video seems to show it freely moving as they push it on, so maybe that's normal but I can't understand how the motor spindle makes the gear turn if it isn't firmly attached.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Gary.
One thing I noticed with the new gears & the old gears is that they don't sit tight on the spindle - is this right?
When you push the large gear onto the motor spindle it is quite free to move up & down. I would have thought it should be a very tight fit so that the motor forces it to turn.
Similar with the little gear - this moves freely on the little plastic spindle that is part of the large gear.
The video seems to show it freely moving as they push it on, so maybe that's normal but I can't understand how the motor spindle makes the gear turn if it isn't firmly attached.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Gary.
#77
Rennlist Member
I just did this a few weeks ago... man, removing the bezel/cup was PIA.
a) before you hit that compressed air can make sure to get most of the reachable-by-tweezer pieces out. Otherwise you will blow those pieces further into the assembly - hence tip (b)
b) the motor core can move around vertically as well. Before installing the new gears use tweezer and grab the spindle to lift/rotate/wiggle it a bit to make sure it moves freely. Why you asked? I buttoned up everything and the odo still wasn't working, went back in second time and found a small lodged piece
#78
Thanks for the tips.
During the first 5 mile run I did after re-installing it I noticed that the trip meter wasn't smooth (just slightly jerky).
But I just checked on google maps & the distance on the trip meter was exact.
I then stopped for about 30 mins & when I did the return journey the trip meter worked for about 1 mile & then froze (along with the odometer).
Speedo still works perfectly.
Does this help in narrowing down if it is likely something in the mechanism or a dry solder joint or something else?
Thanks for everyones help.
Gary.
During the first 5 mile run I did after re-installing it I noticed that the trip meter wasn't smooth (just slightly jerky).
But I just checked on google maps & the distance on the trip meter was exact.
I then stopped for about 30 mins & when I did the return journey the trip meter worked for about 1 mile & then froze (along with the odometer).
Speedo still works perfectly.
Does this help in narrowing down if it is likely something in the mechanism or a dry solder joint or something else?
Thanks for everyones help.
Gary.
#79
Race Car
Sounds like a gear issue. Aside from debris, check and make sure there are no burrs or rough edges on the gears. Given the cost of the part, I wouldn't expect great quality control.
#80
Advanced
I have gone through the same issue this week. First assembly ran correctly for 0.7 miles, then quit; disassemble, check and clean again, reassemble, test drive ran correctly for 0.6 mile....
Diassembled again this morning. Found that the motor rotor ( the black gear rides on this shaft) can easily be pulled out of the motor housing, so with my fingers holding the rotor I reassembled the main white/blue gear pod, the little 15 tooth white gear and the motor rotor with black gear all together; then I was able to carefully rotate the motor rotor between my fingers and confirmed that the tenths and miles were increasing on the odometer and trip meter; with this confirmed I then carefully brought the motor housing (silver & round) up onto the motor rotor while keeping all the gears seated in the odometer body, and last installed the 2 little screws to hold the motor assembly together. Next I inserted a very small flat tip screwdriver into the center part of the odometer and manually rotated the white/blue gear pod which confirmed the rotation again increased miles on the odometer and trip meter.
I then reassembled it again, installed it and drove the car, everything worked properly and I put about 11miles on the unit. I think it is now fixed,
Hope to confirm again tomorrow with a few more miles! Good luck, let me know what if any questions.
Diassembled again this morning. Found that the motor rotor ( the black gear rides on this shaft) can easily be pulled out of the motor housing, so with my fingers holding the rotor I reassembled the main white/blue gear pod, the little 15 tooth white gear and the motor rotor with black gear all together; then I was able to carefully rotate the motor rotor between my fingers and confirmed that the tenths and miles were increasing on the odometer and trip meter; with this confirmed I then carefully brought the motor housing (silver & round) up onto the motor rotor while keeping all the gears seated in the odometer body, and last installed the 2 little screws to hold the motor assembly together. Next I inserted a very small flat tip screwdriver into the center part of the odometer and manually rotated the white/blue gear pod which confirmed the rotation again increased miles on the odometer and trip meter.
I then reassembled it again, installed it and drove the car, everything worked properly and I put about 11miles on the unit. I think it is now fixed,
Hope to confirm again tomorrow with a few more miles! Good luck, let me know what if any questions.
#81
Interesting.
Do you think it is worthwhile (or risky!) to spray some silicon spray lubricant (or something else?) into the gears and/or odometer to help the movement?
I checked the distance I did the other day, 7.8km & it matches EXACTLY against the route I took on google maps.
I'm surprised it works for so many revolutions & is so precisely correct and then stops working.
I can can to move the gears carefully with a screwdriver, but I suspect this will work fine as it tends to always work for a while when cold.
Do you think it is worthwhile (or risky!) to spray some silicon spray lubricant (or something else?) into the gears and/or odometer to help the movement?
I checked the distance I did the other day, 7.8km & it matches EXACTLY against the route I took on google maps.
I'm surprised it works for so many revolutions & is so precisely correct and then stops working.
I can can to move the gears carefully with a screwdriver, but I suspect this will work fine as it tends to always work for a while when cold.
#82
Advanced
I would be careful about putting any spray lubricant in there since the new gears use a self lubricated plastic. I actually blew all of mine out with air in a can as I noted there was an oily film inside the motor rotor area also, maybe from the degraded oringinal gear?
i drove another 20+ miles today, still working.
i drove another 20+ miles today, still working.
#83
Rennlist Member
Oh I forgot to mentioned, I ended up using the old small gear. Comparing the two (OE's and Odometergears's) side by side after the second dismantle i found that the aftermarket's teeth are a hair fatter. I don't think it matters but didn't want the risk having to go back the third time.
#84
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 29
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Just pulled mine today. Made the mistake of trying to reset the odo in motion and that was it. I found the speedo was too snug to get out, try as I might. I asked my indy, and he said to pull the clock (which is easier to access, and you can fit in a plastic bodywork lever under the bezel from down below). With the clock out (you don't need to remove it, just hang it out of the way), you can reach in behind the speedo and push it out. He also recommended putting silicone lubricant on the seals, so that if you ever get the urge to meddle with the odometer while driving it will be easier to repeat the process again.
#85
Rennlist Member
About to order my gears... per one of the above replies, I should need the 16 tooth gear. Here goes nothing!
#86
I came here to ask if larger gear really needs to be replaced - my 15T broke - but these pictures just answered my question. Also, as I pulled the speedometer out today, I found this written on the back with black marker "new gears 1/7/11". It freakin' failed 10 years to the day. So, whatever replacement gears were used 10yrs ago are not guaranteed to last forever. Hopefully materials improved
Is odometergears.com the place to get replacements?
Is odometergears.com the place to get replacements?
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tstafford (01-07-2021)
#87
I came here to ask if larger gear really needs to be replaced - my 15T broke - but these pictures just answered my question. Also, as I pulled the speedometer out today, I found this written on the back with black marker "new gears 1/7/11". It freakin' failed 10 years to the day. So, whatever replacement gears were used 10yrs ago are not guaranteed to last forever. Hopefully materials improved
Is odometergears.com the place to get replacements?
Is odometergears.com the place to get replacements?
you should replace both gears. I replaced the small one in 2006 and 14 years later I have to do it again to replace the other one that became a blue mashed mass. The small gear is like new ...