PPI protocol
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
when buying a used 993, the topic of having a ppi done comes up a lot. i've never had this done before, what is the process? does the seller or the buyer pay for it? what is the typical cost? does the result of the ppi determine who pays? does it matter if it's done by a dealer or an independent shop? what is usually checked? is bodywork and paint also checked or just mechanicals?
thanks,
roche in ohio wishing i had a c4s
thanks,
roche in ohio wishing i had a c4s
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The buyer should pay for the PPI, this would be the only way to get a non-biased evaluation. The results of the PPI will either rule out the car, give you some negotiating power, or verify that it was accurately represented. It will also give you an idea of what will be needed down the road
I would post the area where the car is to get suggestions on a shop, if you can't find anything go with a Porsche Dealer, but even then I'd ask for suggestions here. Don't go to where the car has been serviced by the current owner!
Cost will vary, but expect 100 to 200 for the PPI. A compression/leakdown test is usually not included in the PPI but should be done in my opinion...
I would post the area where the car is to get suggestions on a shop, if you can't find anything go with a Porsche Dealer, but even then I'd ask for suggestions here. Don't go to where the car has been serviced by the current owner!
Cost will vary, but expect 100 to 200 for the PPI. A compression/leakdown test is usually not included in the PPI but should be done in my opinion...
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow, lotta questions. I'll take a shot.
It usually works like this: parties agree on a price, pending a good PPI. Buyer ALWAYS pays the PPI, no matter what the outcome. Costs anywhere from $150 - $400 depending on what you want done. Typically around $200. Can get it done by whomever the buyer trusts the most since the buyer is paying. I think it's a great idea to check paint with a thickness guage, but this isn't usually done since most techs don't do bodywork too.
You can download my checklist at:
http://home.comcast.net/~dirtybeigec...Ichecklist.xls
or (if you don't do Excel)
http://home.comcast.net/~dirtybeigec...Ichecklist.htm
It usually works like this: parties agree on a price, pending a good PPI. Buyer ALWAYS pays the PPI, no matter what the outcome. Costs anywhere from $150 - $400 depending on what you want done. Typically around $200. Can get it done by whomever the buyer trusts the most since the buyer is paying. I think it's a great idea to check paint with a thickness guage, but this isn't usually done since most techs don't do bodywork too.
You can download my checklist at:
http://home.comcast.net/~dirtybeigec...Ichecklist.xls
or (if you don't do Excel)
http://home.comcast.net/~dirtybeigec...Ichecklist.htm
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
PPI is paid for by the purchaser and will run anywhere from $100 to $400 or so depending on if you have leakdown/compression testing done. Search the archives as there have been many, many posts on this topic. You can use the results of the PPI to negotiate, just depends on ask price of car, supply/demand in the area. Most PPIs will do a lookover of car and check out suspension to make sure original. One way to check out for paintwork is to look at the paint at an angle and look for consistencyin paint orange peel. OEM orange peel is quite prominent and should be consisten from panel to panel. Also, try looking at under fourescent lighting as paint flaws are easier to detect under this lighting. If you are concerened, have a body shop guy meet you at the mechanic to do a quick lookover, or drop by a shop. These guys will be able to spot a repaint if there was one. Personally, I would find a good independent. Lot's of Rennlisters in Ohio so let us know where you live and someone can recommend a shop.
FYI, check out Truspeed at www.truspeedmotorcars.com as they always have nice cars and seem to have a good selection of C4Ss currently. I've no affiliation with them other than having spent some time in their shop oggling their cars. Good luck.
FYI, check out Truspeed at www.truspeedmotorcars.com as they always have nice cars and seem to have a good selection of C4Ss currently. I've no affiliation with them other than having spent some time in their shop oggling their cars. Good luck.
#5
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Eric,
You may want to consider adding "OBD2 readiness codes set?" for MY96+ to your checklist. Also if you get a chance take a look at Adrian's 964 book (until his 993 book becomes available) as there are over 20 pages of "things" to look at during a PPI, most of which apply to the 993.
You may want to consider adding "OBD2 readiness codes set?" for MY96+ to your checklist. Also if you get a chance take a look at Adrian's 964 book (until his 993 book becomes available) as there are over 20 pages of "things" to look at during a PPI, most of which apply to the 993.
#6
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason, how do you check that? Does the shop need special Porsche diagnostic equipment to check the OBD2 readiness codes? I think there's some meaningful diagnostics that can be run on a '95, but I don't know much about that either.
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#7
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All they need is an OBD2 scanner. Unfortunately people have been selling SAI CEL infected 993s that have had the codes cleared with a scanner and the battery negative lead pulled hoping to hide the problem. If the readiness codes are set then there shouldn't be any surprises 90 miles after the new owner buys the car (which has been the case here).