Heel and toe in the 993 - tips and chips?
#1
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Heel and toe in the 993 - tips and chips?
Having just bought a '97 C2S, and having an '87 Carrera by its side, I'm having trouble with heel and toe downshifting. In the '87, when I'm on the brakes, the gas pedal is at the perfect distance from the floorboard (i.e., parallel to the depressed brake pedal) to partially slip my foot over and blip the throttle for the downshift - smooth as can be. In the C2S, the gas pedal is much closer to the floorboard when my foot is on the brake. I can still blip the throttle, but it's awkward.
More problematic is the throttle response. In the '87, when you stab the throttle, the revs climb quickly, then fall off quickly - a good thing, nice and predictable. With the C2S, the revs climb quickly, which is fine, but they fall off slowly, which makes the timing of the clutch release harder. My mechanic/guru tells me that the gradual fall off of revs is purposely done for emissions reasons, and it's controlled by a chip. He says I may be able to get a chip that will let the engine decelerate naturally (i.e., more rapidly).
Anyone have the same problems? Is this chip thing for real? Can the pedals be moved to fix the out-of-register situation?
Will
More problematic is the throttle response. In the '87, when you stab the throttle, the revs climb quickly, then fall off quickly - a good thing, nice and predictable. With the C2S, the revs climb quickly, which is fine, but they fall off slowly, which makes the timing of the clutch release harder. My mechanic/guru tells me that the gradual fall off of revs is purposely done for emissions reasons, and it's controlled by a chip. He says I may be able to get a chip that will let the engine decelerate naturally (i.e., more rapidly).
Anyone have the same problems? Is this chip thing for real? Can the pedals be moved to fix the out-of-register situation?
Will
#2
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Will,
I had the same feeling on the gas pedal height ...too low for good heel-toe. I found that I could add a bit more height by getting behind the pedal and adjusting the link out as far as I could go (found this out when I was checking for binding at the clutch pedal). For me, at least, this gave me just enough height to help. Besides, I didn't want to shell out $$$ for a fancy new pedal. Hope this works for you!
Ed
I had the same feeling on the gas pedal height ...too low for good heel-toe. I found that I could add a bit more height by getting behind the pedal and adjusting the link out as far as I could go (found this out when I was checking for binding at the clutch pedal). For me, at least, this gave me just enough height to help. Besides, I didn't want to shell out $$$ for a fancy new pedal. Hope this works for you!
Ed
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I agree the 993 pedal setup is not the easiest to heel and toe, but stick with it, it can be done. The balance of revs just comes with practice.
I tend to brake using my toe, but on the right hand bottom corner of the brake pedal leaving maximum distance and leverage when I roll my heel over the throttle.
If I use the whole brake pedal I can't quite reach (small feet !!!).
Hope this helps, and happy 993'ing
Kindest Regards
Stuart
I tend to brake using my toe, but on the right hand bottom corner of the brake pedal leaving maximum distance and leverage when I roll my heel over the throttle.
If I use the whole brake pedal I can't quite reach (small feet !!!).
Hope this helps, and happy 993'ing
Kindest Regards
Stuart
#4
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What you need is the Wings engineering heel and toe pedal, many people have already installed this pedal over their gas pedal and it really makes heel and toe effortless.
Their phone number is 203-438-222 fax 203-431-8792
Below is a picture of the pedal installed in the car.
As for the "RPM hanging" issue you described, I don't think the DME is trying to hang the RPM up in the 993 car to burn off unburn gas, but instead I think the purpose is to prevent the rpm from falling too quickly and stalling the engine. As the 993s have a fairly light weight flywheel from the factory. The "RPM hanging" symptom is normally associated with drive by wire gas pedal system, I.E. Boxsters and 996s. If you think the 993 RPM move slowly you should try a new BMW 3 series. It is terrible!
Their phone number is 203-438-222 fax 203-431-8792
Below is a picture of the pedal installed in the car.
As for the "RPM hanging" issue you described, I don't think the DME is trying to hang the RPM up in the 993 car to burn off unburn gas, but instead I think the purpose is to prevent the rpm from falling too quickly and stalling the engine. As the 993s have a fairly light weight flywheel from the factory. The "RPM hanging" symptom is normally associated with drive by wire gas pedal system, I.E. Boxsters and 996s. If you think the 993 RPM move slowly you should try a new BMW 3 series. It is terrible!
