Rennsport chip report: The Road Miracle That Will Transform Your 993 Into A...
04-13-2003, 05:40 PM
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Rennsport chip report: The Road Miracle That Will Transform Your 993 Into A...
...Sub-Seven Second Quarter Miler, Prevent Your Car From EVER Leaving The Road, Guarantee You A 40% Return On Your Investments and Improve Your Sex Life!
Well, okay, I exaggerated to make a point. Yes, really. Skip down to the last paragraph for the skinny on the title. Or waste two minutes of your day reading this lengthy post.
So. Along with the PSS-9 suspension and RS sway bars, I decided to spring for a modified chip for my ‘95. Concerned that the Car and Driver article from a few years back that debunked engine chips was true? Questioning the value of a chip and if it makes a difference? All I can say is, yes, unequivocally, this particular chip makes a difference and adds more power to the 993.
Steve does not make any wild claims for the horsepower increase, stating that the upgrade adds about 17 hp to the 993 engine. On my 272 hp stock engine, that’s only about a modest 6% increase, so those of you who are looking for a twin-turbo, Fast-And-The Furious-NOS experience will be left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off. The unabashed, chipped engine puts out quite well and often, thank you very much, but, sorry, you can leave the whips and chains and screaming for another partner who has more experience with the toy you’ve, uh, just inserted.
Instead, the engine has been subtly but significantly changed, throttle tip-in being just as smooth, if not smoother, than the stock chip. Prior to installing the chip, my cold start idle oscillated up and down for about twenty seconds before smoothing out, apparently an indication that the ISV valve needs to be cleaned. Now, there is perhaps five seconds of the idle jumping, followed by a glassy idle.
The on-the-road experience has improved, too, the car obviously having more power, the essential characteristics of the engine remaining unchanged. At least on my non-varioram ‘95, without the chip, the engine used to pull strongly from low revs but built up more power past 4,000 rpms or so. The new Rennsport chip adds a thicker layer of power and punch across the entire rev range, making the forward thrust all the more juicier and frenetic. Again, it’s not a dramatic, damn-this-is-the-craziest-fling-I’ve-ever-had change but more of a this-thing-really-knows-what-it’s-doing experience. For $500, it’s worth the moola and you’ll feel the extra speed as you fly down the road.
Installation was fairly easy, the rackin’-snackin, frickin’-frackin’ shear bolts being the only major pain. I had to take the seats out and took Greg Fishman’s advice from many months ago, his recommendation to buy the correct allen key for a socket wrench being right on. Your seat removal will go much more quickly if you can ratchet the bolts out, as opposed to loosening, removing, loosening, removing, etc. with your regular allen key. Plus, you’ll be less likely to round out the hex bolts.
Once the seat is off, you’ll see the engine computer lurking partially under the aluminum cover that’s held on by the friendly shear bolts. Do not let the bolts’ cyclopean eyes intimidate you; instead, get out your dremel tool and attack those suckers where it hurts: right down the center of their evil, domed heads. Pretend you’re a Matrix sentinel, looking to relieve the world of Keanu Reaves’ soaring thespian brilliance and go ahead and breach that hull. If you’re going to use the dremel cut-off wheel, try stacking three of them together to form a stiffer, wider sandwich which can tolerate more of a side load that would otherwise shatter a single wheel. Wear eye protection, too, because you will soon see the principles of centrifugal force in action. Scything cut-off wheel + squishy eyeball = bad.
Even with a deep notch in the heads, a big screwdriver still would not budge some of the bolts. The soft aluminum was not designed for the twisting loads of a screwdriver blade, but I can assure you that the aluminum threads were designed for sinking their intractable teeth into any material and holding on for dear life. I had to take a hammer to the screwdriver and knock the bolts counterclockwise before I could persuade them to relinquish their home of eight years. No tears were shed as I pitched their possessions onto the sidewalk.
Once the aluminum cover is off, simply unbolt the ECU from the car, take off the wiring and look around for the chip that sort of looks like the Rennsport one. Oh, don’t be an idiot like me and try and wedge a little screwdriver in between the circuit board and the underside of the chip base/socket. Nothing will move because the socket is *soldered* onto the board. Instead, bring your screwdriver up one level and gently twist. You’re not taking the whole building out, just the penthouse. Since the new chip was thicker and has two levels, I thought I was taking out two levels from the old chip, too. Incorrect assumption. Your OEM chip will rise up to make way for the Weiner chip which is much thicker, kind of like a double-decker bus. Additionally, be sure to pay attention to the direction of the notch on the original. You want the new one to match up.
Plug your computer harness back in, go through the recommended procedure and start the car up. You’ll know if you screwed up because nothing will happen.
Steve Weiner says to go through three cold starts before the computer relearns the new chip parameters (am I stating this correctly, Steve?) and you experience the full love of your modification. I, however, noticed an improvement after one cold start, an impression I can assure you was not the result of my thinner wallet making my butt dyno more sensitive.
