Buying 993 - Parked for 15 years
#32
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There's a million ways this could go wrong, but IMO under 25k it's a no-brainer. I wouldn't go higher without an inspection. But under 25k, if you get into it and it's crazy, you're handy enough to part it. and there's enough money in it to be worthwhile.
The transaxle is an easy 7500, same for the engine if it turns. Probably more if you break it down into heads and long block. Electronics (DME computer, radio, alarm module), exhaust (manifolds, mufflers, tips), wheels, brakes, suspension, bolt-on body parts (hood, engine cover, front fenders, doors, f&r bumpers), gauges, seats/interior if not too manky, headlights, glass, radiators... Then the shell has some value as the basis for a race car builder.
Not the Porsche experience you want, but not ruinous if you're wrong.
The transaxle is an easy 7500, same for the engine if it turns. Probably more if you break it down into heads and long block. Electronics (DME computer, radio, alarm module), exhaust (manifolds, mufflers, tips), wheels, brakes, suspension, bolt-on body parts (hood, engine cover, front fenders, doors, f&r bumpers), gauges, seats/interior if not too manky, headlights, glass, radiators... Then the shell has some value as the basis for a race car builder.
Not the Porsche experience you want, but not ruinous if you're wrong.
#33
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There's a million ways this could go wrong, but IMO under 25k it's a no-brainer. I wouldn't go higher without an inspection. But under 25k, if you get into it and it's crazy, you're handy enough to part it. and there's enough money in it to be worthwhile.
The transaxle is an easy 7500, same for the engine if it turns. Probably more if you break it down into heads and long block. Electronics (DME computer, radio, alarm module), exhaust (manifolds, mufflers, tips), wheels, brakes, suspension, bolt-on body parts (hood, engine cover, front fenders, doors, f&r bumpers), gauges, seats/interior if not too manky, headlights, glass, radiators... Then the shell has some value as the basis for a race car builder.
Not the Porsche experience you want, but not ruinous if you're wrong.
The transaxle is an easy 7500, same for the engine if it turns. Probably more if you break it down into heads and long block. Electronics (DME computer, radio, alarm module), exhaust (manifolds, mufflers, tips), wheels, brakes, suspension, bolt-on body parts (hood, engine cover, front fenders, doors, f&r bumpers), gauges, seats/interior if not too manky, headlights, glass, radiators... Then the shell has some value as the basis for a race car builder.
Not the Porsche experience you want, but not ruinous if you're wrong.
#34
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To the OP; This car could be for you. You like working on cars and have experience doing so. You have full experience reviving your 996. The 993 is a way better car for sure, it is the classic. Since you have rebuilt mechanicals on GM stuff and have messed with you 996, you are qualified to do everything on the 993. It is much simpler then the water cooled 996.
Everyone wants to squawk about windshield rust and tries to relate it to a "rusty car". This is all BS. Rust around the windshield and rear window corners is a sign that the car is a real 993 and not a fake clone. You can assume that 99% of 993's have rust, had rust or will show rust someday. This includes garage queens and all the rest. It is not a sign of a rusty car. For a rusty car, you start looking at underneath the car and suspension. Porsche started dip galvanizing the bodies in 1976. "Dplus" above says it very well about his car. Mine is the same, one owner southern Cal car with zero rust underneath including exhaust bolts and brake rotor dust shields (which will be the first thing to go in wet weather). However I have just finished doing rust repair on windshield as it actually went through. It is just something these cars have do to a design flaw. It just needs fixing as all these cars have it. It just takes years to show.
Also as to the 15 year "sitting", that is pretty much what garage queens do except that they get the paint polished to point of breaking through the clearcoat. The engine problem will turn out to be minor with a probability of 90 %. Those that do not do their own work will be the ones chiming in about all kinds of doomsday scenarios. You are not going to take this car to a shop and spend zillions of dollars. You are going to do it yourself and maybe spend a couple of thousand dollars. The drive train is bulletproof and too many of these cars are in the 150,000 mile plus range and actually do not need anything. The valve guides may be worn and the seals shot but they are running fine
If you can buy the car for the 25K as mentioned you are good to go. Try to find out more but since you know the owner, you have a good idea of how the history went to get it in this condition.