#5
Just had to respond to this one.
I've never been able to h&t a 993, but then I have trouble with any of the power brake cars when coming from my 914-6. Just not enough motor control in my right leg I guess.
I also really agree with the observation of the M3 throttle hanging open. My previous 98 M3 (and my current driver, an Audi RS4) was terrible, with the phenomenon most noticable when trying to do a rapid upsift from 1st to second when accelerating hard. On these 2 cars at least, I'm pretty sure it's done to reduce unburned HC as the throttle snaps shut and the fuel delivery lingers.
THe main reason for this post, though, is to share that my 01 996 (e-throttle) is the only late model car I've driven that does not exhibit this. I can't say the response is as crisp as the 6, but it's quite good and one can blip the throttle with some alacrity. I've been told that the e-throttle is able to shut the fuel off more quickly, as it senses the pedal movement rather than the actual throttle-plate movement (which certainly has a time delay from cable play, friction, etc.). This response, coupled with pedal positions and force requirements that fit my feet so well were some of the bigger factors that pushed me toward the 996. I can put the ball of my foot squarely on the brake and hit the gas with either my heel or the side of foot (yes, I have wide feet).
I realize that this is not the 996 board, but I'm still more emotionally involved with the air cooled cars and find myself perusing this board more. I've also noticed quite a bit of 993 vs 996 on these boards, and I really hope this is not starting anything. It's just that the ability to h&t and the throttle-hanging thing are 2 of my greatest satisfier/dissatisfiers when it comes to driving enjoyment.
Regards to all
Lee
I've never been able to h&t a 993, but then I have trouble with any of the power brake cars when coming from my 914-6. Just not enough motor control in my right leg I guess.
I also really agree with the observation of the M3 throttle hanging open. My previous 98 M3 (and my current driver, an Audi RS4) was terrible, with the phenomenon most noticable when trying to do a rapid upsift from 1st to second when accelerating hard. On these 2 cars at least, I'm pretty sure it's done to reduce unburned HC as the throttle snaps shut and the fuel delivery lingers.
THe main reason for this post, though, is to share that my 01 996 (e-throttle) is the only late model car I've driven that does not exhibit this. I can't say the response is as crisp as the 6, but it's quite good and one can blip the throttle with some alacrity. I've been told that the e-throttle is able to shut the fuel off more quickly, as it senses the pedal movement rather than the actual throttle-plate movement (which certainly has a time delay from cable play, friction, etc.). This response, coupled with pedal positions and force requirements that fit my feet so well were some of the bigger factors that pushed me toward the 996. I can put the ball of my foot squarely on the brake and hit the gas with either my heel or the side of foot (yes, I have wide feet).
I realize that this is not the 996 board, but I'm still more emotionally involved with the air cooled cars and find myself perusing this board more. I've also noticed quite a bit of 993 vs 996 on these boards, and I really hope this is not starting anything. It's just that the ability to h&t and the throttle-hanging thing are 2 of my greatest satisfier/dissatisfiers when it comes to driving enjoyment.
Regards to all
Lee
#6
As an experiment, I cut a pedal overlay out of 3/8 inch plywood and fastened it to the gas pedal. It was a low cost (made out of scrap) test to see if raising the pedal would help. I also shaped it like the racing pedals. The total cost was 50 cents for a couple of carriage bolts and about an hour of time. It works great.
#7
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Will, if you're interested in giving the Wings pedal a try, I've got one I'm not using. Would be interested in selling it on to someone else.
It's the wide version - say, 65% of new price? It's like-new condition.
RNH
EDIT: I've since sold this pedal. RNH 5/22/02
It's the wide version - say, 65% of new price? It's like-new condition.
RNH
EDIT: I've since sold this pedal. RNH 5/22/02
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#8
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Originally posted by Rex:
<STRONG>As an experiment, I cut a pedal overlay out of 3/8 inch plywood and fastened it to the gas pedal........ </STRONG>
<STRONG>As an experiment, I cut a pedal overlay out of 3/8 inch plywood and fastened it to the gas pedal........ </STRONG>
#9
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You folks are attacking it all wrong.
