BIG-BRO

Makes me very glad that I took the extra time to hook up jumper pack to the battery cables when I just replaced my battery, so that the car never lost battery voltage. Took an extra set of hands, but sure was easier than worrying about the readiness codes, radio codes, etc............

ed devinney

Wow, that's a looooong time for the throwout and thrust bearings. Is this *really* necessary?

Slow Guy

No, I did not follow each step precisely, I did not have to leave the car anywhere but home.
Oh, I think I know what you're asking, I don't believe you have to do those steps exactly for that amount of time stated (I didn't). If it said to go 20 - 30 mph for 3 min 15 sec. I think that is the minimum time you need to drive at that speed for that step, anything over that is gravy (I think I went over 4 min., just to be sure). Then when road conditions presented themselves I started the next step.

The big issue is don't exceed 3k RPM or 60 - 65 mph BETWEEN STEPS (or shut off the car) or you'll have to start over again, from the beginning.

At least that is what worked for me. I'll see if I can find the BMW procedure, it's very close to Steve's procedure.

Slow Guy

Found the BMW Drive Cycle procedure on a previous post from Ecobb993. I'm going to post both the link

http://srlx.com/p-car/obdii_readiness.pdf

and try to attach the document. (well, it won't let me attach the pdf file because it's too large (249kB))

What would be the way to make this easier to find, post it as a DIY in the DIY Forum? Any other suggestions?

It loks like the guy hosting the BMW Drive Cycle pdf on his site is selling his car, we may want to host this pdf somewhere else before his copy goes away. (I downloaded it to my PC but don't host a web site)

Garth S

To ask a silly question, can the driving cycle test be executed with the car elevated on a hoist ( or jackstands)?? If the cycle is not aware of road forces, this would be a no brainer in the privacy of your own garage .... open the garage door, beverage of choice in hand, twist key on cold engine, start stop watch, .....

ecobb993

Yep, 993BillW, that BMW routine has worked for me numerous times over the last few years.

BTW, guess I love my 993 too much - my price is more than any buyers are willing to step up to. But that's why "everything I own is for sale". Make me an offer I can't refuse.

Don't worry about my dropping the link to the pdf. I know how valuable these DIY tips are to the group (and me). If the day comes, and I don't expect that in the forseeable future, that I sell and move on, I'll get Robin or someone else to post it.

I'd gladly post this link in the DIY forum, but guess posting new threads there are by invitation only, and I haven't been invited (by anyone but you).

Slow Guy

It's my understanding you do NOT want to attempt this or any simular procedure like this w/ these cars on a lift (unloaded wheels). You could do it on a chassis dyno but not with the wheels in the air.

Someone else will have to provide the reasons why, I think it has to do w/ CV Joint/tranny issues but I'm not sure.

Ecobb993, I thought that might be your site but I wasn't sure. Looks good, nice site and glad you're planning on leaving the Drive Cycles pdf up on your site. Thanks again.

Lorenfb

"You may not have to do 300 miles, its just been the distance I WAS driving anyway,"

Under the right conditions, i.e. all elements of the emission system are O.K.,
and using the Porsche tester, the two trips can be done in 10-15 miles and in
about 30-40 minutes total.

Check here for more info:

www.systemsc.com/codes.htm

TCallas

I would not recommend running your drive train unloaded. It is not good for the Constant Velocity joints and boots (CV Joints) to constantly run at those angles plus the DME system is also designed to see a load on the engine while trying to run the monitors. This would end up being a completely different set of requirements. As for the time needed to run the two sets of monitors, it usually takes approximately 45 minutes with the PST-2 tester to complete the monitors twice and complete a trip cycle. You cannot have any DME fault codes present or the monitors will not run completely. With the PST-2 tester, it is easier if you run the quick tests on the SAI (secondary air injection) and the EVAP (evaporative emissions system) first.

Edward

And I say the following with utmost sympathy for you folks:
Another reason I'm glad I have OBD1! Those are some strange hoops to jump through.

Edward

hddude

Huh? Well, as long as you never buy another car newer than a '95 I guess you have reason to feel smug. This isn't a problem unique to our cars.

Slow Guy

For me at least it wasn't a big problem nor did it consume a large amount of time. I think I spent more time just searching to find out what procedure/pattern I needed to run, once I found that it was pretty much a piece of cake. That's why I'd like to get the procedure up as a DIY.

Dan V

LOL true! Alternatively one can always buy cars MY1975 or older. I never did understand the logic of California allowing 75 caddies/fords/chevys to go around spewing as much pollution as they want. Oh, and they don't smog test cars less than 5 years old either, unless your transfering to a new owner. Welcome to the LAnd of Fruits & Nuts.

Edward

Sorry guys, wasn't feeling smug at all, really. But honestly, I have NEVER had any problems with any OBDII car ever ...as in ever. What's the deal with the system on 993s? (and obviously, I am no 993 hater). More of a rhetorical Q, really. It's prob a combination of things, like crappy SAI design. Gotta love all 993s. Peace!

Edward

geolab

Here are the porsche technical B's, definitions to be read thoroughly before ...

merry Xmas to all