Here's the deal on DIY Fire Bottle and Sub-belt Mount Problems (long)
07-23-2002, 03:56 PM
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Here's the deal on DIY Fire Bottle and Sub-belt Mount Problems (long)
For anyone planning to install a Brey Krause fire extinguisher mount and dual-submarine belt mounts to the existing seat rail bolts (stock seats), I thought I'd offer my findings. I spoke with a local racing shop and got lots of feedback here and from my local PCA club. Also, check out E.J.'s DIY page. Here's my solution:
1) Do not install anything to the front seat rail bolts!
2) You may want to install a washer under the rail at any bolt that doesn't have something mounted to it in order to create anywhere from 1/16" to 1/8" lift. This accommodates the thickness of the belt mounts and allows the seat rail to remain roughly level.
3) Replace the existing bolts with a longer version - 6mm cap-head bolts meeting SAE standards. I think the size I got is 8x50, but basically, they just need to be about 1/4" longer. There's plenty of room for bolt length in the hole, so err on the side of longer as you can always add another washer under the head. I found mine at a race prep and repair shop but an industrial bolt supply or hardware store may have them as well (which is where the shop would get them). I paid $.45/ea. Maybe not absolutely necessary, but you'll be losing as much as 1/4" of threads in the mount if you don't. Use a hex-head drive adapter not an allen wrench.
4) Install the sub-belt mounts on the forwardmost rear seat rail bolts, angled in at about a 45 degree angle. Install the mounts with the straps on because its a PITA, though not impossible, to thread the straps later. The staps should criss-cross from left to right and vise-versa (like an "X") so they pull correctly. If not, they'll sort of pull your legs apart - kinda like driving with a Fosters between your legs.
5) On the passenger side, make sure you have fully tightened the front seat rail bolts (and replaced and added washers). Then, install the BK bottle mount to the rearward seat rail bolts. It's easier to reach at this mounting point and there's no other hardware on the seat rail bolts. REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT BOLTS FIRST, because the seat will no longer go back far enough to expose the front seat rail bolts. And no, at least on my car, the optional BK extension hardware for the bottle mount will not buy you anymore seat movement because the top portion of the seat rail will hit the outside of the BK mounting brackets (little square ends).
6) Install the fire bottle bracket (comes w/ the bottle) to the BK mount. You may have to drill some new holes in the bottle bracket and/or the BK mount. No big deal.
Post Mortem - my objective was to avoid drilling any new holes, however, in retrospect, I think a 5-pt configuration with a floor-mounted eye would have been easier and probably no big deal. It would be easier to take the sub-belts out. I also think the loss of seat travel will bug people who have lots of passengers - but probably not scenarios involving driving instructors.
Jeff
1) Do not install anything to the front seat rail bolts!
2) You may want to install a washer under the rail at any bolt that doesn't have something mounted to it in order to create anywhere from 1/16" to 1/8" lift. This accommodates the thickness of the belt mounts and allows the seat rail to remain roughly level.
3) Replace the existing bolts with a longer version - 6mm cap-head bolts meeting SAE standards. I think the size I got is 8x50, but basically, they just need to be about 1/4" longer. There's plenty of room for bolt length in the hole, so err on the side of longer as you can always add another washer under the head. I found mine at a race prep and repair shop but an industrial bolt supply or hardware store may have them as well (which is where the shop would get them). I paid $.45/ea. Maybe not absolutely necessary, but you'll be losing as much as 1/4" of threads in the mount if you don't. Use a hex-head drive adapter not an allen wrench.
4) Install the sub-belt mounts on the forwardmost rear seat rail bolts, angled in at about a 45 degree angle. Install the mounts with the straps on because its a PITA, though not impossible, to thread the straps later. The staps should criss-cross from left to right and vise-versa (like an "X") so they pull correctly. If not, they'll sort of pull your legs apart - kinda like driving with a Fosters between your legs.
5) On the passenger side, make sure you have fully tightened the front seat rail bolts (and replaced and added washers). Then, install the BK bottle mount to the rearward seat rail bolts. It's easier to reach at this mounting point and there's no other hardware on the seat rail bolts. REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT BOLTS FIRST, because the seat will no longer go back far enough to expose the front seat rail bolts. And no, at least on my car, the optional BK extension hardware for the bottle mount will not buy you anymore seat movement because the top portion of the seat rail will hit the outside of the BK mounting brackets (little square ends).
6) Install the fire bottle bracket (comes w/ the bottle) to the BK mount. You may have to drill some new holes in the bottle bracket and/or the BK mount. No big deal.
Post Mortem - my objective was to avoid drilling any new holes, however, in retrospect, I think a 5-pt configuration with a floor-mounted eye would have been easier and probably no big deal. It would be easier to take the sub-belts out. I also think the loss of seat travel will bug people who have lots of passengers - but probably not scenarios involving driving instructors.
Jeff