Buy the shop manual, cheapskates (page 46-11) - complete description in there on adjusting the brake pedal height. Works great!
Haven't noticed the problem described on engine speed dropoff - largely because the 993 is so much better than my Audi A4 (which drops engine speed worse than a Diesel). I haven't noticed a big difference between 993 and my old '84 Carrera. (note - I adjusted the brake pedal height on this car, too, for better heel-&-toe).
Buy the shop manual, cheapskates (page 46-11) - complete description in there on adjusting the brake pedal height. Works great!
Haven't noticed the problem described on engine speed dropoff - largely because the 993 is so much better than my Audi A4 (which drops engine speed worse than a Diesel). I haven't noticed a big difference between 993 and my old '84 Carrera. (note - I adjusted the brake pedal height on this car, too, for better heel-&-toe).
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Ray, I have tried adjusting the brake pedal down further but it still sits high compared to the gas pedal.
I was concerned about adjusting the brake pedal too far down -- because in case of severe brake fade or other some other problem, I didn't think there would be enough pedal travel left to provide a safety margin.
Does this make sense?
I was concerned about adjusting the brake pedal too far down -- because in case of severe brake fade or other some other problem, I didn't think there would be enough pedal travel left to provide a safety margin.
Does this make sense?
#11
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Wings Engineering Pedal is excellent. Craftsmanship and fit are perfect. I've tried both standard and extra-wide flavors, and prefer the extra-wide (I'm 6', 10 1/2 shoe size, if that matters...)
This bolts right on to existing gas pedal, with no drilling, etc... Easy on, easy off. Price is around $100. Highly recommend it!
This bolts right on to existing gas pedal, with no drilling, etc... Easy on, easy off. Price is around $100. Highly recommend it!
#13
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Originally posted by Anir:
<STRONG>I bet heel-and-toeing is a bit easier with a unit like this one made by AP Racing.
</STRONG>
<STRONG>I bet heel-and-toeing is a bit easier with a unit like this one made by AP Racing.
</STRONG>
Very cool stuff. I had a set up just like this (only not made by AP) in my old race car. Best brake feel of any car I've ever driven. The brake pedal only moves about 1/4 inch and is as hard as stepping on concrete. You modulate the brakes not by the distance the pedal moves, but by the amount of pressure you exert (a lot). Twin master cylinders--one for the front brakes, and one for the rear, with a screw adjuster between to alter bias. Very cool stuff. Looks pricey.
#14
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John Huang, I have mine set up so that when I really nail brakes, heel-&-toe works fine. In moderate driving, isn't quite as good but still far better than stock.
Even during track driving when pedal gets spogy due to fluid boing, I have never run out of brake travel. I also tried opening a bleed port on a front caliper when I was intially adjusting the height to make sure I didn't run out of pedal movement - nailing the brakes then still resulted in travel left over (pedal did NOT hit floor).
Try it!
I do have a '95 with vacuum brakes; don't you have hydraulic-assisted brakes on your C2S? I would think you have less of a problem.
Even during track driving when pedal gets spogy due to fluid boing, I have never run out of brake travel. I also tried opening a bleed port on a front caliper when I was intially adjusting the height to make sure I didn't run out of pedal movement - nailing the brakes then still resulted in travel left over (pedal did NOT hit floor).
Try it!
I do have a '95 with vacuum brakes; don't you have hydraulic-assisted brakes on your C2S? I would think you have less of a problem.
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Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful responses. I'll try adjusting the pedals first, and I'll probably go with a Wings pedal, too.
Ray - you mentioned a shop manual that tells how to do this. Since I just got my car, I haven't bought a manual yet - would you please recommend what to buy and perhaps where to buy it?
The lag in RPM fall-off is taking some getting used to, but I'm slowly working it out - it will just take practice. Again, if anyone knows of a chip modification that will get rid of this, please let me know.
Will
Ray - you mentioned a shop manual that tells how to do this. Since I just got my car, I haven't bought a manual yet - would you please recommend what to buy and perhaps where to buy it?
The lag in RPM fall-off is taking some getting used to, but I'm slowly working it out - it will just take practice. Again, if anyone knows of a chip modification that will get rid of this, please let me know.
Will