Report back.
Everyone wants to squawk about windshield rust and tries to relate it to a "rusty car". This is all BS. Rust around the windshield and rear window corners is a sign that the car is a real 993 and not a fake clone. You can assume that 99% of 993's have rust, had rust or will show rust someday. This includes garage queens and all the rest. It is not a sign of a rusty car. For a rusty car, you start looking at underneath the car and suspension. Porsche started dip galvanizing the bodies in 1976. "Dplus" above says it very well about his car. Mine is the same, one owner southern Cal car with zero rust underneath including exhaust bolts and brake rotor dust shields (which will be the first thing to go in wet weather). However I have just finished doing rust repair on windshield as it actually went through. It is just something these cars have do to a design flaw. It just needs fixing as all these cars have it. It just takes years to show.
Also as to the 15 year "sitting", that is pretty much what garage queens do except that they get the paint polished to point of breaking through the clearcoat. The engine problem will turn out to be minor with a probability of 90 %. Those that do not do their own work will be the ones chiming in about all kinds of doomsday scenarios. You are not going to take this car to a shop and spend zillions of dollars. You are going to do it yourself and maybe spend a couple of thousand dollars. The drive train is bulletproof and too many of these cars are in the 150,000 mile plus range and actually do not need anything. The valve guides may be worn and the seals shot but they are running fine
If you can buy the car for the 25K as mentioned you are good to go. Try to find out more but since you know the owner, you have a good idea of how the history went to get it in this condition.
Report back.
The following 7 users liked this post by Floyd540:
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#35
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To the OP; This car could be for you. You like working on cars and have experience doing so. You have full experience reviving your 996. The 993 is a way better car for sure, it is the classic. Since you have rebuilt mechanicals on GM stuff and have messed with you 996, you are qualified to do everything on the 993. It is much simpler then the water cooled 996.
Everyone wants to squawk about windshield rust and tries to relate it to a "rusty car". This is all BS. Rust around the windshield and rear window corners is a sign that the car is a real 993 and not a fake clone. You can assume that 99% of 993's have rust, had rust or will show rust someday. This includes garage queens and all the rest. It is not a sign of a rusty car. For a rusty car, you start looking at underneath the car and suspension. Porsche started dip galvanizing the bodies in 1976. "Dplus" above says it very well about his car. Mine is the same, one owner southern Cal car with zero rust underneath including exhaust bolts and brake rotor dust shields (which will be the first thing to go in wet weather). However I have just finished doing rust repair on windshield as it actually went through. It is just something these cars have do to a design flaw. It just needs fixing as all these cars have it. It just takes years to show.
Also as to the 15 year "sitting", that is pretty much what garage queens do except that they get the paint polished to point of breaking through the clearcoat. The engine problem will turn out to be minor with a probability of 90 %. Those that do not do their own work will be the ones chiming in about all kinds of doomsday scenarios. You are not going to take this car to a shop and spend zillions of dollars. You are going to do it yourself and maybe spend a couple of thousand dollars. The drive train is bulletproof and too many of these cars are in the 150,000 mile plus range and actually do not need anything. The valve guides may be worn and the seals shot but they are running fine
If you can buy the car for the 25K as mentioned you are good to go. Try to find out more but since you know the owner, you have a good idea of how the history went to get it in this condition.
Report back.
