jz993

Can anyone link me to a DIY on power steering pump replacement for the 993? I checked the DIY for v-belts, but it doesn't mention the ps pump. TIA

John D.

Hey Jeff...

I'm not certain if you just need a pic of the belt - or are you looking for how to remove it? Anyway - here is a pic of the PS toothed-belt (cover off)....

Jeff 993TT

Hey John.. How do you remove the belt?? I tried to remove 3 allen screws at the top, but it was just too hard with the engine in the car. Although I only had access to a 3/8" rachet. A 1/4 rachet with the appropriate head would have probably worked ok..

jz993

John-
Thanks, now I know that it doesn't use a v-belt. I've been told my pump is leaking.
Was that pic taken with the engine out of the car?
Is changing the pump something that can be done by an amateur?
Its looking like I shouldn't waste my $ on a used pump, since it appears to be a bitch to R&R.
Thanks

Timothy Stewart

My pump was just replaced Friday.

It is very awkward getting to this. It's all
the way forward on the passenger side and
you have to work from the top and the bottom.

As an example, it took me about 2.5 hours to
get in and just cut / remove the belt so I could move
the car.

The only reservation I would have for DIY is that
the bottom gear bolt has a high torque value
(120Nm) and a special tool is called out to hold the pulley
in place when turning the bolt.

Note that the top gear is pressed on in addition
to the three bolts, plus thread locking compound is
also called out. The bottom gear was removed to
place the belt.

Note cut-out at the bottom of the support housing.
If the pump itself is leaking from behind the seal
of the top gear, fluid will drip down and gather here.

The picture was taken with the engine out of the car.

tim

jz993

Tim-
Thanks, at least now I know where to look, and I won't be replacing one used pump with another!

John D.

Hi Jeff,

Tim is correct - the picture was taken with the engine out of the car. Also - if you want to replace the pump - remove the 4 bolts from the mounts (two top cover bolts - and 2 belows those INSIDE the cover), and the stand-off (2 into the cam carrier). You shouldn't have to remove the cam pulley, though?

When you remove the pump from the mount (it comes out pulling to the rear of the car), the teeth will withdraw from the notched belt on the pump, then slide the old belt off between the cam pulley and the housing. Next - install a new belt around the cam pulley, and re-insert the pump - engaging the new belt in the pump pully...

Without withdrawing the pump - the belt is too wide to remove.....

And yep - with the engine in the car - I'd believe Tim's 2.5 hours to get to this sucker......

John

STLPCA

Perhaps this shot may be heldful.

jz993

John-
Thanks, yes, by your reasoning, the cam pulley should not have to be removed. Even so, the only way I could handle this job is if I had what is in Dan's pic sitting in front of me.
Thanks for the pic, Dan.
Yes, this Rennlist is a good place. I shall dwell here.

RoDeO_993

Hi guys,

my power stearing pump started to knock, at begning it was only on full lock, and now its all the time i touch the stearing wheel.

i had a small inspection camera to look inside the engines. and i fount out that the belt had no teeth any more,.

now is the question any tips or someting how to change it with engine in?

Roberts

OverBoosted28

If you can get to all of the cover bolts, have enough room to remove cover, I believe it can be done with engine still in. Gonna be a pain, but it should be possible. I have a special vocabulary for jobs like this.

mpruden

I think it will be pretty darn tough unless you're a very experienced mechanic. It was a humbling attempt for me, that's for sure. I was not successful.

If I were to attempt it again, I would:

1) Remove more stuff. Air cleaner box is obvious on top, but would go ahead and remove as much as you can from under the car too. Wheel, maybe engine tin bits, heater pipes, etc. Anything to make it easier to get to the bolts and to remove the cover.

2) Use a high-quality hex socket on the pulley. They are locked in there really well, and you'll be working from near impossible positions to get at them.

3) Maybe use some long bolts to "push" the top pulley off the pump (not sure if this is even possible, but the pulley was pretty much fused to my pump)

The procedure is very straight forward in theory. Remove cover, cut old belt, remove top pulley, install new belt on pulley, bolt it back up.

RoDeO_993

can i just cut the belt throu the inspection window and get it out? or you think its not possible?

so i can keep on driving until i get the betl and do more jobs at one time like oil and filters/

?

mpruden

I think you could. Worst case you can take the cover off. The pully was the harder part for me.

OverBoosted28

Wouldn't the lower sprocket be easier to pull/get to? I believe the top is pressed as opposed to just torqued on like the bottom.
Actually, looking at it again, you may not have to pull either pulley. Wrap bottom and slide onto top????
Here, found this