Glove Box Latch Problem (seriously) with pics...
#1
Glove Box Latch Problem (seriously) with pics...
Guys,
I need help on this one. The pictures below show the most frustrating part of my car right now - yes even more frustrating than the one wheel lock up hand brake style turn at the track.
My dam glove box will not stay closed because when I hit a bump the metal u shaped bar that the latch 'latches to' pulls out of its place in the glovebox frame. So when the door comes flying open on my unwitting passenger (lately, only my wife ) and bangs them on the shins, the u shaped bar is still attached to the locking mechanism on the door as in picture 1.
I cannot for the life of me figure out how that bar is supposed to stay in place in the two holes (okay I haven't spent that much time losing sleep over it but it is annoying) since there are no threads on the ends to secure a nut or something from the backside. Surely pressure can't be the only thing holding that u in place. If that is the case, then I need only bend the two ends apart - but I don't think that is right.
This is one for those lucky few who have removed their gloveboxes for racing purposes or unlucky few who have the same dam problem.
If someone wants to tell me to take out my glove box to see whats on the other side for myself, then I ask this: once you remove the visable screws, what else needs to be removed so the glovebox can come out? I can't figure that out either.
Anyway, this is not the most serious help topic on the list which is why I kept it light. But it is darn annoying to me and I would really appreciate the help.
Thanx,
E. J.
I need help on this one. The pictures below show the most frustrating part of my car right now - yes even more frustrating than the one wheel lock up hand brake style turn at the track.
My dam glove box will not stay closed because when I hit a bump the metal u shaped bar that the latch 'latches to' pulls out of its place in the glovebox frame. So when the door comes flying open on my unwitting passenger (lately, only my wife ) and bangs them on the shins, the u shaped bar is still attached to the locking mechanism on the door as in picture 1.
I cannot for the life of me figure out how that bar is supposed to stay in place in the two holes (okay I haven't spent that much time losing sleep over it but it is annoying) since there are no threads on the ends to secure a nut or something from the backside. Surely pressure can't be the only thing holding that u in place. If that is the case, then I need only bend the two ends apart - but I don't think that is right.
This is one for those lucky few who have removed their gloveboxes for racing purposes or unlucky few who have the same dam problem.
If someone wants to tell me to take out my glove box to see whats on the other side for myself, then I ask this: once you remove the visable screws, what else needs to be removed so the glovebox can come out? I can't figure that out either.
Anyway, this is not the most serious help topic on the list which is why I kept it light. But it is darn annoying to me and I would really appreciate the help.
Thanx,
E. J.
#2
EJ,
I have taken my glove box apart before, It is farily easy, just bunch of screws all aroudn it. I had to make adjustments because it wouldn't shut right. Later I found out that you can loosen the latch "U" shaped bar by loosen the two philip screws on each side of it and then you can slide the "U" latch in and out and so that it will meet the lock better. Tightening the two screws locks the "U" latch tight. I never pulled it out completely so I am not sure how it gets tighten.
So I would suggest that you loosen the two philips screws and stick the latch in the tighten the screw and see what happens.
I think in your case the two philips screws may have been loose and that's why the latch fell out.
On the parts catalog it showed a clamping plate in the back of the latch. So I think the philips screw in joining with the latch somehow secures the latch.
I have taken my glove box apart before, It is farily easy, just bunch of screws all aroudn it. I had to make adjustments because it wouldn't shut right. Later I found out that you can loosen the latch "U" shaped bar by loosen the two philip screws on each side of it and then you can slide the "U" latch in and out and so that it will meet the lock better. Tightening the two screws locks the "U" latch tight. I never pulled it out completely so I am not sure how it gets tighten.
So I would suggest that you loosen the two philips screws and stick the latch in the tighten the screw and see what happens.
I think in your case the two philips screws may have been loose and that's why the latch fell out.
On the parts catalog it showed a clamping plate in the back of the latch. So I think the philips screw in joining with the latch somehow secures the latch.
#5
E.J.
Same problem. At about 110mph it will give you a scare when it pops open! Robin is correct. The two screws need to be loosened and then the U latch will go into the holes.You have to play with the exact adjustment to get the box to close flush again. You have to get down with a flashlight and align properly or else its only a temporary fix. Not too bad. Little things like this can be very annoying.