Everyone wants to squawk about windshield rust and tries to relate it to a "rusty car". This is all BS. Rust around the windshield and rear window corners is a sign that the car is a real 993 and not a fake clone. You can assume that 99% of 993's have rust, had rust or will show rust someday. This includes garage queens and all the rest. It is not a sign of a rusty car. For a rusty car, you start looking at underneath the car and suspension. Porsche started dip galvanizing the bodies in 1976. "Dplus" above says it very well about his car. Mine is the same, one owner southern Cal car with zero rust underneath including exhaust bolts and brake rotor dust shields (which will be the first thing to go in wet weather). However I have just finished doing rust repair on windshield as it actually went through. It is just something these cars have do to a design flaw. It just needs fixing as all these cars have it. It just takes years to show.
Also as to the 15 year "sitting", that is pretty much what garage queens do except that they get the paint polished to point of breaking through the clearcoat. The engine problem will turn out to be minor with a probability of 90 %. Those that do not do their own work will be the ones chiming in about all kinds of doomsday scenarios. You are not going to take this car to a shop and spend zillions of dollars. You are going to do it yourself and maybe spend a couple of thousand dollars. The drive train is bulletproof and too many of these cars are in the 150,000 mile plus range and actually do not need anything. The valve guides may be worn and the seals shot but they are running fine
If you can buy the car for the 25K as mentioned you are good to go. Try to find out more but since you know the owner, you have a good idea of how the history went to get it in this condition.
Report back.
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Floyd540 (07-09-2024)
#36
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Thank you, guys; these are all very good comments. I have been traveling, so I have not been able to talk to the owners. I have been giving them time to make a decision, but I think after I get back, I am going to put in a bit of pressure to move this forward.
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ed devinney (07-11-2024)
#37
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A common issue with the 993 is the DME relay fails - and the car stops running... It's a simple relay, maybe $80 fix.
Now, your issue is a car that has sat for a decade and a half. The fuel is gel. Try to start the car, now that gel is in your engine and your have clogged injectors, etc.
I'd be concerned about S FL water/humidity destroying the car. You can't even check the oil without starting the car. I would offer to buy it contingent on draining the oil and inspecting it (replace the oil in the amount you take out).
Common rust spot is bottom corners of the windshield. Pull the rubber back a little and it is self evident.
Good luck.
/
Now, your issue is a car that has sat for a decade and a half. The fuel is gel. Try to start the car, now that gel is in your engine and your have clogged injectors, etc.
I'd be concerned about S FL water/humidity destroying the car. You can't even check the oil without starting the car. I would offer to buy it contingent on draining the oil and inspecting it (replace the oil in the amount you take out).
Common rust spot is bottom corners of the windshield. Pull the rubber back a little and it is self evident.
Good luck.
/
#38
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I have one of those and still keep a spare old-school relay in the glove box :-)
#41
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HEY MAN MAN, can't wait to hear and see progress and the outcome ...a good one to get into, nothing but positives here...., need a partner?
#44
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Bought recently a similar 993 with pretty opposite history, 200K+ km, driven hard, little service over the last 40K km. Everything you can see washed, everything you dont never saw any maintenance for years. Rust on the windshield, and suspension and engine etc up for a complete rebuild.
Paid a lot, lot more than $25K for it, as there is normally nothing cheap anymore on the market, even if nearly in wreck conditions. So imho get it before somebody else steels it.
Rebuilding it for a daily driver was a lot of fun, not totally finished but works already well.
If you're able to do most of the work by yourself the impact on the valet is not 'that' big. And when you're finished, most possible the value is at least similar to you spending's.
But you had already a lot of fun with it anyway. No better way to know about your car in detail.
Hope you got it finally
Paid a lot, lot more than $25K for it, as there is normally nothing cheap anymore on the market, even if nearly in wreck conditions. So imho get it before somebody else steels it.
Rebuilding it for a daily driver was a lot of fun, not totally finished but works already well.
If you're able to do most of the work by yourself the impact on the valet is not 'that' big. And when you're finished, most possible the value is at least similar to you spending's.
But you had already a lot of fun with it anyway. No better way to know about your car in detail.
Hope you got it finally
Last edited by Holger3.2; 07-14-2024 at 08:07 AM.
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Floyd540 (07-14-2024)