Alignment needed after clutch change?
#1
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I am assuming that this is the case, but I wanted to verify it with everyone. I was going to install my PSS-9s soon, but since I am getting close to a clutch/ flywheel change, maybe it is better to wait and do it all (gulp) at the same time. Thoughts?
#4
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I'm no expert here, but I think that you can do the clutch change in an N/A car by dropping just the gearbox. You have to disconnect the axles, but the alignment should remain untouched. In the TT car, the entire engine/gearbox has to come out for the clutch change, but I still think the alignment should be untouched. I think.
#5
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Originally Posted by 993RS
clutch change -> realignment???
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Tom - A clutch/(LW)F change should NOT require a suspension alignment assuming the job is done by an experienced mechanic.
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Yes, you should wait and do both jobs at the same time, so you only need one alignment. Both jobs require an alignment. Unless you can remove your tranny and leave the engine in the car for the clutch job, you will have to remove your rear toe arms. You should mark the eccentric bolts so as to get it close to the way it was when you're done. But for what tires on these cars cost, it's cheaper to get an alignment than to wear out the tires prematurely.
#7
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If you remove the suspension crossmember, you should realign the rear as you removed the toe arms, and the suspension crossmember also has some play in it when remounting(no matter how many marks you use).... However by the time you mount all the heads on the car for the aligner, it is just as easy to do all four wheels...
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I had a new clutch and tranny synchros replaced at the dealer under warranty and an alignment was done. 2 months later I had the PSS-9's done at my local shop................alignment again. The 2nd alignment setup is MUCH better for the track. She's on rails.
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As stated above, if the tech is to remove the engine and gearbox, realignment is really recommended. As ViberBob said, even if you are really particular in marking the subframe position and toe-link eccentrics, if feel it would be a stroke of luck to get it set close to where you were before. Just my .02euros
#10
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Thanks for all the advice. I still have a ways to go on my clutch and am trying to decide how long I can stand to have the PSS9 sitting in my garage. My shocks are really shot. I may just go ahead and install the kit and realign the car a second time later.
#11
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TomF,
Here's a compromise thought: when Viperbob installed my PPS-9 kit, he used a micrometer to set the ride height. When I took the car for the corner balance... no adjustment was needed... Bob had it right on the money. That made the alignment fairly inexpensive. My point is, if you're real careful, maybe you could do those measurements and skip the corner balance on the PSS-9 install, but then do the whole job when you do the clutch. But, as this thread proved... I'm just guessing.
Here's a compromise thought: when Viperbob installed my PPS-9 kit, he used a micrometer to set the ride height. When I took the car for the corner balance... no adjustment was needed... Bob had it right on the money. That made the alignment fairly inexpensive. My point is, if you're real careful, maybe you could do those measurements and skip the corner balance on the PSS-9 install, but then do the whole job when you do the clutch. But, as this thread proved... I'm just guessing.
#12
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Originally Posted by Dan 96C2 St.Louis
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