GT from the UK

How big a job is it to fit new discs and pads to a '96 993?

Do I need a workshop manual, or can I find the instructions online - and do I need any special tools (or special skills)?

I thought it might be a good project for the winter months - but I don't want to start and then wish I hadn't.

DJF1

check out Robin's site for the most complete DYI section on our cars:

<a href="http://p-car.com/diy/diy.htm" target="_blank">Robin's DYI section</a>

Good luck and welcome to Rennlist!
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Ray Calvo

Getting the brake anti-squeal garbage off is the biggest PITA. Once it's off brakes are a dream.

DO an archive search, lazybones. Lots of info/tips out there!

GT from the UK

Thanks for the suggestions - I did try an archive search. Maybe the US use of 'rotor' instead of 'disc' was the stumbling block!

Silver Bullet mentions problems with reattaching the brake line to the caliper - but Robin's DIY page says to cut part of the bracket away so you can leave the lines connected.

Has anyone tried cutting that bracket away? - it looks like the procedure has the potential for disaster and a visit to ER.

Robert Henriksen

I recently changed my front discs (rotors?) and pads, and used Robin's DIY instructions. The toughest part was using the Dremel to create the cutout for the brake line. There are two different collets supplied for the Dremel: one's a fatter, hand-tighten design and the other's smaller but requires a wrench. I should have used the smaller one! I scored up the rubber grease boot on the swaybar droplink, but don't appear to have actually created a leak.

Other than that, it was very straightfoward. I'd already changed pads a few times, so had already figured out the pad R&R procedure out the top of the caliper. If your existing pads have the factory anti-squeal backing plates, you'll find it much easier to remove the pads & plates w. the caliper off than in place. So it's good timing to go ahead w. the Dremel procedure and rotor swap. Here's a Robin photo where you can see the proximity of the droplink to the cutting area:



Oh, and DO siphon off some of the brake fluid out of the reservoir! I finally got burned this last DIY - the volume of fluid displaced by the front calipers is definitely large enough to backflow fluid into the trunk <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> .

Oh, and I highly recommend investing in a Motive power bleeder. After new pads, rotors, and a complete fluid flush/bleed, my brakes are a ROCK!
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />

Tom W

If your pads do have the factory anti-squeal stuff in place, you do not need to remove the caliper. I used a 1 inch putty knife to free the pad from the anti-squeal thingies. The pad then slides out easily and you remove the anti-squeal things that look like suction cups. (I think Tim warned me about these and the use of the putty knife when I was doing it the first time.) Throw them away and don't look back. 14,000 miles later, mine have not made a sound since.