Again, tell your significant other that having more power, like a better suspension, greatly enhances active safety. Why, if a truck dropped a refrigerator out of its bed and into your path and all you had was a small window in between cars in the next lane with which to drive to safety, a 993 without the chip *might* not be able to thread that rapidly closing needle and you would go smashing into that Porsche-chomping, harvest gold Westinghouse. So not good. And we all know stuff like this happens. Please feel free to reproduce this story verbally or in written form as a negotiating tactic, without fear of copyright infringement. No, I am not an insurance salesman. I just rationalize like one.
My recent, prior report on the PSS-9 and RS sway bars, entitled “Road Velcro” was a bit too subtle and understated for some who took my literary license too literally. Hence, I am calling this report “The Road Miracle That Will Transform Your 993 Into A Sub-Seven Second Quarter Miler, Prevent Your Car From EVER Leaving The Road, Guarantee You A 40% Return On Your Investments and Improve Your Sex Life!”
Well, okay, I exaggerated to make a point. Yes, really. Skip down to the last paragraph for the skinny on the title. Or waste two minutes of your day reading this lengthy post.
So. Along with the PSS-9 suspension and RS sway bars, I decided to spring for a modified chip for my ‘95. Concerned that the Car and Driver article from a few years back that debunked engine chips was true? Questioning the value of a chip and if it makes a difference? All I can say is, yes, unequivocally, this particular chip makes a difference and adds more power to the 993.
Steve does not make any wild claims for the horsepower increase, stating that the upgrade adds about 17 hp to the 993 engine. On my 272 hp stock engine, that’s only about a modest 6% increase, so those of you who are looking for a twin-turbo, Fast-And-The Furious-NOS experience will be left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off. The unabashed, chipped engine puts out quite well and often, thank you very much, but, sorry, you can leave the whips and chains and screaming for another partner who has more experience with the toy you’ve, uh, just inserted.
Instead, the engine has been subtly but significantly changed, throttle tip-in being just as smooth, if not smoother, than the stock chip. Prior to installing the chip, my cold start idle oscillated up and down for about twenty seconds before smoothing out, apparently an indication that the ISV valve needs to be cleaned. Now, there is perhaps five seconds of the idle jumping, followed by a glassy idle.
The on-the-road experience has improved, too, the car obviously having more power, the essential characteristics of the engine remaining unchanged. At least on my non-varioram ‘95, without the chip, the engine used to pull strongly from low revs but built up more power past 4,000 rpms or so. The new Rennsport chip adds a thicker layer of power and punch across the entire rev range, making the forward thrust all the more juicier and frenetic. Again, it’s not a dramatic, damn-this-is-the-craziest-fling-I’ve-ever-had change but more of a this-thing-really-knows-what-it’s-doing experience. For $500, it’s worth the moola and you’ll feel the extra speed as you fly down the road.
Installation was fairly easy, the rackin’-snackin, frickin’-frackin’ shear bolts being the only major pain. I had to take the seats out and took Greg Fishman’s advice from many months ago, his recommendation to buy the correct allen key for a socket wrench being right on. Your seat removal will go much more quickly if you can ratchet the bolts out, as opposed to loosening, removing, loosening, removing, etc. with your regular allen key. Plus, you’ll be less likely to round out the hex bolts.
Once the seat is off, you’ll see the engine computer lurking partially under the aluminum cover that’s held on by the friendly shear bolts. Do not let the bolts’ cyclopean eyes intimidate you; instead, get out your dremel tool and attack those suckers where it hurts: right down the center of their evil, domed heads. Pretend you’re a Matrix sentinel, looking to relieve the world of Keanu Reaves’ soaring thespian brilliance and go ahead and breach that hull. If you’re going to use the dremel cut-off wheel, try stacking three of them together to form a stiffer, wider sandwich which can tolerate more of a side load that would otherwise shatter a single wheel. Wear eye protection, too, because you will soon see the principles of centrifugal force in action. Scything cut-off wheel + squishy eyeball = bad.
Even with a deep notch in the heads, a big screwdriver still would not budge some of the bolts. The soft aluminum was not designed for the twisting loads of a screwdriver blade, but I can assure you that the aluminum threads were designed for sinking their intractable teeth into any material and holding on for dear life. I had to take a hammer to the screwdriver and knock the bolts counterclockwise before I could persuade them to relinquish their home of eight years. No tears were shed as I pitched their possessions onto the sidewalk.
Once the aluminum cover is off, simply unbolt the ECU from the car, take off the wiring and look around for the chip that sort of looks like the Rennsport one. Oh, don’t be an idiot like me and try and wedge a little screwdriver in between the circuit board and the underside of the chip base/socket. Nothing will move because the socket is *soldered* onto the board. Instead, bring your screwdriver up one level and gently twist. You’re not taking the whole building out, just the penthouse. Since the new chip was thicker and has two levels, I thought I was taking out two levels from the old chip, too. Incorrect assumption. Your OEM chip will rise up to make way for the Weiner chip which is much thicker, kind of like a double-decker bus. Additionally, be sure to pay attention to the direction of the notch on the original. You want the new one to match up.
