When I bought the car ten years ago, there was a distinct creaking noise coming from the LR fender well when releasing the clutch. Replacing the slave cylinder and greasing the cup in the release fork made the noise go away. Now, the creaking is back, the symptoms are the same as ten years ago – a loud creaking noise coming from the LR fender well when the clutch pedal is lifted. No noise when pushing the clutch down. The noise is exactly the same whether the engine is running or not.

I can take the slave out and grease the cup again, but wonder if I am missing something. Suggestions welcome. Also, it was very difficult working under the car on the floor to get the nuts to engage on the studs holding the slave. There is some spring action in the slave that makes it challenging to push it far enough into place so that first nut can engage. Would have been nice if the studs were ½ inch longer. Any suggestions on installation technique there are much appreciated.

David

 

Had the same issue of a creaking noise with a previous 993, a 98 C2S. Same issue of squeaking engine running or not. The squeak was coming from a ring that used as part of the attachment of the throwout bearing. The arrow is pointing to it in the pix. The second pix shows the ring that was worn and shiny (difficult to photograph). The shiny bits match the finger on the pressure plate. Removed the trans and clutch. Replaced the throwout bearing and clutch disk. Noise went away. Hope this helps.

JC 96 TT

 

Hey David
I've experienced the creak and it was lack of grease in the cup. Not sure why yours would have dried up (maybe it needs to be a scheduled action), maybe there is a different issue.
There are some 993 RL threads with tricks and tips to help with this install - see this thread to start: https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-993-...-job-aide.html
- It explains a trick to use tubes over the threaded studs, to give an extra inch or so as you wished for - I did this and it did help. I got the (very thin walled) tubes from a local hobby store.
I would google to find related threads - RL search is not the best. Include "MPL" in the search terms for a lot of detail on this clutch cylinder.

 

What I used on the slave cylinder was to get a long bar and run it from the outside of the car, through the frame and place the end of the bar on the slave cylinder. Had a friend push on the bar and used the leverage to hold the slave cylinder in place in order to get the nuts on the studs. Worked for me very well. YMMV

JC 96 TT

 

Hi all,

I've got the brass tubes and they do provide a nice alignment. Problem remains, how to push the damn slave cylinder far enough into position against its internal spring to get the nuts started. I've tried positioning a big stick but the fulcrum options are not great. Any other suggestions for how to get the slave cylinder far enough back to start the nuts, much appreciate. Right now we have an undriveable car.

David

 

After reading your reply, I may have not been clear with the solution I suggested. The bar I used was approximately 5' long and had to be operated by a friend. I guided the bar into place as he inserted it through the openings visible. Then, with him using the lever and me under the car, the slave cylinder installation was much easier. Hope this helps.

JC 96 TT

 

Hi All, thanks so much for your support. Brass tubes, big lever, taking out the heating tube, etc. Really helpful and its all back together now and a success! No more creaking clutch. Smooth and quiet. I did this nine years ago and it was a real PITA then, and it was now too, but with all the help, it was more fun. That is a lot of work to install one dab of grease! And working on your car is supposed to be fun, right? Every time I work on this car I am so impressed with the quality of the design, parts and assembly. It is really incredible how well its built. And it is incredible the quality of this community too. Happy driving.

 

Would love to see a video of "jac911's' method; if I recall correctly (installed MPL ~3-4 years ago) it was helpful to remove right rear (drivers side in US) wheel to get additional views/lighting but heavy lifting was done underneath with just jack stands. No fun but I would do it again for the reduced pedal effort. Keeping the shifter OEM, I like the long throws......

 

So strange, I had heard horror stories about this process, but when I did it, I found the whole process to be pretty easy, (I have an MPL slave as well).
One thing I did was put a piece metal bar over the slave piston with two holes in it that aligned with the holes in the slave - then used two nuts/bolts through the bar and through the slave body - tightening those effectively pushed the slave piston back as far as it would go. I don't think I opened the bleed valve while doing this, but maybe. Once on the transmission, it was pretty easy to get the nuts on the studs - I just cocked it to one side and did one nut a little bit then used the slave itself as a lever to **** it the other way and get the other nut on.

I mean, when your clutch pedal is out, there really should be very little pressure between the piston and the cup on the release fork - right? So how could it be that hard to get in place when the studs are like 10mm long unless the piston is sticking out beyond where it would be with the pedal out?

EDIT: memory is coming back to me now... you should open the bleed valve, push the piston in all the way, close bleed valve, put the bar in place and tighten the bolts. bleed the clutch (should be quick as there will be little chance of air getting in). Remove the bar, and install the clutch slave. The nice thing about this system is that you bleed the clutch with the slave just hanging down and easy to reach. the bar keeps the piston from flying out when you press the pedal as you bleed it