Rough Idle
10-31-2001 | 08:15 PM
#1
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From: Fullerton, California
Rough Idle
If my AC is off, the idle is a bit rough. When the AC compressor cycles on, the idle goes up perhaps 50 rpm and the idle smooths right out.
The car is also prone to stalling, especially in reverse. I know that the clutch is way at the top, which I think means it is on its last legs, but I have been driving stick shift cars for many years, and it is kind of frustrating.
Are these two things related? I am getting ugly thoughts about flywheel problems, but perhaps I am overly worried. The car runs fantastic in all other respects.
TIA, guys.
The car is also prone to stalling, especially in reverse. I know that the clutch is way at the top, which I think means it is on its last legs, but I have been driving stick shift cars for many years, and it is kind of frustrating.
Are these two things related? I am getting ugly thoughts about flywheel problems, but perhaps I am overly worried. The car runs fantastic in all other respects.
TIA, guys.
11-01-2001 | 05:18 AM
#3
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 631
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From: Cranleigh,England
There is a link between the A/C controller and the ECU shown on the wiring diagrams.
I'm not entirely sure what the link does but I would guess it could cause an increase in revs if required.
I suppose it could also be used for other purposes, like making sure the A/C pump isn't enabled when trying to start the car.
I'm not entirely sure what the link does but I would guess it could cause an increase in revs if required.
I suppose it could also be used for other purposes, like making sure the A/C pump isn't enabled when trying to start the car.
11-02-2001 | 11:57 PM
#4
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 216
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From: Long Island, NY
I seem to have the exact same problem on my 96 C4 Cab. I thought maybe it was time for a tune-up?
Tom, i did not see instructions on cleaning the idle stabalizer valve on Robin's site.
Would like to check this out if i could, to try to solve the problem. Any guidance?
I also just noticed when my car is cold and at idle, the oil pressure guage on the dash seems to "jump" around a bit between the 2 and the 3 mark. Not consistantly, but does happen on and off when car is cold. Is this normal?
Tom, i did not see instructions on cleaning the idle stabalizer valve on Robin's site.
Would like to check this out if i could, to try to solve the problem. Any guidance?
I also just noticed when my car is cold and at idle, the oil pressure guage on the dash seems to "jump" around a bit between the 2 and the 3 mark. Not consistantly, but does happen on and off when car is cold. Is this normal?
11-05-2001 | 01:21 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 967
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My mistake and humble apologies. I thought for sure there was a DIY. I guess the info is in the archives someplace, perhaps on the old board, but I did a quick search and didn’t find anything. I searched on Idle Stabilizer.
In any case, the idle stabilizer is the shiny silver cylinder near the throttle body. There are some pictures on Robin’s site that show it. On a ’95, you can see it here:
http://p-car.com/diy/conefilter/
Look in the second picture down, in the left half. The stabilizer is the horizontal silver piece just below the body work, to the left of the wrench head. The throttle body is just to the left and up a bit from the guy’s index finger.
Here’s a picture from a ’96 (with varioram):
http://p-car.com/photos.htm
Look at the first picture of the engine. The stabilizer is the horizontal silver piece at the very top, almost hidden under the body work. It’s above the intake plenum.
Now that we know where it is, what next? Take it off the car by undoing a couple of hose clamps. Clean it out with carburetor cleaner. It will be full of black gunk. The inner portion needs to spin freely. Spin it with your hands until it’s free. If it can’t be freed, I understand that replacement stabilizers are pretty cheap. Once it spins freely, replace. All Done!
In any case, the idle stabilizer is the shiny silver cylinder near the throttle body. There are some pictures on Robin’s site that show it. On a ’95, you can see it here:
http://p-car.com/diy/conefilter/
Look in the second picture down, in the left half. The stabilizer is the horizontal silver piece just below the body work, to the left of the wrench head. The throttle body is just to the left and up a bit from the guy’s index finger.
Here’s a picture from a ’96 (with varioram):
http://p-car.com/photos.htm
Look at the first picture of the engine. The stabilizer is the horizontal silver piece at the very top, almost hidden under the body work. It’s above the intake plenum.
Now that we know where it is, what next? Take it off the car by undoing a couple of hose clamps. Clean it out with carburetor cleaner. It will be full of black gunk. The inner portion needs to spin freely. Spin it with your hands until it’s free. If it can’t be freed, I understand that replacement stabilizers are pretty cheap. Once it spins freely, replace. All Done!
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11-10-2002 | 12:45 PM
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From: Charleston, SC
Pete,
My car did the same thing when the A/C compressor kicked on; as to the rpm increase. The car had original plugs that were installed at the factory which were the 2 prong Beru 14 FR 6 LDU.
I changed them to the 3 prong Bosch FR 5 DTC and the idle is now smooth without the A/C compressor running.
My owner's manual shows the plug that the factory put in as correct but it also shows that same plug for the turbo. The Bosch plugs that I replaced mine with are also shown as correct. I think the plug used in the turbo has a hotter heat range. I'm not sure. I also noted the insulator color on the plugs I took out to be whiter than I am used to seeing, usually more tan. I think the factory installed plugs were a little to hot and they should only be used in the turbo. Of course I don't mean to imply I know more than the factory, but that I merely have my own opinion.
My car did the same thing when the A/C compressor kicked on; as to the rpm increase. The car had original plugs that were installed at the factory which were the 2 prong Beru 14 FR 6 LDU.
I changed them to the 3 prong Bosch FR 5 DTC and the idle is now smooth without the A/C compressor running.
My owner's manual shows the plug that the factory put in as correct but it also shows that same plug for the turbo. The Bosch plugs that I replaced mine with are also shown as correct. I think the plug used in the turbo has a hotter heat range. I'm not sure. I also noted the insulator color on the plugs I took out to be whiter than I am used to seeing, usually more tan. I think the factory installed plugs were a little to hot and they should only be used in the turbo. Of course I don't mean to imply I know more than the factory, but that I merely have my own opinion.
