AustinL

Well, today I picked up my car after having the two top motors in my convertible top replaced. Unfortunately, I drove in stop and go traffic on 121 for a about an hour and a half on my way home from the Willow Bend mall in Plano. After about 45 minutes, the break pad indicator light came on. This instantly concerned me, so I stopped at a gas station to check things out.

When I got back in the car and turned it back on the light did not come on again. I then proceeded to drive home, which took about another half an hour and the light still did not come on.

I then called my service manager to get her input and she said that it would be fine for me to drive my car for a few days, until I can take it in on Thursday morning. She reiterated that they just checked my brake pads in March during service, when the car was at about 42,000 miles. I now have close to 46,000 miles on the car. The brake pads were also checked after March for state inspection.

So is it possible that besides the need for replacement brake pads there could be another issue since the light is intermittent? Regardless, I plan to take my car to be serviced Thursday. The reason why I am waiting is because they are going to give me a loaner (Boxster), due to my needing a car to drive to school.

This is a completely new issue for me, so any input, suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. I did take a look at the rotors (or the drilled holes--sorry for not knowing for sure what to call these parts) and there was no warping, rivets, or one thing I was told check for was an uneven surface.

Thanks for the help.

AustinL

That's exactly what bothers me. I don't mind taking my car in, but I feel like I am doing all of the troubleshooting for them. I understand that they were technically only working on the convertible top this past week, but you think they would just check certain things on a car at close to 46,000 miles.

I drove some tonight and the light only came on once, so we'll see. Unless it comes on permanently I think I will wait to take it in until Thursday.

If anyone has another suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks.

os993

Austin,
46k is in-between major tune-ups (30k and 60k)..so unless you give them specific instructions to check brakes, change oil, etc.. I don't see any fault with your shop.

fbfisher

Seems to me that a critical question that I am sure that someone on this board can answer is - How low are the pads when the light comes on? How many miles are left on the pads (under normal around town driving conditions) when the circuit is broken and the light comes on? Ok, thats two questions.

I have always replaced the pads before I ever saw a light - I'm afraid to admit that I've even heard grinding but never got a light - so I don't know if the manufacturers have a uniform depth at which they put the sensor.

Ray Calvo

Does the brake pedal feel OK? Are the brakes pulling to one side or the other? Is the ABS kicking in under light braking?

NO? Then turn off the computer, grab a flashlight, and look in throught the wheel spokes toward the inner edge of the brake calper. You should be able to see the inner edge of the pads; generally as a metal plate with either some lining material between it and the rotor surface or else free space between the plate and the rotor. If you see 1/16" space minimum between the backing plate and the rotor, you should be fine for at least a week. If the metal plate is right up against the rotor (i.e., no lining left), then don't drive it.

I think the warning system is set up to actuate with the pads worn down to about 1/8", but uncertain about this. This could give you either an additional 10 miles or 10,000, depending on how you drive.

AustinL

I took a look, but it was very difficult to tell.

What I am going to do is not drive the car until Thursday when I take it to the dealer. And when I drive it over there I am going to do my best to use the brakes as little as possible.

I am bummed that the light didn't come on last week before I took it over there for the convertible top repair, because then I could have had them replace the pads as well.

Too bad they didn't hold out until the 50,000 mile service.

Thanks for the help everyone. I won't drive it, because I don't want to do anything to damage this car.

Robert Henriksen

Austin, don't get too uptight about this. I've used my brake pads down to the warning light, and then swapped the pads myself. The old pads had plenty of life to get you around for a couple of weeks of street driving.

Don't be so paranoid that you ram into something on the way to the dealership, is what I'm trying to say. You wouldn't want to do any track driving w. that little brake pad left, but on the street for a little while it's no big deal.

993,951,944

Austin,

Sorry to hear about the dreaded warning light.
Another explanation for the light is the
brake fluid pressure indicator light is
activating. This light looks similar to the brake pad indicator. This light activates on my C4S
every time at start up and turns off within
10-20 seconds after pressure is up to specification. I think '95 year models have
the same system.

Good luck with the troubleshooting,

AustinL

Thanks for the great replies. I won't be too paranoid Robert--I can understand your warning, especially with highway traffic.

When I take it over to Dallas on Thursday, I am also planning to have them take a look at the clutch and flywheel. I have had the hanging clutch problem for a while, but I think it would be prudent to have them check some other things out as well.

I was originally planning to wait on all this until the 50,000 mile service, which I was going to have done over Christmas break. Is there anything else I should go ahead and have them check now?

Also, would you recommend upgrading to Turbo brakes, and if I do are there other parts I will also need to upgrade then? It's just an idea, but I am not really sure whether Turbo brakes would make a difference for just everyday driving. I never track the car, so the regular brakes might be more than enough.

That is a good suggestion about the brake fluid...I will have them check that as well. I am still very impressed with how strong this car is going into close to 50,000 miles. It rides much smoother, has more agility, and seem much better built than my sister's '99 M3 Cabriolet.

While my car was in the shop last week, I drove an XKR 100 and the difference was amazing. When I go 80 in the Porsche, it feels like I am going half that fast. But it gets uncomfortable in a Jaguar as you get up over 70 mph, at least compared to the Porsche.

When I was at the dealer, they had a 2002 red cab with full leather and red stiching. It was a beautiful car, but then again after seeing that, I saw mine and thought "I'm going stick with this one for a long time." Sorry, this is starting to get off topic...

Tom W

Austin: You have a few mm left on the pads when the sensor gets activated. Driving for a few miles (or a few hundred) is not going to damage your brakes.

Check out the DIY on Robin's site. Even if you have 5 thumbs on each hand you can change the pads (or inspect them) yourself. You need 3 tools: a jack, a torque wrench (both to remove the wheels) and a vice grips. Ok, a big screwdriver comes in handy too. It is incredible simple.

Ray Calvo

[quote]Check out the DIY on Robin's site. Even if you have 5 thumbs on each hand you can change the pads (or inspect them) yourself. You need 3 tools: a jack, a torque wrench (both to remove the wheels) and a vice grips. Ok, a big screwdriver comes in handy too. It is incredible simple.<hr></blockquote>

Austin, if you have never done a brake job before, it is NOT a straightforward job. Reason is the anti-squeal hardware that is on the brake pistons and the brake backing plates. Getting this garbage off is a royal nightmare. The little sensors on the brake pads that warn you when the lining is too this also are a PITA to get off whole; in 15 years of doing 911 brake jobs I have never had better than a 50% success rate with them.

Once the anti-squeal garbage and the brake lining sensors are off, the pads come out readily. And if you don't bother reinstalling this junk, the brakes really can be the easiest to do on any car out there. However, if you have never done brakes before, don't start on these.

Now inspection is different; once you pull a wheel you can very easily see the remaining brake pad lining thickness.

Do an archive check for 'anti-squeal' or 'brakes' for more info.

Tom W

No offense Ray, but I had never done a brake job before (hell, I'd never even seen a brake pad before) when I did mine. I was shocked at how simple it was and can't imagine paying a dealer to do it anymore.

I just read everything written in various threads from an archive search and printed the DIY instructions. (And if I remember correctly, Ray was a prime contributor to it.) When I did the work I went slowly and made sure I understood what I was supposed to do before I did it. The key, as Ray points out, is not to be suprised if the anti-squeal stuff is in place. Another Rennlist member (Tim) provided the critical tip of using a putty knife to seperate the pad from the anti-squeal "cups". It worked like a charm. The pads then slide out easily and the anti-squeal thingies are removed after the pad is out.

I did break 2 of the four sensors (they crumbled when I went to remove them) but the DIY tells how to eliminate them and not be bothered by the dash light. I did eventually replace them (boy are they over priced). It took about 3 hours to do the job as an complete novice. I think the thing that took the longest was figuring out how to unplug the sensor wires from the housing that they go to.

I think learning to do stuff like this (and how simple some of it is) is what makes this board great. I talked to a lot of people about the LWF and stalling in '95's but it was a simple post on this board that let me know the ISV could be tweaked to eliminate the problem.

Norbert

At what point do you have to take the rotors to have them "turned" or resurfaced?
Thanks.

Robert Henriksen

[quote]Originally posted by Norbert:
<strong>At what point do you have to take the rotors to have them "turned" or resurfaced?
Thanks.</strong><hr></blockquote>

You don't! Resurfacing the cross-drilled (okay, 'cast-in holes') rotors of the 993 is specifically contra-indicated in the manual.

AustinL

Thanks for all of the great replies. I went ahead and dropped my car off for service this morning. I don't have the guts I think to change the brake pads myself.

While it is there I am having them do a front to end inspection, and an alignment. I am also having them fix the hanging clutch pedal problem.

They gave me a Boxster to drive, something I am very appreciative considering that my car is out of warranty. Needless to say, after driving a Boxster for today I've realized that I am going to be keeping my 993 for quite some time. How comprobable is a Boxster in comparison to the 996? One thing that really bothers me is the interior of the Boxster. The materials seem very cheap. What are your thoughts and opinions? I am sure the 996 is much nicer, but is it similar in a lot of ways?

It just made me appreciate the 993 even more. Perhaps, my thoughts would be different if I got to drive an S with full leather interior?