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Old 11-10-2004 | 10:37 PM
  #31  
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Talking Profound difference, I can't agree...(Long)

My esteemed Porsche colleague from Half Moon Bay, a true gentleman and scholar, writes above,"Neil, You have a G50/20 gearbox. You can buy a used /21 from a number of sources in Europe or have yours re-geared. It's not cheap but it makes a profound difference." Let me babble a bit here....

I was on the track last weekend driving my car with a real 993RS car. In the secoond session, when he started in front of me, his acceleration out on to the front straight was somewhat better, but not as significant as I thought it would be. Was it the 3.8, the lighter overall car weight, the G50/21 gear box that allowed him to pull me a bit, who is to know. We were withing a second of each other's time on the track, running about 1:15 at the Streets of Willow.

On first run of the day, I came up on him in traffic, and was able to stick to his rear bumper pretty much arond the track. He subsequently gave me a "kindness pass" so he could follow me a round and steal my secrets

Another example, my neighbor and I have nearly identical cars, his a 96 and mine a 97, both with PSS9s, big sway bars, RS aero kits and RS clutch and LWF. The major difference between the two cars, he has G50/21 gearing and a Porsche Motorsports LSD, I have a G-50 bone stock tranny with a stock LSD that has long ago been fried.

In many an acceleration run we ran against each other, over the course of 3 days at the track, he never pulled my car be going on to the main straight, in fact my car would get the jump on his...I was running 18" Kumho Ecsta VictoRacers and they were giving me some extra bite. He was running 17" MPSC tires...we think that may have been the difference. Once I jumped him going into the front straight at California Speedway, he could not catch me...not because I am such a talented driver, NO!, simply stated, the profound difference everyone refers to was not there.

Please note, one really nice thing I have found having driven his G50/21 equipped car around town, with the closer ratios, it is more fun to drive.

Let me commit heresy here (To some), I really question the value of the G50/21 over the stock box based on my personal experience. Others will of course feel differently. If I had $8,000 or so to "invest" in my car (The approximate cost of a conversion to G50/21 specs in my experience), I would pass on thge G50/21 and invest in some steel synchros and a Paul Guard Limited Slip. Figure $2,000 for the Guard unit, 20 hours for a intallation of the steel synchros and LSD...I'd still have $4,000 left to spend on other goodies.

Andial sells a Ring and Pinion set up that gives a 14% lower ratio across all gears, would this be a place to stash the cash remaining?

If you really want a car that kicks butt, is the ultimate 993, import a 993 RS and have it Federalized. You'll drop about $80,000 in the process, maybe more, but you'll be the only guy on the block with a 993RS!
Old 11-10-2004 | 10:51 PM
  #32  
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Martin,

I have been all over Andial's web site looking for more info on their ring and pinion mods. I wasn't able to find anything. Do have info on the pros/cons of their upgrade?

Thanks
Old 11-10-2004 | 11:21 PM
  #33  
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Alex,
Talk to John about a R&P change, one of the best tranny guys is right down the road from him and you in West Chester, OH. Problem is that the R&P won't remove the dead spot between the gears, it will just make all the gears that much shorter. You will still have a significant rpm drop between gears. Now combine the right gears and a R&P and you got something special there. Contrary to Martin's experience I have been able to pull on stock 993's and most of that is due to the gears. I had the same gearbox in my street/track car before I built the race car and at Sebring (long straights) it was very noticeable especially in the higher gears.

Martin,
Why would you take apart the tranny to just put in steel synchros? You wouldn't be able to put them in 1st or 2nd gear just the higher ones. If you had $8000 to invest do the complete box with correct gears, steel synchros, new mainshaft and a proper LSD. That might leave enough to put in a lightweight flywheel and clutch. If you can find a set of stock gears from a 996GT3 Cup those should work well for a 993 and save you some serious bucks. I know Glen has some used ones (at one time) or I can put you in touch with someone who has lots of used gears (these are not worn out gears but ones that teams take out of new trannys so they can gear them for different tracks). .
Old 11-10-2004 | 11:30 PM
  #34  
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Greg's car does pull hard, Brian Copan builds a nice box. Sometimes you can luck into a fresh box at a really good price if you find someone selling a car
Old 11-11-2004 | 12:02 AM
  #35  
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I have a 96 with steve's chip in it i LIKE IT
Old 11-11-2004 | 12:36 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Alan C.
Greg's car does pull hard, Brian Copan builds a nice box. Sometimes you can luck into a fresh box at a really good price if you find someone selling a car

Yes you can! Amazing that the box shifts like new after almost 5 years of use and abuse.

Another thing, Martin, there is a fair amount of variability in the 993 engines and your may be a strong engine compared to your friend with the short gears. Lots of variables to consider.
Old 11-11-2004 | 12:56 AM
  #37  
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As I reported, the very short gear ratios I got from Steve Weiner really transformed my car. I had done a g50/21 conversion on my previous car and felt a big improvement, but with Steve's set of gears, I really feel like I have about 60 hp more...
Old 11-11-2004 | 07:57 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Martin S.
I was on the track last weekend driving my car with a real 993RS car. In the secoond session, when he started in front of me, his acceleration out on to the front straight was somewhat better, but not as significant as I thought it would be. Was it the 3.8, the lighter overall car weight, the G50/21 gear box that allowed him to pull me a bit, who is to know. We were withing a second of each other's time on the track, running about 1:15 at the Streets of Willow.