Same problem. At about 110mph it will give you a scare when it pops open! Robin is correct. The two screws need to be loosened and then the U latch will go into the holes.You have to play with the exact adjustment to get the box to close flush again. You have to get down with a flashlight and align properly or else its only a temporary fix. Not too bad. Little things like this can be very annoying.
#7
Hi EJ,
I had this problem recently, just as you describe. I took it to the dealer who replaced the mechansim ( or maybe they just did what the others suggested and charged me for a new part). In any case it was not expensive ~£25 and is now cured.
Tito.
I had this problem recently, just as you describe. I took it to the dealer who replaced the mechansim ( or maybe they just did what the others suggested and charged me for a new part). In any case it was not expensive ~£25 and is now cured.
Tito.
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#8
My 1995 glove box door was always slightly out of "full flush" closure. I tried to adjust it once but only made it worse. It never ever popped open but it didn't fully align when closed.
No problem with the 996TT, no glove compartment!
No problem with the 996TT, no glove compartment!
#9
Okay Guys:
Just bonded with my glovebox for 20 minutes. Here is the deal. I see what you all are talking about with the 2 screws. I loosened them and saw the holes where the U goes and I put it in. Then I tighten the 2 screws down. When I pull on the u it is good and tight. I close the door and all seems fine. Here is where the mystery starts: once I open the door (by turning the ****) the door opens fine, but the u is now loose and falls right out when I barely touch it. The screws remain tight though. I go through it again and loosen the screws put in the u and tughtne again and the sam thing happens. The door is alinged okay so I am at a loss.
Thanx for the help. I am not sure if this deserves this much bandwidth, but I am stumped.
E. J.
Just bonded with my glovebox for 20 minutes. Here is the deal. I see what you all are talking about with the 2 screws. I loosened them and saw the holes where the U goes and I put it in. Then I tighten the 2 screws down. When I pull on the u it is good and tight. I close the door and all seems fine. Here is where the mystery starts: once I open the door (by turning the ****) the door opens fine, but the u is now loose and falls right out when I barely touch it. The screws remain tight though. I go through it again and loosen the screws put in the u and tughtne again and the sam thing happens. The door is alinged okay so I am at a loss.
Thanx for the help. I am not sure if this deserves this much bandwidth, but I am stumped.
E. J.
#11
The U shaped bar is held in place by a 3-spike star-shaped part, which over time wears out and causes the u shaped bar to fall. You can solve the problem in one of three ways:
1. replace the mechanism (very cheap part)
2. have the star shaped part re-worked to increase slightly the length of the 2 spikes which press against the u shaped part
3. (simplest) use loctite or similar glue on the u-shaped part and slide it in the two holes. after a few minutes it will be so solidly bonded to the body of the mechanism you can forget about it for a number of years. by the way this is what I did on mine - no problem
Kostas
1. replace the mechanism (very cheap part)
2. have the star shaped part re-worked to increase slightly the length of the 2 spikes which press against the u shaped part
3. (simplest) use loctite or similar glue on the u-shaped part and slide it in the two holes. after a few minutes it will be so solidly bonded to the body of the mechanism you can forget about it for a number of years. by the way this is what I did on mine - no problem
Kostas
#13
Greg, why don't you just send me your latch mechanism since you just 'ripped it out and never looked back...
Unfortunately, my wifes bruised shins do not lead to kind comments about my street car.
Going to try loctite when I get a minute. That should fix er right up. Thanx for the tips guys.
E. J.
Unfortunately, my wifes bruised shins do not lead to kind comments about my street car.
Going to try loctite when I get a minute. That should fix er right up. Thanx for the tips guys.
E. J.
#14
Originally posted by E. J.:
<STRONG>Greg, why don't you just send me your latch mechanism since you just 'ripped it out and never looked back...
E. J.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Greg, why don't you just send me your latch mechanism since you just 'ripped it out and never looked back...
E. J.</STRONG>
But you are a smart guy and I am sure you will fix it soon.
BTW did you ever play soccer? Look for those old shin guards and let your wife wear them. I see a new fashion trend starting.
#15
My latch mechanism into which the screws tighten must be shot. 90k miles, I suppose that's reasonable, no matter how I position the U and tighten it won't stay shut, so I'll have it addressed at the 90k service.......
caveat - I'm no engineer but this has to be the stupidest design ever, I'm surprised it came from Porsche
caveat - I'm no engineer but this has to be the stupidest design ever, I'm surprised it came from Porsche