jw97C2S

I'm installing the euro M030 coil springs/shocks. When installing the front springs, is there a particular position the coil springs need to be installed. In other words, is there a top and bottom to the spring. I have noticed that one side of the spring has dead coils (easily flexed) and the other side is active (cannot be compressed by hand). It seems as though the dead coil spring side needs to be on the bottom. Thanks for any help.
Jim

Robin 993DX

The looser part of the coil is placed on the bottom.

jw97C2S

Thanks Robin! I'm getting differing responses from Rennlisters. Some have said the thinner (dead coils) point up and others have said the thinner (dead coils) point down. These springs are Porsche OEM euro (purchased from Gert) and have the two green dots and one orange dot painted at the thicker end of the spring. I'm told that the painted dot side of the spring point downward (in my case the thicker coils would be facing down). Is this correct. Thanks for any help.
Jim

Viken

Yes, the thinner coils do go at the bottom and the paint dots will be at the top.

lexart

As usual, Viken is right ! The spring's paint dots should be on top. Here is a pic of my front M030 spring installed . . .

Rgds,

jw97C2S

Thanks for everyones help! Everyone on the Rennlist board indicates that the thinner (looser) springs are on the bottom. But, a Porsche racecar mechanic and a couple of others (including a well known Porsche expert) have indicated that the thinner coils are on the top. My guess is that the positioning of the spring doesnt really matter if everyone has had luck with their particular method.
Thanks again
Jim

Robin 993DX

Jim,

Please e-mail me your fax number, I want to fax you a page from the shop manual where it clearly shows a cross section of the spring where the thicker coils (looser) part of the spring are place down.

jw97C2S

Robin

I think I misunderstood your initial comment. When I wrote the thinner end of the coil spring I meant the thickness of the individual coil (there is a thick side and a thin side of the coil spring). On the M030 springs one side of the spring can easily be compressed by hand(thinner) while the other is very tight (thicker). It is my understanding that the tighter(thicker) of the springs should be at the bottom where you need the strength under compression.

This sounds like what you meant, but I may have misunderstood. Does it sound as though we mean the same thing? BTW, my fax number is 817.590.0150. Thanks again.


Jim

Robin 993DX

Jim yes. I guess I used the word "looser" not as an expression of how hard you push it, but as how many coil the spring is. (I wouldn't think about doing that because I wouldn't want a black eye) :P

I will fax that page to you asap.

Ray Calvo

If you'd stop being a cheapskate, and you'd buy the shop manual, you'd know how to install them.

"... the tighter winding must point toward the spring strut mount."

A little more digging will show that the "spring strut mount" is the upper strut mounting in the wheel well.

(How anybody can afford $50k+ for a car and then get a $2K upgrade, but is too cheap to buy a shop manual is beyond me). Must be a damn liberal -wants everything handed to him. And Robin - shame on you for supporting the welfare clients!)

Have fun with the installation - I did on mine! Good luck.

jw97C2S

Robin

Thanks for the fax! The springs illustrated are somewhat different from the M030 but I think I finally understand what they mean by looser and tighter.

Ray

You crack me up! I have the manuals and read the part where it said "the tighter winding must point toward the spring strut mount." My problem was interpreting what "tighter winding" meant. Did it mean tighter winding as in one end was narrower than the other or were they talking about the gaps between each coil were "tighter" on one side than the other. I just didnt want to install it the wrong way and have to do the whole job over. I havent seen you go off like this in a while. I kind of missed it.

Jim

Ray Calvo

Jim, my congratulations for not being a welfare maggot. Now, some things from the school of hard knocks.

- The disassembly/reassembly of the rear spring/shock unit requires some special techniques/cursing. As I remember, the upper nut on the shock rod is buried way down in a stop plate (see pg 42-24 of the manual). You have to undo this nut while holding the little flat on the end of the shock shaft. As I remember, I had to get a deep offset 18mm box end wrench to get access to this nut.

- Once you get the rear shock assembled with the M030 spring, you might find that the completed asembly leaves the spring loose in the assembly. I had to hold the spring carefully in position as I bolted the spring/shock unit in place, then jack up the rear suspension to compress the shock enuf to start compressing the spring. I've always worried about the spring getting out of position whenever I completely jack up the rear, but it hasn't happened yet.

- Take careful note of the alignment of the pieces of the assembly as shown on page 42-30 of YOUR shop manual. If you're a little out of alignment, you will never get the shock installed in the upper body holes/mount.

- The spring compressor model 12AS7426U available from J. C. Whitney works great on these struts. I bought these ages ago and have used them on several European cars. I have had problems with the ones available at rental shops; the prongs are too large for the limited clearance between the shock body/dust shield and the inner diameter of the spring.

- An assistant helps when trying to install the shock/spring assembly.

As I said, have fun!

jw97C2S

Ray

I have the complete euro M030 suspension including sways installed but did run into one problem with the front shocks. The back was slighty recessed, as you said, but I was able to use a wrench and the allen on it. The single middle nut that holds the spring down in the front is very recessed, however, to the point where a specialty tool may be required to tighten it properly(I used an impact wrench on it but found that I had to hit it with the impact again once it was installed on the car - too loose).

As far as the manuals go, I havent found them to be much help so far. Now Robin's DIY site is another story. That would be worth twice the price of the manuals.

Jim

Robin 993DX

Jim,

The shop manual does recommend using a "half-open socket wrench" made by Hazet to remove the shock piston bolt. And it does say "DO NOT under any circumstances" use an impact gun to loosen or tighten the bolt.

I used the impact gun in my DIY because (1). I do not have this special open socket wrench, (2). I have been using this impact gun method for years without any problem. (3). Through hands on experiences I have had I can pretty much apply the correct torque setting free handed. .......Although I own three different torque wrenches...

For first time DIY people I do recommend that you purchase the right tool prior to this DIY, the danger of using an impact gun to tighten the top shock nut is that you might apply too much torque and strip the thread the also break the shock shaft.

I guess I will make this addition to the DIY section.

Below is a picture of the open nut from Snap-on.

My Q Ship

Hi Jim,
The discription in the factory manual is a bit misleading but, it does mean the coils that are "tighter" (winds per inch)(the small wire dia.) goes to the top and the coils that are further apart (the larger dia. wire) go towards the bottom.

And Hi Robin,
The picture of the tool you posted is for VW/Audi front struts. The correct tool
looks like a 3/8" drive deep socket with a window cut in the side of it (sorry I don't have a picture but, I'm pretty sure there is a drawing of it in the manual).

Ray,
If you turn down the rear shock shafts 1" from the top shoulder, reinstall everything until you go to put the nut on, install a 1" dia.x1" high spacer then install the nut, you'll eliminate the spring free play. This is of course assuming you are using USA shocks with ROW MO3O springs.

Q