Warm Start Restart Failure -DME starting to go?
#17
Hmm..Vapor lock - maybe that is it since it goes away after a 3-4 minute wait. -Whats Vapor Lock ?
Man I like all these responses as it really helps in learning about the 993.
Thanks again for all the feedback guys.
Scott
Man I like all these responses as it really helps in learning about the 993.
Thanks again for all the feedback guys.
Scott
#18
Listen for the sound of the relay click while you are waiting for it to go again. I had exactly this in last two weeks. It was the DME relay. Same symptoms. I heard the relay click and then you could start again.
#19
Originally Posted by SR71BLACKBIRD
Hi Kelly - its okay, your suggestion was a good one as they seem to have reasonable prices and seem to be the lowest on this part. Barrier Porsche in Bellevue, WA wants 42.00 bucks + 8.8% = 45.00 so thats about 5-6 Starbucks Grande Americanos of savings approx 16.00 - ha ha and I don't have to drive there.
I didn't have a chance to look at the Relay but will do so tonight- this should be interesting and I will let you know.
Thanks
Scott
I didn't have a chance to look at the Relay but will do so tonight- this should be interesting and I will let you know.
Thanks
Scott
I just resoldered mine as it's usually the solder on the PCB board in the relay that goes.
Cost - 5 minutes and two burnt fingers
#21
Kelly, I checked the relay and it is a 944 one not a 993 one so its probably a 10 year old relay that came with the car as the records never indicated it was ever changed. -Not bad - I'll run it into the ground and get my money's worth until it dies - ha ha
#22
Originally Posted by SR71BLACKBIRD
Hey Daniel: Is it easy to take the Relay apart? I think when mine goes I might just try it as I've got nothing to lose.
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott
#23
Originally Posted by SR71BLACKBIRD
Kelly, I checked the relay and it is a 944 one not a 993 one so its probably a 10 year old relay that came with the car as the records never indicated it was ever changed. -Not bad - I'll run it into the ground and get my money's worth until it dies - ha ha
I'd put the 993 relay in to see if that solves your problem, then take the 944 relay apart as suggested by Dan and look for the cracked (I assume) solder joints and see if it can be reflowed. If you can fix the 944 relay, test it, then keep it in your car as the spare. $29 for peace of mind that if this ever happens again, you'll be prepared.
Good luck!!
#24
Daniel- soldering is an excellent suggestion. I have been doing that on the DME relays for years and on three different cars. They all have this problem eventually... my 87 cab ate relays for lunch until I soldered one up and made it stronger. Voila! No more problems.
Scott- Barrier is a total rip-off. Unless you really beat them down on price, you are much better to go mail-order. It was the same with Bayside Porsche as well back in the day. Barrier will meet advertised prices, (at least Rocky will) but with the sales tax, you can do much better elsewhere. For a laugh sometime, ask them the price on a pair of 993 oil filters.
Scott- Barrier is a total rip-off. Unless you really beat them down on price, you are much better to go mail-order. It was the same with Bayside Porsche as well back in the day. Barrier will meet advertised prices, (at least Rocky will) but with the sales tax, you can do much better elsewhere. For a laugh sometime, ask them the price on a pair of 993 oil filters.
#25
The DME-relay is a standard fault. But if it still is gives you problem with a new DME-relay I would check out the Imobilizer. All -94 993s and some early -95s experience a defect Imobilizer relay. We have had at least to -94s among my friends that have experienced problems(me included). The symptoms are exactly the same as the DME-relay. After a while it can also show up while driving. The engine starts to "flutter". One guy here in Sweden spent 6 months in 3 different Porsche workshops, and they could not find the fault.
The relay inside the imobiliser does not close one of the ignition circuits as it is supposed to do (I think it is the Yellow and green cables that go into the imobilizer that are not closed properly). The fix is to run a wire from one cable to another (green to Yellow?).
Another fault that can give the same problem is if the engine eartt cable is loose.
The relay inside the imobiliser does not close one of the ignition circuits as it is supposed to do (I think it is the Yellow and green cables that go into the imobilizer that are not closed properly). The fix is to run a wire from one cable to another (green to Yellow?).
Another fault that can give the same problem is if the engine eartt cable is loose.
#27
When I have the relay apart, will it be really apparent which circuit needs to be soldered - (I never took electronics in school or is there a certain circuit or prong that I should look for to solder. Also how do you get rid of the old decaying solder and what do you use to clean up the old solder or do you just add more solder on top of the old stuff. I always thought when circuit boards are burnt out you can't fix them .
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott