Help on the RS hub adapter
#1
Burning Brakes
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I've looked through most of the posts including Jeff's pics but had a couple of questions for those who have done this upgrade.
1. How does the old pulley mount come off the fan. Does it unscrew from the back side? Do you have to take the ring out for the roller bearing at all? I assume that it has to come off for the new RS hub to go on, right?
2. The RS hub sits on the shaft up against the alternator and is secured by the main bolt on the front, tightened very tight. Does this not cause problems spinning against the alternator. Does it slip as the metal gets worn away? Am I missing something?
3. To change the belt then do I just unscrew the 3 bolts on the RS hub?
I'll revisit PET as I go, but any suggestions on what shims and spacers to use would be great. Thanks,
1. How does the old pulley mount come off the fan. Does it unscrew from the back side? Do you have to take the ring out for the roller bearing at all? I assume that it has to come off for the new RS hub to go on, right?
2. The RS hub sits on the shaft up against the alternator and is secured by the main bolt on the front, tightened very tight. Does this not cause problems spinning against the alternator. Does it slip as the metal gets worn away? Am I missing something?
3. To change the belt then do I just unscrew the 3 bolts on the RS hub?
I'll revisit PET as I go, but any suggestions on what shims and spacers to use would be great. Thanks,
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#2
Burning Brakes
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You have to take out the entire old hub, bearing and all. The RS hubs rides along with the alternator shaft, no metal rubs at all. The belt is changed with the three nuts.
#3
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Thanks JC - I now see that there is no rubbing and that the belt is changed with the 3 nuts - 4 including myself, but does the old hub UNSCREW? How does that sucker come out - Thanks, John
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#4
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I will assume you have the entire alternator assembly out of the car.
Use a small three jaw puller and feed the small arms into the slots on the front side of the fan blade. Use a small scrap of metal to protect the center part of the shaft when using the puller. Put a small amount of lubricant just on the shaft at the bearing. Do not get any where the fan rides on the bearing. Now use the puller and the fan should come off with the bearing. Once off, put the fan on a solid surface (wood preferably so not to damage the back side of the fan) use a plastic hammer and pound out the bearing. Use some lubricant here now and it will come out easier.
The p-car.com site tells you to beat on the shaft of the alternator to try and get the fan off. DO NOT DO THIS AS IT WILL DESTROY the alternator shaft and potentially damage the fan.....
Use a small three jaw puller and feed the small arms into the slots on the front side of the fan blade. Use a small scrap of metal to protect the center part of the shaft when using the puller. Put a small amount of lubricant just on the shaft at the bearing. Do not get any where the fan rides on the bearing. Now use the puller and the fan should come off with the bearing. Once off, put the fan on a solid surface (wood preferably so not to damage the back side of the fan) use a plastic hammer and pound out the bearing. Use some lubricant here now and it will come out easier.
The p-car.com site tells you to beat on the shaft of the alternator to try and get the fan off. DO NOT DO THIS AS IT WILL DESTROY the alternator shaft and potentially damage the fan.....
Last edited by viperbob; 08-13-2004 at 11:34 AM.
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Yes JC, it is a fun little project. I can do this now in under and hour start to finish. I also no longer remove the alternator from the car. I just loosen the fan assembly, turn it up on top of the engine so that I can get the puller on the fan and go from there....
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I make a tool for about 100.00 USD, that is available through FVD, that allows extraction of the fan/hub-bearing assy. without removing the alternator/fan housing, or even loosening it. It makes replacement of the hub/bearing a 45 min. job. Ditto for the RS hub upgrade, 45 min. start to finish, and you dont need to disconnect the battery or any thing. I am surprised that more shops arent choosing this method, but it seems to be catching on. Give Evan or Jay @ FVD a call.
Peace, Jayster.
Peace, Jayster.
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Hey Viper Bob, I bought a set of your 928 headers, and had Austin and your fabricator cook up a nice little merge for it to run on a street car. Really nice job, tell Susan and the gang thanks, again, really nice job.
Peace Jayster.
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