swftiii

Finn,

I have also just completed the same install, but with both coolers. I just epoxied the grills to the front bumper and now need to reinstall and the job is done. I have a DE coming up in early March, but the temps are usually quite cold so that won't be a good test, but I'll post results if any are informative.

Please post your temp results with the single cooler from your next track event - Florida would be a better test of its cooling capability.

Thanks,

-Skip

Greg Fishman

Finn,
I was thinking about where the fog lights were. My guess is you will be fine with your set up and if you can't keep the thermostat open during normal driving you might need to tape up that opening.

Flying Finn

Kary,

That's exactly what's happening with me too, and it wasn't that cold either (70 something).
I don't think you're imagining, I monitored the gauge closely and it went up & down, clearly thermostat was opening & closing.
As Greg suggested, might be a good idea to put something in front of it if it does that?

mr_bock,

I'll wait to see how it does at track. If the cooling is enough with one, I might not add another at all, although like you said, it might 'look' better with it.

Princeton,

I had to do SOMETHING after looking all the stuff you're doing...

Skip,

Once I go to track, I certainly will post temperature differences. Even if it's cold in March when you go to track, post something too.

Greg,

There would be room there (for small ones) and one could just take everything out from those openins (no scoops, nothing) and but a mesh there, it would be pretty good place although the size of the coolers would be pretty small.
I was originally thinking of installing one long cooler in the middle and directing the air same way 996 race cars have it, coming out in front of the hood from holes on the bumper but in the end decided to go this way because I didn't want to cut bumper (IMO it would look cool though...).

I'll see how much the thermostat does it (opening & closing), now that spring is almost here and temperatures start getting above 80, probably isn't necessary but for next winter I need to think about it.

Flying Finn

OG asked about the prices, here they are (totals). This doesn't include shipping and depending where you get the parts, I'm sure there are little differences.
In any case, the prices should be little under $400 for "Stage I" and little under $600 for "Stage II".
I also changed couple of parts, these lists have low-profile hose ands instead of tobe hose ends.

STAGE I:

• 1 pc. 30mm to AN12 metric thread male to AN adapter male (Earl's (www.anplumbing.com) #9919GFR)
• 1 pc. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 180 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #818012)
• 1 pc. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 90 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #809012)
• 1 pc. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 45 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #804512)
• 1 pc. AN12 Swivel-Seal Hose end (Earl's #800112)
• 10 ft. Premium Racing Hose (Earl's #410012).
• 1 pc. AN12 to 30mm Female adapter. (www.pegasusautoracing.com #1219-12AN)
• 1 pc. MOCAL Oil Cooler with AN 12 fittings (12"X 5"X2", Mocal 235 Matrix, 16 Row Radiator cooler. (http://www.batinc.net/coolers.htm)

TOTAL $375

STAGE II:

• 1 pc. 30mm to AN12 metric thread male to AN adapter male (Earl's (www.anplumbing.com) #9919GFR)
• 1 pc. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 180 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #818012)
• 3 pcs. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 90 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #809012)
• 1 pc. AN 12 Swivel-Seal 45 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #804512)
• 1 pc. AN12 Swivel-Seal Hose end (Earl's #800112)
• 10 ft. Premium Racing Hose (Earl's #410012).
• 1 pc. AN12 to 30mm Female adapter. (www.pegasusautoracing.com #1219-12AN)
• 2 pcs. MOCAL Oil Cooler with AN 12 fittings (12"X 5"X2", Mocal 235 Matrix, 16 Row Radiator cooler. (http://www.batinc.net/coolers.htm)

TOTAL $575

viperbob

Awesome job!!!! If looks great. You must have spent more time writing it up than you did installing it.....

Flying Finn

Thanks Bob and you're absolutely right, doing the DIY write-up, taking the photos and putting them together was the biggest challenge!

But I was glad to do it!

TheOtherEric

Finn, thanks for the great write-up! Realizing it would be too much for me, I threw in the towel and bought the Ruf cooler for a little under $1000. A wise man knows his limits I guess. Fabbing the bracket gave me pause, but the part about cutting the bumper made me weak in the knees. Y'all are too hardcore for me.

Flying Finn

Eric,

Since you've already bought the RUF kit this exactly doesn't apply to you but for someone else maybe too "softcore":
The bracket could be just two pieces of ST/ST flat bar making the fabrication really simple (just cutting them and drilling the holes) and I think cutting the bumber might not be necessary.

I'll check cutting the bumber later today.

graham_mitchell

FF, just another "kiitoksia oikein paljon" for a great write-up!

Flying Finn

Graham, ole hyva!

Flying Finn

Bump because of the update...

North Coast Cab

So uh, what happened to all the pictures?

BobbyT

I was wondering if I was the only one who got weird pictures--I like the starfish one, but I had some trouble making sense of how it related to the text...

Basal Skull

Those were helpful pics. I referenced them when I did mine... may be this will be help full. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=28499

CaptainGSR

Great pictures:-)