solsrch

So far I've tried PB Blaster (applied multiple times over days). Heating the housing with a torch. The Sears extractors, hammered on for tight fit, buzzed through three sizes so far. Ground down two sides and used an open end wrench that was an exceedingly tight fit. Oh, and I gave the giant channel locks (16" couldn't find any 20") a couple of trys. I don't want to drill into this thing but feel I'm beginning to run out of options. Frankly, the amount of the head left is dwindling as each of these efforts shreads off some amount. Any other ideas I'm missing? I don't have any welding gear so I can't run down that road. TIA

viperbob

At this stage, I would use a dremel with a cutting wheel and start cutting away. Remember, there is an aluminum washer that is keeping the pressure on the head of the bolt. It also gives you some stand off from damaging the oil tank. Start cutting in sections towards the outside of the drain plug and into the aluminum washer. In no time you should have freed the tension and then I am sure on of your wrenches will get it off....

chris walrod

Also keep a drain pan readily available, eventually you'll hit oil.. Good luck!! Probably already done so, but have a new replacement in hand or at least have it on order.

ApexL8

I would keep at it until the plug is worn down enough so that the next smaller size of the Craftsman bolt extractors will fit. Or sand/dremel enough material off until the next smaller size will just fit, trying to maintain a very square profile, not matching the conical shape that the bolt extractor is creating.

The only reason that I can think of that the bolt extractor you are presently using is not already working is that the plug is worn down to the point where the extractor is bottoming out before it gets a full bite on the plug.

The heating mentioned several times above is a good idea. Also, if you can get a whack at it with something heavy a few taps can sometimes do wonders loosening threads.

If you get to the point where you drill a hole to use a fluted screw extractor then Sears also sells those.

Craftsman Screw Extractors

But, if you can find this stubbier type somewhere I would get those instead, I have had much more success with this type:

Mac Screw Extractors

Derrick B.

Joe,
This is the nightmare I have every time I think about doing a DIY! Good luck, looks like you're getting some excellent advise. At least the car is drivable while you figure it out.

Chris L

Joe,

I'd attack it with a Dremel tool. Just proceed slowly and carefully and you'll be fine. I've got one if you need to borrow it.

Chris.

Ron

If you want to take the measurements I described above do so and provide them to me. If it looks like my extactor may work I'll loan it to you.

jw97C2S

I would track down a welder in your area (maybe a rennlister). They usually charge very little and plus you can attempt to remove it immediately after he's finished.

Premier Motorsp

Even an expert welder is going to have a tough time welding a steel nut to that aluminum plug.

abar

You could drill a hole then hammer in an ez out. They work pretty good, though are very hard, so don't snap one.

Any ideas from this link? http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm

Al.

peterf

I have used Apex's suggested technique in the past in similar non P-car situations with great success. Dremel that baby down to get some new flats on it and get the next size smaller bolt extractor on it. The flats will give it really nice bite and you will be in business. Keep the faith and it will break free.
Good luck,
Peter

viperbob

The plugs are steel....

solsrch

Bob,
After shredding a lot of material off this plug, I can assure you it is not steel. I'm virtually positive it is aluminum. Maybe that, along with being overtorqued, is the problem.

Ray Calvo

What I've used on stripped head bolts (usually Allen bolts) is a small 6" pipe wrench (type with grooves on the wrench faces, not flat-face). I grab the nut head, then pound on the end of the wrench face with my 32 oz. ball peen hammer. The wrench head gets a good grip on the nut face, and the hammering I think shocks the nut loose.

As described by viperbob, your other option might be to carefully Dremel and break off all of the bolt face that is contacting the engine case, leaving only the exposed nut head. There should be a copper washer between the bolt face and the engine, so even if you go under the bolt face a little you should contact the nut and not damage the engine case. I did this once on a oil filter that was overtightened on my old '84 Carrera.

24FPS

(this may be a stupid idea.... but....) here goes... if you cannot weld a nut to it... how 'bout applying some 'jb-weld' to it, let it set over night & give that a 'go'... i'd @ least try it before actually cutting & drilling. like others mentioned, i'd get the engine nice & warm before trying. also, it appears (imho) that that may not be an 'oem' plug. maybe your 'pitstop' (or p.o.) inserted a new one of their own. (aluminium) mine appears to be steel as 'v.b' earlier stated.

bol & here's to gettin' that mother off!!!!!