Dbltime

Here is what I have:
locked car with the alarm on.
primary key that will not deactivate the alarm and unlock the car.
spare key that is not coded but the key is cut fo this car.
the immobilizer code.
the little red light on the primary key fob does not light when depressed. Battery is good.
the key fob light on the spare key does light.
I pulled the horn wire so that I can get inside the car with the alarm going off without the horn blowing.
My first goal is to start the car and get it to the shop. My ultimate goal is to get rid of this system completely.

Any ideas?

vjd3

If you have the code, the procedure for disabling the alarm is in the manual, which I don't have handy; essentially, you turn the key in the lock once for each number on the code. IE, if the code is 1995, turn it once, pause, turn it nine times, pause, etc.

Vic
95 C4

Dbltime

Vic, That sounds way to easy. I will try it as soon as I get home. You may have saved me a huge hassle towing the car to get this resolved.

Thanks,
bill

vjd3

It's designed so that if the battery on the keyfob goes dead, you can still use the car; this happened to me once.

Now, if your immobiliizer has lost its head, I'm not sure it will help, but it's worth a shot.

Here's the procedure:

Unlock - lock unlock the door within 5 seconds. This deactivates the horn.

Within 10 seconds, switch the ignition on. You have 100 seconds to enter the code. Here's how:

After the immobilizer warning light goes off, switch ignition off, then on. the light should come on again.

Enter the first number on the code, switching the ignition off-on once for the digit.

Wait three seconds, and the light will come on again.

Do the second number, etc.

Once you're done, the car should start. Don't remove the key or you'll have to go through the whole thing again.

Once you've done that, you can try to calibrate the remote you have that has a working battery; within a minute of performing the procedure, hold down the button on the remote until the LED in the door starts flashing. That should set the remote to the immoblizer.

I'd forgotten what a PITA the whole thing is, but it did work for me. Page 16 of the manual, btw, "emergency unlocking,"

Good luck ...

Vic
95 C4

Matt Vaughan

Bill, have Steve Weiner remap your ECU, and he can then disable the immobilizer. You'll have more power and your headache will go away.

Hope you don't have a '96 MY car though.

Dbltime

Matt, Us Club Racer types would never modify the ECU, against the rules you know.

Martin S.

[quote]Originally posted by Matt Vaughan:
<strong>Bill, have Steve Weiner remap your ECU, and he can then disable the immobilizer. You'll have more power and your headache will go away.

Hope you don't have a '96 MY car though.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Making the Immobilizer go away, and pick up 10 HP or so makes Steve's ECU sound a lot better. I have one set of keys for the car and dread the thought of losing them...Monday I go in for another set. The last time I went in they couldn't duplicate the key fob...said something was wrong with my ECU. I think Bozo might have been on the job that day. We'll see...if it is the ECU, hmmmmm, I guess I'll need a new one!