Plug your computer harness back in, go through the recommended procedure and start the car up. You’ll know if you screwed up because nothing will happen.
Steve Weiner says to go through three cold starts before the computer relearns the new chip parameters (am I stating this correctly, Steve?) and you experience the full love of your modification. I, however, noticed an improvement after one cold start, an impression I can assure you was not the result of my thinner wallet making my butt dyno more sensitive.
Again, tell your significant other that having more power, like a better suspension, greatly enhances active safety. Why, if a truck dropped a refrigerator out of its bed and into your path and all you had was a small window in between cars in the next lane with which to drive to safety, a 993 without the chip *might* not be able to thread that rapidly closing needle and you would go smashing into that Porsche-chomping, harvest gold Westinghouse. So not good. And we all know stuff like this happens. Please feel free to reproduce this story verbally or in written form as a negotiating tactic, without fear of copyright infringement. No, I am not an insurance salesman. I just rationalize like one.
My recent, prior report on the PSS-9 and RS sway bars, entitled “Road Velcro” was a bit too subtle and understated for some who took my literary license too literally. Hence, I am calling this report “The Road Miracle That Will Transform Your 993 Into A Sub-Seven Second Quarter Miler, Prevent Your Car From EVER Leaving The Road, Guarantee You A 40% Return On Your Investments and Improve Your Sex Life!”
04-13-2003, 06:41 PM
#3
Drifting
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So it this chip upgrade a trade in replacement or a second chip? The reason I ask is I was wondering if you retain the factory chip if for some reason you wanted to put it back in.
04-13-2003, 06:48 PM
#4
Should be a second chip. Steve doesn't ask for trade ins, just delivers a new one to be installed. I put one in my 95 as well. Steve's a champ to deal with and doesn't make any overblown claims to Hp increases, just tells it like it is.
04-13-2003, 08:43 PM
#5
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mark in Baltimore:
<strong>...left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mark,
The answer is "yes", but it does require the ability to perform, without early detonation. So, check your octane.
<strong>...left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mark,
The answer is "yes", but it does require the ability to perform, without early detonation. So, check your octane.
04-13-2003, 08:50 PM
#6
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Anir:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mark in Baltimore:
<strong>...left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mark,
The answer is "yes", but it does require the ability to perform, without early detonation. So, check your octane.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Good one Anir!!!
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mark in Baltimore:
<strong>...left lying awake in the middle of the night, unfulfilled, staring at the glow of your alarm clock, questioning if there’s another way for you to get your rocks off...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Mark,
The answer is "yes", but it does require the ability to perform, without early detonation. So, check your octane.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Good one Anir!!!
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04-14-2003, 01:20 AM
#8
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The 98 is not a chip. After MY 95, the ECU's have to be removed form the the car and sent out to be reprogrammed. The later models (except for the 96 which I hear can be reprogrammed by Todd Knighten) are flash programmable. The 95 and before models can be changed by just changing the chip.
04-14-2003, 04:56 AM
#10
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Labatt:
<strong>Anyone know what the reason is as to why the '95 chip is around $500 and the '98 chip is $1K or so? Just curious - that's a pretty big jump. Thanks!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">There is no technical reason; flashing is cheaper than swapping. I'm guessing the reason is similar to the reason for charging $3500 (or more)for a 996TT upgrade, it is just what owners of a specific model are willing to pay. Kind of like the $100 difference in price between 993 & 964 gauge faces that I've seen some places charge (is there a difference?)
<img border="0" alt="[soapbox]" title="" src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" />
<strong>Anyone know what the reason is as to why the '95 chip is around $500 and the '98 chip is $1K or so? Just curious - that's a pretty big jump. Thanks!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">There is no technical reason; flashing is cheaper than swapping. I'm guessing the reason is similar to the reason for charging $3500 (or more)for a 996TT upgrade, it is just what owners of a specific model are willing to pay. Kind of like the $100 difference in price between 993 & 964 gauge faces that I've seen some places charge (is there a difference?)
<img border="0" alt="[soapbox]" title="" src="graemlins/soapbox.gif" />
04-14-2003, 11:00 AM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mark in Baltimore:
<strong>Anir - I guess I was more worried about a seized rod from using the incorrect lubrication viscosity.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"><img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />
<strong>Anir - I guess I was more worried about a seized rod from using the incorrect lubrication viscosity.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"><img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />
04-14-2003, 09:46 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Mark in Baltimore:
<strong>Anir - I guess I was more worried about a seized rod from using the incorrect lubrication viscosity.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Indeed, you need an oil that works over a wide temperature range, since the lubricant tends to thin out as things heat up. Many knowledgeable sources recommend synthetic, but I think there will always be a valid argument for natural.
<strong>Anir - I guess I was more worried about a seized rod from using the incorrect lubrication viscosity.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Indeed, you need an oil that works over a wide temperature range, since the lubricant tends to thin out as things heat up. Many knowledgeable sources recommend synthetic, but I think there will always be a valid argument for natural.
