Filling Bumperette holes..??
07-25-2004, 02:00 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by chris walrod
I would be willing to help out any left coasters who wish to fill their bumperette openings. Only catch is you will have to find someone to paint the bumper cover.. ...
I'll do the same for anyone on the "other coast" - but, like Chris - you'll have to find a paint shop for the respray - and please, please - bring it by with your cover already "off" the car, please??!!
07-25-2004, 04:06 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
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John - Great job, did you rough up the whole bumper to shoot it? How about the washer holes - did you do some welding on the metal, and what was the method for filling and painting. I realize there are volumes written on how to do this, but you seem to summarize pretty darn well, and I would love to give this a shot myself, after all, I think of myself as an artist - I do alot of painting and I'm, well, frugal, and I get to buy new tools!! 
07-25-2004, 06:57 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
Hey JD & Jim...
My pleasure Jim..! If I remember - I get a model number for you, OK??
JD - great questions! I wish I had taken pictures, but I think I filled those at about 1AM on day last week..
Here is a short step-by-step.....
With the bumper cover off, simply grab the hose and push the washer out while twisting the hose a bit - it will pop right out. Next - remove the hoses, clips, tank - and under where the hose passes through to the washer - a rubber grommet. Remove that grommet, as you won't need it....
Next - roughen up the edges of the old washer hole, and underneath. You sort of have to use your finger to get up there, but, you'll need a bonding surface for the next step....
Next - no, I didn't weld in a new piece - as inside the fender in that area is a two-piece, so I didn't feel comfortable welding inside out. Rather, I took some SEM fiberglass tape (which is nothing more then plasterers tape - but - I like SEM products ) and from under the hole - bonded a small piece from the inside. I used SEM filler epoxy for that.
Next - begin filling with a fine body filler. Since I hate the brand Bondo, I use a micro-fine filler. As you build from the outside in - be certain that the filler sets down far enough to create "J" hooks into the webbed tape. It will take about three fills and sanding/feathering in between...
Finally - prepare that are with a final feather and roughing and shoot the primer to create a good surface for the base coat of finish color. Just a dab, working over where you have feathered...
As to stripping my bumper pad - yes, using 400 grit. You'll see the factory primer come through. It's pretty simple - and the PO's body shop used, what looks like - lacquer over enamel (and some Bondo from the INSIDE??) - so I wanted to get rid of that mess (and create my own mess )... So - I brought everything down and shot the water based primer - and LOST all the PO's bondo, and layers of paint. However - on the splitters - I only roughened up the surface with 80 grit and Scotchbrite, as those were similar paint types only (Thanks to Steve in NH - who sold me his old ones when I first got my 993..)
Anyway - hope this helps!!!
John
My pleasure Jim..! If I remember - I get a model number for you, OK??
JD - great questions! I wish I had taken pictures, but I think I filled those at about 1AM on day last week..
Here is a short step-by-step.....With the bumper cover off, simply grab the hose and push the washer out while twisting the hose a bit - it will pop right out. Next - remove the hoses, clips, tank - and under where the hose passes through to the washer - a rubber grommet. Remove that grommet, as you won't need it....
Next - roughen up the edges of the old washer hole, and underneath. You sort of have to use your finger to get up there, but, you'll need a bonding surface for the next step....
Next - no, I didn't weld in a new piece - as inside the fender in that area is a two-piece, so I didn't feel comfortable welding inside out. Rather, I took some SEM fiberglass tape (which is nothing more then plasterers tape - but - I like SEM products
) and from under the hole - bonded a small piece from the inside. I used SEM filler epoxy for that.Next - begin filling with a fine body filler. Since I hate the brand Bondo, I use a micro-fine filler. As you build from the outside in - be certain that the filler sets down far enough to create "J" hooks into the webbed tape. It will take about three fills and sanding/feathering in between...
Finally - prepare that are with a final feather and roughing and shoot the primer to create a good surface for the base coat of finish color. Just a dab, working over where you have feathered...
As to stripping my bumper pad - yes, using 400 grit. You'll see the factory primer come through. It's pretty simple - and the PO's body shop used, what looks like - lacquer over enamel (and some Bondo from the INSIDE??) - so I wanted to get rid of that mess (and create my own mess
)... So - I brought everything down and shot the water based primer - and LOST all the PO's bondo, and layers of paint. However - on the splitters - I only roughened up the surface with 80 grit and Scotchbrite, as those were similar paint types only (Thanks to Steve in NH - who sold me his old ones when I first got my 993..)Anyway - hope this helps!!!
John
07-25-2004, 09:12 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
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OK John, I almost think I have it. Thanks for all your help - did you mask off anything for the washer hole paintjob or does the feathering of the color coat and clear coat take care of itself? Do you clean the whole area with spirits prior to? I think I'm gonna fill in those fake joint lines on my bumper as well when I do this. I can't wait for my new spraygun and at worst case, I still take it to a pro. Thanks for all your great help. -
07-25-2004, 09:31 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GratefulJED
OK John, I almost think I have it. Thanks for all your help - did you mask off anything for the washer hole paintjob or does the feathering of the color coat and clear coat take care of itself? ...
My pleasure!!! Also about masking.....
Understand that while even an HVLP runs at lower pressure, the overspray can get everywhere..! So - yes - mask off BUT.......
On the edge on the shooting side - DO NOT stick it all the way down. Leave about a 1/2" gap "unstuck" on the tape, and the base coat will work it's way under from the overspray. When you shoot the clear - move the tape about 1/2" up (towards the rear of the car, if you are filling the washers). The clear will then "overspray" the base you just shot.
When feathering in another 24 hours (depending on the weather and where your shoot the paint, # of coats, UV lights or baking) - start with 1000 grit - then move up to 1500 and then 2000. Use absolutely NO PRESSURE on the paper and let it rest for 12+ hours - then use rubbing compound, then a glaze swirl remover. Let that rest for a week (here is where I am right now). Then finish with your favorite wax....
If this is confusing - sorry!!! Let me know if you have any questions, OK?? In short - you are using the "overspray" to "lay the ground coat to feather".. Make sense???
Best to you!!
John
07-26-2004, 05:01 AM
#37
Drifting
John,
That is awesome. I wish I had the cash for a paint setup right now... but someday I will and I will remove the windshield and headlight washers. You are the car renaissance man; I envy you. BTW thanks for the tips on "feathering" because I wondered how that works.
That is awesome. I wish I had the cash for a paint setup right now... but someday I will and I will remove the windshield and headlight washers. You are the car renaissance man; I envy you. BTW thanks for the tips on "feathering" because I wondered how that works.
