Wheel painting like a pro
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From: Southwest Idaho
Wheel painting like a pro
I just finished the first of my turbo twist repaint. There are several threads in the archive of how to fix curb rash however, the autostore paint wether it be duplicolor or whatever will succumb to brake cleaner, or harsh wheel cleaner, or a harsh degreaser like super clean. So I followed the rash fixing and it works real well but I found out that the paint is not up to factory standards. So I am repainting the twists using PPG paints and clear coat. This is a fairly easy DIY and the supplies will cost you less than one wheel refurb at a wheel shop. here is the finish result I am putting 2 pics in here one with flash and one without to get the clear coat (or at least try) This came out really nice, and if anyone is interested I can show the process for you to do at home. But just be aware the auto detailing airbrush I used is from Home depot, $30, and the paints from the paint supplier will be about $80 maybe. You need some kind of Porsche silver, a medium reducer, solvent to clean your brush and stuff, clear coat and hardener.
Of course you need a air compressor to power your brush. Be sure and get the best breather or resperator that home depot sells!!!! I can go into more detail if you would like. but I just used my helmet stuff to do the wheels. The wheel one the left is the wheel I did and the one on the right is the factory job. BTW I have time to do more helmets if anyone is interested.--here is one pic without flash:
Of course you need a air compressor to power your brush. Be sure and get the best breather or resperator that home depot sells!!!! I can go into more detail if you would like. but I just used my helmet stuff to do the wheels. The wheel one the left is the wheel I did and the one on the right is the factory job. BTW I have time to do more helmets if anyone is interested.--here is one pic without flash:
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Here is one with the flash-- These wheels are hollow spoke and still for sale. REMEMBER if you want to know the process let me know and I will post it with pics. again the one on the left was the one I did.
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OK Axl I will do another one tonite and take pics and post the details
Give me till tommorow morn, because I will finish up around 10PM
CDT which is Central Dallas Time
Give me till tommorow morn, because I will finish up around 10PM
CDT which is Central Dallas Time
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From: Southwest Idaho
Thanks Mike. I am just an engineer always thinking of "what can I do?"
It drives my wife crazy. now I am thinking I could do a complete respray of my hood and bumper myself!! I would have to build a better booth. but hey
But look at the other guys!! Our main man John D is got his car completely apart and putting in all kinds of mods! Ok OK so he hasnt started it yet. but the pictures are fantastic!!
It drives my wife crazy. now I am thinking I could do a complete respray of my hood and bumper myself!! I would have to build a better booth. but hey
But look at the other guys!! Our main man John D is got his car completely apart and putting in all kinds of mods! Ok OK so he hasnt started it yet. but the pictures are fantastic!!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Alberta, Canada
I was mulling over the options of getting custom paint spray bombs mixed versus buying a quart of a matched paint and spraying it myself. The PPG numbers might mean something to the body shop supply store although they could color match a wheel for me too.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Lake Zurich, IL
this thread is OLD..
but, Its still accurate. The main difference with pro supplies and rattle cans in my opinion is the 2 part clear coats available to the pros. The rattle can paints are lacquer or enamel and don't stand up as well as the epoxy or 2 part paints.
If you don't have spray guns and compressor, Wurth Silver is a good match and you can clear coat after it dries for a couple of days. Don't use wurth clear lacquer on wurth lacquer silver too soon or it will wrinkle!
An alternative, that I haven't tried with a wurth silver base coat, but worked well on PPG base coat is a 2 part clear from a spray can. 2 Part (2K), SprayMax Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat comes in a can and has a 24 hour shelf life after it has been activated. This will be as hard and durable as the factory paint.
If you want to try this approach paint your wheels with wurth silver from a spray can. Also paint a test panel with the same paint. Let dry for two days.. Then activate the 2 part clear in the can. Lightly spray the test panel with clear. Let dry 10 min or so. Follow up with heavier coat that will flow out for nice gloss. Let dry 1 hour. ANY reactions? if not, spray your wheels with the 2 part clear. First light then heavier coat. the light coat is to protect the lacquer from reacting with the heavier gloss coat.
Professional results with rattle cans!! Hope this works for you. You need to test this because my experience with the 2 part spray can clear was over urethane base coat so I had no bad reactions. I have not tested 2 part clear over lacquer but the directions on the can say it should work.
The Clear is available at auto body paint supply shops. Here's a link to read about it
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
but, Its still accurate. The main difference with pro supplies and rattle cans in my opinion is the 2 part clear coats available to the pros. The rattle can paints are lacquer or enamel and don't stand up as well as the epoxy or 2 part paints.
If you don't have spray guns and compressor, Wurth Silver is a good match and you can clear coat after it dries for a couple of days. Don't use wurth clear lacquer on wurth lacquer silver too soon or it will wrinkle!
An alternative, that I haven't tried with a wurth silver base coat, but worked well on PPG base coat is a 2 part clear from a spray can. 2 Part (2K), SprayMax Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat comes in a can and has a 24 hour shelf life after it has been activated. This will be as hard and durable as the factory paint.
If you want to try this approach paint your wheels with wurth silver from a spray can. Also paint a test panel with the same paint. Let dry for two days.. Then activate the 2 part clear in the can. Lightly spray the test panel with clear. Let dry 10 min or so. Follow up with heavier coat that will flow out for nice gloss. Let dry 1 hour. ANY reactions? if not, spray your wheels with the 2 part clear. First light then heavier coat. the light coat is to protect the lacquer from reacting with the heavier gloss coat.
Professional results with rattle cans!! Hope this works for you. You need to test this because my experience with the 2 part spray can clear was over urethane base coat so I had no bad reactions. I have not tested 2 part clear over lacquer but the directions on the can say it should work.
The Clear is available at auto body paint supply shops. Here's a link to read about it
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Long Island, NY
What he said!
BTW, those Wurth Silber spray rattle cans seem to have a 'shelf life' of zippo. The paint very quickly 'clogs' the esoteric cap (not like a normal rattle can cap) leaving you with a half-rattle-can and a clogged 'delivery system'. As y'all know, the LAST thing u need is a 'spitting' spray can -- so caveat emptor!
Gerry
BTW, those Wurth Silber spray rattle cans seem to have a 'shelf life' of zippo. The paint very quickly 'clogs' the esoteric cap (not like a normal rattle can cap) leaving you with a half-rattle-can and a clogged 'delivery system'. As y'all know, the LAST thing u need is a 'spitting' spray can -- so caveat emptor!
Gerry
