trojanman

Trust me, I know... this topic has been beaten to a pulp and I should probably just let the horse rest in peace... BUT, I would like those interested or inclined to chime in. Attached you'll see a pic of my beauty... note the ride height.

After much research and soul-searching, I'm inclined to do the following: add H&R sport springs to my M032 (stock USA) set-up. Before you tell me I'm an idiot, let me explain my rationale. I would like to lower the ride height and improve handling but am loathe to throw $1500-$2500 at it right now.

My car is going to be in for some major work (new top end and throw in a LWF/RS clutch while you're at it!!) in two weeks that will include a full alignment to correct a botched steering rack replacement (alignment will be PAID FOR by the dealer). I can get the H&Rs new for around $350 and pay another $300 or so for installation.

I figure that if I find down the road (so to speak) that the ride is not compliant or stable, I can keep the springs and add some Bilstein HDs or ROW M030 shocks. So really my only "sunk cost" is the $300 or so in labor for installing the springs.

She has 40k miles and feels (to my very untrained rear end) tight, quiet, and compliant.

Is this flawed logic? Thanks in advance for your input.

User 4221

With your car at 45k miles, the stock shocks are probably shot. Adding the H&R springs will likely expose the worn shocks. Or, if the shocks feel fine now, the stiffer springs will likely accelerate the
stock shocks failure.

I know this from a horrible experience I had on my wife's Audi S4. I did the H&R spring only trick and the car bounced horribly due to the shock being too weak. It felt fine for a few weeks, but quickly surfaced the blown shocks.

What I'm saying is: If you replace the springs, it is best to do the shocks as well. If you don't you will probably be going back in to replace the shocks in a few months...... Doing this now, will save a trip back to the shop for shock replacement and alignment.

HTH,
Scott

Jean

The difference will be the labor cost plus you might have to change the springs once you decide on upgrading suspension.

If you don't track the car, and you feel the suspension is decent, get the springs change, they will make you a happy man every morning when you look at your car (sometimes in the afternoon as well )

I tend to go all the way, but what the heck, why not just fix the looks for now!

Jastx

Please, do not mod your suspension just for looks, like "ricers" love to do -- so many ruin their cars building them into something they think looks cool but performs like crap.

Suspension is sophisticated. Do it right -- for correct performance -- or don't do it. Your beautiful Porsche deserves that.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Jeff:

As mentioned above, the OEM Monroe shocks are usually "done" by 30K and that should be at the very top of your suspension improvement list.

If you lower the car by installing shorter, stiffer springs (H&R's), you will degrade,....degrade the ride & handling unless you do not install better shocks at the same time. Further, given the labor to install, setup, and realign the car, its just foolish not to replace shocks at the same time.

Just one man's opinion, tho

ca993twin

Jeff,

When you add the price of the second install labor, the second alignment, and the second corner balance to the equation, this is one place that it really does not pay to go halfway. Check out the price difference between Bilstein HD + springs vs Pss-9 kit (includes springs). This is really the best bang for the buck setup in terms of adjustability and occassional track use. There are lots of things you can add later, but suspension is best done once, and right.

Edward

Hi Jeff,

I know it's tempting since you're only in for the cost of springs, but believe it when you're told that the stiffer/lower springs will degrade your ride significantly if used in concert with stock/dead OE shocks. It is a classic case of an oversprung/underdamped suspension which will feel harsh and at times jittery, almost "nervous" as it skates over ripples and surface irregularities, especially in a turn at speed. While it seems a bummer to add the cost of shocks at this time, think of the money you will be saving since the alignment is paid for. And the other plus, (other than the fact you will get the look you want and handling that is nothing short of a transformation), is that Bilsteins have a rep for lasting forever, or near that anyway. Hope this helps.

Edward

Scott 1996 993c2

Jeff -

I'd go for the Bilsteins right away -- I'm doing it real soon, along with the ROW M030 springs. BTW -- your car still looks sweet.

Scott

trojanman

Thanks to everyone for their responses. I guess too I should've noted that I'm not planning to track the car... for you purists that may be offended I apologize in advance, but this is really just my weekend, date night, Saturday-afternoon-in-the-canyon funmobile. I don't want to "cheapen" it, but I don't want to spend a fortune making it a track-worthy beast either.

Hey Scott, I assume the set-up you're talking about is around $1600 just in parts? I guess I balk at that when I feel like I've got something that works for what I use it for. (Thanks for the compliment, BTW... she is sweet.)

Maybe I'll just stay "stock", eh?

kkim

good luck!!

SteveAbrahams

Another approach. Do the Bilstein HD's with the stock US springs.
That's what I have and it works well IMO. All Bilstein HD's now come
with the extra threads I'm told, so obtaining a nice stance is not a
problem without sacrificing ride quality. Down the road you could go
another step further by adding bigger swaybars. I don.t live that
far from you so if you wish to test my setup send me a PM.

Edward

Jeff,

There is no need to sound apologetic for "keeping it stock" or for not tracking it. The car's use is how you best see fit, period. If I were you and did not desire to put in the dough for full shocks/springs, I would most certainly leave the car's suspension as it is now, for the reasons I had mentioned in my previous post ...heck, that's saving you money right there. When you're ready, then get the full monty. Even if you never track it, the new shocks/springs will put a smile on your face every time you drive it; it's that noticable. But since you're getting an alignment out of this deal, specify more negative camber. Say about -1 degree front and -1.3 or so rear. This alone will make the car feel more "alive" with more crisp turn-in and a planted rear, but not so radical that it will significantly affect your tire wear. All IMHO, of course. Good luck.

Edward

max911

Jeff, you would also have to do a four-wheel alignment, which would put your H&R install up to about $500 or more..... which you would have to pay again when (and it will be soon) you need the Bilsteins. It would probably be best to have both done at once.
I can see you wanting to lower your car .... my car's stock ride height drove me nuts until I dropped it.

Here is an attempt to show your car at HD/ H&R ride height:



best of luck with the new car

max

Scott 1996 993c2

Jeff -

Yah, I think its about that -- will also need an alignment when I'm done, of course. I think there's a hole burnin' in my wallet -- b/c I can't seem to resist doing new sways at the same time (probably the M030 sways) and a strut tower brace too. Ssshhhhhh --- don't tell my wife.

Fight On!

Scott

24FPS

max rules. nice. a diff. car.