If you really want a car that kicks butt, is the ultimate 993, import a 993 RS and have it Federalized. You'll drop about $80,000 in the process, maybe more, but you'll be the only guy on the block with a 993RS!
Martin, a genuine RS will have the G50/31 (or /32 if its a Clubsport). They have a longer first and second than /20 and /21, other gears are pretty much in between /20 and /21 - in short, a classic close ratio gear set almost ideal for fast road and track use. None of the gaps of the /20 ...

Speed in km/h at 6000 rpm /31
65/102/135/165/200/250
vs /20
51/96/142/177/214/255
Note the hole 2-3 .... thank the lord for VRam !

cheers, Maurice
Old 11-11-2004 | 08:48 AM
  #39  
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Without getting into the old 2 vs 4 debate, think it's important to compare the same variants. In my (limited) experience, a C2 Varioram with G21 feels a lot more lively than a C4S with G20 ratios. Figures that a C4S would perhaps have the most to gain from a gearing drop?
Old 11-11-2004 | 09:21 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Greg Fishman
If you can find a set of stock gears from a 996GT3 Cup those should work well for a 993 and save you some serious bucks. I know Glen has some used ones (at one time) or I can put you in touch with someone who has lots of used gears (these are not worn out gears but ones that teams take out of new trannys so they can gear them for different tracks). .
Sorry to jump in like this. Greg, I have just bought a 50/80 Guard GT2 LSD and I am considering optimizing my gear ratios for acceleration and putting steel synchros and billet shaft in my TT gearbox at once, would you happen to have a good contact with some of those used but in good condition gearsets and who could advise me on what works best? Obviously I will need to contact them by phone or email.

Steve W., , if you happen to have any good deals on the above, I would really appreciate it if you could let me know. I cannot afford the cost of all new stuff.

Please PM if you don't mind.
Thank you.
Jean
Old 11-11-2004 | 09:35 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by abar
Without getting into the old 2 vs 4 debate, think it's important to compare the same variants. In my (limited) experience, a C2 Varioram with G21 feels a lot more lively than a C4S with G20 ratios. Figures that a C4S would perhaps have the most to gain from a gearing drop?
Two factors in play:

1. C2 is lighter and has fewer mechanical components to turn.
2. The G50/21 has different gearing than G20.

Referring to RS prices: .. afraid $80000 prob will not do it. The cheapest good cars run about Euros 62000, then shipping, federalizing and the desastrous exchange rate.

IMO about $90000 is more reasonable. Add about Euros 8000 for a good RSCS but.... restricted useage.
Old 11-11-2004 | 10:34 AM
  #42  
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Another factor, much less rubber on the road, lower rolling resistance, slightly lower drag with the standard 17s and 205 / 255 tyres, plus less drag from the NB body. Less grip though too..
Old 11-11-2004 | 10:41 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Jean
Sorry to jump in like this. Greg, I have just bought a 50/80 Guard GT2 LSD and I am considering optimizing my gear ratios for acceleration and putting steel synchros and billet shaft in my TT gearbox at once, would you happen to have a good contact with some of those used but in good condition gearsets and who could advise me on what works best? Obviously I will need to contact them by phone or email.

Steve W., , if you happen to have any good deals on the above, I would really appreciate it if you could let me know. I cannot afford the cost of all new stuff.

Please PM if you don't mind.
Thank you.
Jean

Jean,
PM on the way.
Old 11-11-2004 | 11:34 AM
  #44  
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I figure the biggest difference would be with "one gear" acceleration between G50/20 and /21's (or custom gears for that matter), where you're not shifting much. 0-60 or 0-100 acceleration won't be tremendously quicker the same because the extra shifts. I'd bet anything the /21 cars *feel* alot faster because you're ripping through the gears faster and the throttle is a bit more responsive. FWIW, I've noticed the gearing is OK on the /20 in the upper gears, the worst is the gappy 1st to 2nd shift, after that it's not so bad IMHO. So if one can deal with the gappy 1st to 2nd, a R&P swap might just give you that same kick in the butt that the /21 does (especially if you have the wider torque band of a Vram car).
Old 11-11-2004 | 12:22 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by flatair
I figure the biggest difference would be with "one gear" acceleration between G50/20 and /21's (or custom gears for that matter), where you're not shifting much. 0-60 or 0-100 acceleration won't be tremendously quicker the same because the extra shifts. I'd bet anything the /21 cars *feel* alot faster because you're ripping through the gears faster and the throttle is a bit more responsive. FWIW, I've noticed the gearing is OK on the /20 in the upper gears, the worst is the gappy 1st to 2nd shift, after that it's not so bad IMHO. So if one can deal with the gappy 1st to 2nd, a R&P swap might just give you that same kick in the butt that the /21 does (especially if you have the wider torque band of a Vram car).
I watched Marty and the RS run together for 2 days. The straight run starts out in 2nd. and you get into 4th before you jamb on the brakes and turn in regardless of which direction you're going.
I notice right away that the RS was only slightly quicker and only in the lower gears. Marty seemed to stay even with him as they went into 4th. In the turns, Marty was stuck to him like (use your own analogy depending on your current geographic location). Twice he let Marty pass him and I figuered he just got tired of having him in his shorts....
Great driving Marty, loved watching you two run...
JRG


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