Luis A.

I recently replaced both distributor caps and rotors as well as a couple of connectors/boots that were arcing, one of them being the one coming from the coil. I still get arcing from the base of the rubber boot/connector to the distributor cap. It's light and happens maybe every couple of seconds but it's there.

Does anyone know why this is happening even after installing new components. Why is the current finding it easier to go around the established pathway, so to speak...??

TIA!

StevoUK

I know nothing but these are the things I would try...

Warning the ignition system is a high energy system and a dangerous high voltage produces the spark - enough to be fatal!

Damp

A pre-established track (faint lines of carbon) (clean and try a wipe over with WD40)

Remove and clean the cable end connection and the distributer "slot" into which it goes. Poor lead insulation can cause problems with older leads due to breaking down of the inulation.

Check the plug leads for proper connections and no damp.

Check that the distributer cap is seated correctly. See if there is any evidence of tracking inside the cap. Ensure that the new rotor arm is fully seated in its slot.

Excessive oily deposits on the base of the distributer can cause problems.

TheOtherEric

I had this EXACT same problem last summer and I posted the question as well. I don't recall a simple solution to it. It turned out to be my own fault: I had a p-clip hooked up to a king lead wire in an attempt to pick up a signal for my DL1 data logger. I never suspected this could be the cause but it was.

StevoUK

And the spark plugs may need replacing - insulation breaking down or overlarge gaps.

Luis A.

John; Thanks for the many suggestions. No damp whatsoever; car's been stored in a dry winter climate for the last 4 months. The parts were new but I'll take them out and reinspect and clean any carbon traces and reseat. Thanks.

Eric: I wonder why a p-clip would cause that?!? I have nothing hooked up to the HV wires but I wonder if the wires are to blame just because they are now 9 years old (very low miles though).

What's the latest collective wisdom on sourcing OEM or OEM quality wires in case I need to replace them?

Thanks!

Luis A.

Thanks John; plugs are new as well; <5,000 miles... I didn't think the triple electrode plugs could be regapped...?

StevoUK

No they are effectively self gapping - if one wears prematurely the nearest less worn one would carry more spark I guess.

So that leaves the plug leads and the coil lead and the coil. I suppose older plug/coil leads could have poor insulation - get an auto electrician to check that out.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi:

Its the plug leads.

High voltage electricity finds the path of least resistance and when the wire/plug connector resistances get too high, you get arcing at the places of least resistance; in this case, the gaps between the cap terminals and the rotor tips.

One more thing,......that excessive arcing generates more ozone inside the distributor that deteriorates the drive belt even faster. If the original belt has 60K or more on it, I'd strongly suggest replacement.

Luis A.

Thanks Steve... that's what I was afraid of. Any suggestions where to get a set?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Luis:

Since Magnecor doesn't make anything for the 3.6's, I use the Factory sets. Your Porsche dealer or myself can help you out.