In my apparent quest to obtain every tool known to mankind (and to squander my children's inheritance in the process), I am trying to locate a brake pad spreader tool to make changing pads easier.

I was hoping to use my Kerr track pads on the street, but the squealing is drawing attention from folks standing several blocks down the street! So, I've decided to switch out the pads after every DE event.

Anyone know where to get a tool as shown below for a more reasonable price than the $189 requested by <a href="http://www.eagleday.com/braksertool.html" target="_blank">Eagle Day</a> ?

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/eagleday_1738_237737.gif" alt=" - " />

 

No other option that I know of. And to let you know, I fully support you in your quest. Technically this is the tool to push back the pistons into the caliper. You need the tool above this one (another$95) to do that job.

Or you could just do what I and most others do and get a couple hefty screwdrivers and some channel locks. Most likely less than $30, unless you get them from the Snap-On truck.

 

Anir,
Even less $$, a medium size C clamp used to squeeze the old pads back, then quickly remove the old ones and pop in the new ones. If you not quick, save a old worn pad or a backing plate,slip that in front of the pistons if they pop out or if the pads your removing are more worn that the pads your putting in. I too saw that tool last year, but a little more that I would spend...
Orange pads going in tomm. for Mid Ohio!!!
By the way, if you use the C clamp method ,epoxy a rubber pad on the ends of the clamp, wont scratch your caliper when you tighten the clamp against the caliper to push back the pads.

 

Anir:

At the club race, I saw a home made device like the one you have pictured. While it is hard to explain, it would be easy to make. It was made with two different pipes. One was a smaller diameter and slipped inside the larger pipe. The assembly was about 1 foot long. Welded to each pipe was a plate that would spread the pads and also force the pistons to retract. On one end of the pipe there was a nut that was welded to the end and the other end had a fixed mounting point that located the threaded rod. By turning the bolt head on the threaded rod, the pipes would telescope or retract.

I hope this description gives you an accurate idea of the thing.

Hank

 

I stick a thin screwdriver down in the groove in the center of the pad and pry. Just got to move the pad a little to pull it out with your fingers.

 

I use a Paint Scraper, about 3" width, and get it between the pistons and the pad, and pry gently. The beveled edge of the scraper makes it a snap to slide it in there. All I need is a mm or two gap, then I can get a screwdriver in and lever the pistons back. Easy, Fast, and CHEAP!! Like many here, I swap pads before and after each track event, and it takes literally maybe two or three minutes per wheel.

Anir, if you're really bent on spending dough, send me over some PSS9s to test out...for trial/review purposes only, mind you. I swear I'll give them back in, oh say 1 or 7 seven years. I'll even document the experiment with a complete writeup

Edward

 

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the advice.

I've also been getting by with the screwdriver technique, but this seems to require that I get between the pad material and rotor to get leverage. When doing that with the racing pads, I managed to knock little chunks of pad material off. Therefore, I thought that it would be cool to have a tool that can spread the pads by placing the force on the lip of the pad's backing plate instead of the the pad material itself.

I thought about the c-clamp method, but was worried about marring the powder-coated finish of the calipers. I might try Eric's suggestion about pads on the c-clamp surfaces, if I can't find a reasonably priced spreader tool. Edward, a paint scraper sounds like a great idea, as well. Kim's SPX tool also looks like an interesting variation on the c-clamp theme.

 

The guy at Ultimate Garage sells a very good "piston retractor" as I like to call it. My friend Karl who races a 996 cup car has one. I finally found it buried on his webiste <a href="http://www.ultimategarage.com/brakemsc.html" target="_blank">here</a> for $180. It is very similar to a c clamp, but instead of the "C"s, it has two flat pieces of steel. So you lay it across the 4 pistons and turn the handle. Presto chango, 4 retracted pistons.

Personally, I never worried about nicking the paint on my calipers using a big screwdriver, but I didn't have fancy red calipers either. Greg, you have seen me use this thing at VIR, you just probably didn't really pay it any mind.

Good tool, but way overpriced imho.

E. J.

 

Hmmmm, pipe and threaded rod, thanks for the idea Hank. Even counting my labor ($0.32/hr) I won't get anywhere near $180.

 

I use the channel locks with gas line over each jaw if the caliper is off the car. If it is on the car, then I use an old worn brake pad rotated sideways and use it as a lever between the rotor and the piston as it has a nice wide surface area. Much safer on the nice red calipers and the rotors instead of using a screwdriver.

 

This is the spreader tool that I use. I got it from MAC for about $20 or $25 if I remember right. Works really well.

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/padspreader.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/padspreader.jpg</a>

 

EJ,

It's interesting to know that there is another $180 choice out there!

Chris,

That's the tool that Kim linked for $18.60 on sale. Can you use it to spread the pads (by their outer lips) while still in the caliper? Looks like a good option.

 

Call me simple (been called worse), but I just wrap my channel locks and a screwdriver with a bit of duct tape for a cusion. When done, I just unwrap it and wipe down with a bit of "Goo Off". It protects all of the surfaces and does not scrape anything.

 

David, I am with you on this. At times we look for an expensive and "more appropriate" solution and end up no better. I found lots of uses for duct tape, you just added another one to my list. It also works good to hold the socket and extension together when installing spark plugs.

 

Greg,

So does this mean that you'll stick with duct tape and channel locks if I buy one of our lovely $180 selections? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

My life hasn't been complete since the "three little pigs" (Hazet sockets 19/21/22 mm) left to visit you! <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />