cab top problem
I went to open the top on my 95 cab and about a 1/4 of the way up the process stopped. I heard some clicking noise. I have since manually operated the top, but the top light stays on along with the central warning light. I did some research here, and after reading about several similar situations, I tightened the bolts and and tried to operate the top. I'm not sure that it was sounding right so I closed it and the top slammed down. Any thoughts on this.
Burgled
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Altamonte Springs, Fl/Gwynns Island, Va.
If your car is one that has the recall for the locking motor might be a good time to take it in as I understand they adjust the top at the same time. You DONT want to snap any of the metal arms in there.
I took my car into a Porsche dealer and they found that a right transmission and both cables needed to be replaced at the tune of about $1,800 plus tax. Does that seem reasonable, or is it worth DIY?
Last edited by bluecab; Jun 21, 2005 at 07:13 PM.
That does not sound right to me. That is the answer when the see you coming and they think they can get away with it. It is most likely one of the micro-switches needing to be adjusted.
Unless you have a broken tooth on the gear inside the transmission, it is hard for me to imagine why it would need to be replaced. The top will go up and down with only one transmission, and if it was a cable, you would have heard the motor turning but the top would not have moved.
I suggest you pull up the hand brake, activate the switch until the top locking motors release the top, then loosen the bolts and lower the top manually, then put the top back up manually, tighten the bolts, activate the switch to lock the front motors down. Then engage the switch again to lower the top. When the top is on the way back up (closing it) use your free hand to "catch" the top as it approaches the windshield and let it settle into place, thus avoiding the "slam"
Hope this works for you. If not, find a good independant shop that knows how to align the top, I think that's all it needs.
Unless you have a broken tooth on the gear inside the transmission, it is hard for me to imagine why it would need to be replaced. The top will go up and down with only one transmission, and if it was a cable, you would have heard the motor turning but the top would not have moved.
I suggest you pull up the hand brake, activate the switch until the top locking motors release the top, then loosen the bolts and lower the top manually, then put the top back up manually, tighten the bolts, activate the switch to lock the front motors down. Then engage the switch again to lower the top. When the top is on the way back up (closing it) use your free hand to "catch" the top as it approaches the windshield and let it settle into place, thus avoiding the "slam"
Hope this works for you. If not, find a good independant shop that knows how to align the top, I think that's all it needs.
Thanks for the help. I went out to try that procedure and noticed the motor did not sound the same. I looked in the back and saw what I believe is the end of one of the cables just sticking out under the carpeted wall behind the rear seats. I guess they forgot to reconnect when I told them not to do anything. I'll have to make a trip back into the dealer before I can try anything.
Instead of going to the dealer i removed the rear cover and noticed both cables were off. The amount of cable protruding from the housing was less than what it should be, according to the p-car diy. I may have to replace these. I then looked at the right transmission and noticed that the slot that accepts the arm from the top was not as clean cut as the left one, and the washers for both transmissions were gouged. I need to replace the washers. One other problem is that the slot on the right transmission is not alligned or at the same position as the one on the left. Is there info on how to reallign the transmission?
In my experience trying this, a total PITA, trial and error process. Drink lots of water and keep a towel handy as the process produced more sweat than an hour on the eliptical at 70 rpm. In the end it was a knowlegable tech that got the whole thing sorted out - new transmissions were not needed, just skill. Sorry that's as helpful as I can be.
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I received new washers and shims and tried to get the top working again. I took the arms off both transmissions to see how the slotted parts turned. After a few tries at understanding the process of alligning the slots, the right transmission quit turning. I then went ahead and removed the right cable and transmission and then took the transmission apart. All of the gears are in good shape, but I can't figure out why the slotted part won't turn when it is put together. Any ideas?
This is about the point I get my trusted mechanic involved.... :-)
I had cab-top gear issues with my cab as well, but it seemed every time I thought I was going to get hammered with a big bill it was only a reconnection of a cable or a new cable or whatever.
Good luck on your own, but try to find a trusted mechanic who actually knows 993 cabs. It might save you some time and some blood pressure!!
I had cab-top gear issues with my cab as well, but it seemed every time I thought I was going to get hammered with a big bill it was only a reconnection of a cable or a new cable or whatever.
Good luck on your own, but try to find a trusted mechanic who actually knows 993 cabs. It might save you some time and some blood pressure!!
BTDT. As has been mentioned this is not a task for the faint hearted or impatient. The further problem, assuming you get the motors and transmissions working, is (my term) balancing both sides. I also have to admit that I gave up after several frustrating hours and sought professional advice. (At the time my wife recommended a different professional, but I chose a mechanic
) The stealer's price seems a bit high, but that is very easily a four $$$ figure job.
Good luck
Al
) The stealer's price seems a bit high, but that is very easily a four $$$ figure job. Good luck
Al
I realize I may need new cables by the amount of cable protruding thru the housing, but the slot on the right transmission was turning when all of a sudden it just quit. Again I took the transmission apart and made sure all of the gears were ok, which they are. I put it back together and tried to turn the slotted part of the transmission that receives the arm from the cab top, but it won't turn. I'm wondering what might be wrong or do I need a new transmission. Is it the worm gear on the cable? I would comment that the hardest part of the whole process so far was getting the cable out because it is buried in glue under the fabric over the wheel well.


